Tamiya TB-Evolution III
07-02-2003, 09:41 AM
#2761
Movie
Where: Hobby People, Camarillo, Freedom Park, CA
When: Last Saturday
Class: Advance Stock
Driver: Eeyan
TQ: yes!
Win: 2nd almost got 1st.
Car: Evo 3
Click Here!
When: Last Saturday
Class: Advance Stock
Driver: Eeyan
TQ: yes!
Win: 2nd almost got 1st.
Car: Evo 3
Click Here!
07-02-2003, 10:50 AM
#2762
Originally posted by Difuser
I'll state the reply from Keith a little different it takes 2-3 min not 10-15 like the E1-2.
It is very similar to the original TB-01 now 3 screws as opposed to 4 screws
I'll state the reply from Keith a little different it takes 2-3 min not 10-15 like the E1-2.
It is very similar to the original TB-01 now 3 screws as opposed to 4 screws
07-02-2003, 11:55 AM
#2763
As far as usage the car is way easier to work on as far as laptimes the E2 doesn't stand a chance.
The 1-way issue I don't know if others are still having them but I have stripped 1 gears now in 5 weekends of racing. I don't know if the new carbon on the S EVO is going to fix it or not I'll be able to run mine this weekend.
Try one you should be very happy there was alot of leftover Ti anfter I finished building last night. Alot more than the usual 1-2 screws leftover that Tamiya usually has.
The 1-way issue I don't know if others are still having them but I have stripped 1 gears now in 5 weekends of racing. I don't know if the new carbon on the S EVO is going to fix it or not I'll be able to run mine this weekend.
Try one you should be very happy there was alot of leftover Ti anfter I finished building last night. Alot more than the usual 1-2 screws leftover that Tamiya usually has.
07-02-2003, 12:22 PM
#2764
yep!
The extra titanium screws were a blessing
Evo S was a Great kit to build. Lot of extra gears in the kit too. I wonder why..hehehe
Evo S was a Great kit to build. Lot of extra gears in the kit too. I wonder why..hehehe
07-02-2003, 12:31 PM
#2765
Tech Regular
evo 3s
...and don't forget all those red toe-in blocks.
07-02-2003, 01:16 PM
#2766
i wish that kit came in Ti colour, IMO the red makes it look nasty. but thats my oppion, i'm glad you guys like it!
Difuser- i don't strip any gears but my driveline is easy to bind up if i tighten the gear box screws, and if i don't tighten them the front clicks under braking. but even when it clicks it doesn't break any teeth. its more of a gearbox issue than a one way issue for me. that pinion bearing in the gearbox doesn't sit in there tight aswell. i'm going to invest in the square gearboxs at somestage hopefully that will solve the problem.
anybody know where to buy the kai kit stuff?
also what is the best brand of Ti screws to deck my car out with? the tamiya ones are to soft.
Difuser- i don't strip any gears but my driveline is easy to bind up if i tighten the gear box screws, and if i don't tighten them the front clicks under braking. but even when it clicks it doesn't break any teeth. its more of a gearbox issue than a one way issue for me. that pinion bearing in the gearbox doesn't sit in there tight aswell. i'm going to invest in the square gearboxs at somestage hopefully that will solve the problem.
anybody know where to buy the kai kit stuff?
also what is the best brand of Ti screws to deck my car out with? the tamiya ones are to soft.
07-02-2003, 01:46 PM
#2769
Originally posted by rocketron
its a VERY small modification to use Associated gears and they will not break or bind up
its a VERY small modification to use Associated gears and they will not break or bind up
Originally posted by DOTMAN
GT, I agree with you. I think the red looks crappy
GT, I agree with you. I think the red looks crappy
07-02-2003, 02:22 PM
#2770
Ok I'll try to keep this short and striaght forward
All you'll need is two of the standard Assoc Bevel Gears for there box. You do need to change both because of final drive ratio. Which after the modification chg's from 2.6 to 2.667.
On a diff the assoc gear and balls are slightly narrower. so what you'll want to do is . . . . On the diff half that holds the second inter bearing use a dremel (?) and carefully make the current bearing hold just slightly deeper - not very much. If you don't do this enough you'll not be able to tighten the diff correctly.
On the front one way - all that is needed is to enlarge the hole to just fit on the one way unit. The current ball holes on the assoc gear line up perfectly to screw the gear on. I had made a graphite backing plate and am still using it.
The pinion you'll use is the standard tamiya one.
The last thing is the assoc gear messes better with the pinion and results in excess for and aft play on the drive shaft. I would suggest a spacer that is placed between the bearing on the rear box and the spur gear. This will tend to push the shaft forward to increase the "flat" spot surface area used in the pinion.
Hope this helps
The Assoc gears are $7 US each - the white material ones are stronger than the black material gears. Either work however.
All you'll need is two of the standard Assoc Bevel Gears for there box. You do need to change both because of final drive ratio. Which after the modification chg's from 2.6 to 2.667.
On a diff the assoc gear and balls are slightly narrower. so what you'll want to do is . . . . On the diff half that holds the second inter bearing use a dremel (?) and carefully make the current bearing hold just slightly deeper - not very much. If you don't do this enough you'll not be able to tighten the diff correctly.
On the front one way - all that is needed is to enlarge the hole to just fit on the one way unit. The current ball holes on the assoc gear line up perfectly to screw the gear on. I had made a graphite backing plate and am still using it.
The pinion you'll use is the standard tamiya one.
The last thing is the assoc gear messes better with the pinion and results in excess for and aft play on the drive shaft. I would suggest a spacer that is placed between the bearing on the rear box and the spur gear. This will tend to push the shaft forward to increase the "flat" spot surface area used in the pinion.
Hope this helps
The Assoc gears are $7 US each - the white material ones are stronger than the black material gears. Either work however.
07-02-2003, 02:39 PM
#2771
rocketron- Thanks! i'll try that that next time i place a order
07-02-2003, 03:46 PM
#2773
Originally posted by Difuser
Hey Ron I thought the Assoc. gears accept a ball stud shaft as opposed to the Tamiya version which has a flat on the shaft and gear??
Hey Ron I thought the Assoc. gears accept a ball stud shaft as opposed to the Tamiya version which has a flat on the shaft and gear??
07-02-2003, 10:20 PM
#2775
a blue evo3s would be so much better than red...when you guys say Ti color u mean titanium? that would look nice...or the heat sink in the original evo3...blueish black mmmmmmmmmmmmm