Tamiya TB-Evolution III
#2582
Hey...is everybody ignoring the question of pricing for the Surikarn??? 2 people have asked what those who have already purchased have paid. Throw us a bone dudes !!! Hey Izzy...saw your ad...keep going down on that price and I'll buy!!!!! So far it looks like Speedtech has everybody waiting to buy from them. Anybody got a better idea!!!!???
#2583
Originally posted by rtypec
With a chassis looking that nice, you better TQ and win every race you enter for the next three months! haha.
I don't know if/when I'll upgrade mine to EvoS specs or just pick one up but all I can say is that my current race chassis is tired! Countless club race nights, the Reedy Race, TCS with an 8Dub, the KO GP, and tons of practice...my car has got some mileage. What would be better, keep refreshing the car with replacement bits and then upgrade to EvoS spec (with all the blue bits) or just acquire a new ride?
With a chassis looking that nice, you better TQ and win every race you enter for the next three months! haha.
I don't know if/when I'll upgrade mine to EvoS specs or just pick one up but all I can say is that my current race chassis is tired! Countless club race nights, the Reedy Race, TCS with an 8Dub, the KO GP, and tons of practice...my car has got some mileage. What would be better, keep refreshing the car with replacement bits and then upgrade to EvoS spec (with all the blue bits) or just acquire a new ride?
sounds crazy, but I would do it, if I have the cash! I'm just a died-hard Tamiya fan!!!
#2584
Originally posted by TRF-Powered
Pick up S.EvoIII, then upgrade your regular EvoIII to the S. spec with the blue parts... then you will get yourself a "true" tamiya team color! Red and blue! and then, once the Red set-up board is released, you might want to pick that up, so if you have the blue one already, you can lay then down side-by-side, and have your two EvoIII's S. spec setting on top of them.......
sounds crazy, but I would do it, if I have the cash! I'm just a died-hard Tamiya fan!!!
Pick up S.EvoIII, then upgrade your regular EvoIII to the S. spec with the blue parts... then you will get yourself a "true" tamiya team color! Red and blue! and then, once the Red set-up board is released, you might want to pick that up, so if you have the blue one already, you can lay then down side-by-side, and have your two EvoIII's S. spec setting on top of them.......
sounds crazy, but I would do it, if I have the cash! I'm just a died-hard Tamiya fan!!!
But will Tamiya release all the alloy bits in Blue? Rumour was that all the apres will just be the titanium colour.
Tony
#2585
Originally posted by rtypec
With a chassis looking that nice, you better TQ and win every race you enter for the next three months! haha.
With a chassis looking that nice, you better TQ and win every race you enter for the next three months! haha.
Seriously I doubt it, I'm going to use it in Modified class and I'm only starting to run that now.
I don't know if/when I'll upgrade mine to EvoS specs or just pick one up but all I can say is that my current race chassis is tired! Countless club race nights, the Reedy Race, TCS with an 8Dub, the KO GP, and tons of practice...my car has got some mileage. What would be better, keep refreshing the car with replacement bits and then upgrade to EvoS spec (with all the blue bits) or just acquire a new ride?
I'll be running both cars so it will be nice to have them both up to spec.
Tony
#2586
Originally posted by Evoracer
Hey...is everybody ignoring the question of pricing for the Surikarn??? 2 people have asked what those who have already purchased have paid. Throw us a bone dudes !!! Hey Izzy...saw your ad...keep going down on that price and I'll buy!!!!! So far it looks like Speedtech has everybody waiting to buy from them. Anybody got a better idea!!!!???
Hey...is everybody ignoring the question of pricing for the Surikarn??? 2 people have asked what those who have already purchased have paid. Throw us a bone dudes !!! Hey Izzy...saw your ad...keep going down on that price and I'll buy!!!!! So far it looks like Speedtech has everybody waiting to buy from them. Anybody got a better idea!!!!???
Tony
#2587
Tech Regular
If you're in the US...SpeedtechRC is your best bet for the best priced Evo3S. You will need to pre-order it though.
If you're in the Asia-Pacific region....RainBowTen is probably where you'd get your Evo3 from...although it might be worth checking out a few stores in Hong Kong as well.
I got mine from RainbowTen for about US$380 but they had it in stock the day it was released. For me shipping is cheaper from Japan than from the US.
If you're in the Asia-Pacific region....RainBowTen is probably where you'd get your Evo3 from...although it might be worth checking out a few stores in Hong Kong as well.
I got mine from RainbowTen for about US$380 but they had it in stock the day it was released. For me shipping is cheaper from Japan than from the US.
Last edited by itchynads; 06-18-2003 at 07:10 PM.
#2588
Tight Fitting graphite knuckle arm
I'm currently running evo2 using the front knuckle arms for TA04/414/evo3 , the graphite one.
I just finished transferring the bearings and universal shaft from the EVO2 knuckle arms to the graphite 04/evo3 knuckle arms and I noticed that shaft seems to bind. When I spin the rear wheel (rear upright detached from the car) the spin time is markedly longer that the newly assembled graphite front one (also detached from the car)
The bearings are newly cleaned and lubed, I can put them on a dowel and they spin very freely...
Anybody experienced this before? what did you do to fix it? I'm planning to rip the thing apart again and start shaving some materials to line up the two bearings.
I just finished transferring the bearings and universal shaft from the EVO2 knuckle arms to the graphite 04/evo3 knuckle arms and I noticed that shaft seems to bind. When I spin the rear wheel (rear upright detached from the car) the spin time is markedly longer that the newly assembled graphite front one (also detached from the car)
The bearings are newly cleaned and lubed, I can put them on a dowel and they spin very freely...
Anybody experienced this before? what did you do to fix it? I'm planning to rip the thing apart again and start shaving some materials to line up the two bearings.
#2589
Re: Tight Fitting graphite knuckle arm
Originally posted by rough512
I'm currently running evo2 using the front knuckle arms for TA04/414/evo3 , the graphite one.
I just finished transferring the bearings and universal shaft from the EVO2 knuckle arms to the graphite 04/evo3 knuckle arms and I noticed that shaft seems to bind. When I spin the rear wheel (rear upright detached from the car) the spin time is markedly longer that the newly assembled graphite front one (also detached from the car)
The bearings are newly cleaned and lubed, I can put them on a dowel and they spin very freely...
Anybody experienced this before? what did you do to fix it? I'm planning to rip the thing apart again and start shaving some materials to line up the two bearings.
I'm currently running evo2 using the front knuckle arms for TA04/414/evo3 , the graphite one.
I just finished transferring the bearings and universal shaft from the EVO2 knuckle arms to the graphite 04/evo3 knuckle arms and I noticed that shaft seems to bind. When I spin the rear wheel (rear upright detached from the car) the spin time is markedly longer that the newly assembled graphite front one (also detached from the car)
The bearings are newly cleaned and lubed, I can put them on a dowel and they spin very freely...
Anybody experienced this before? what did you do to fix it? I'm planning to rip the thing apart again and start shaving some materials to line up the two bearings.
this reminded me of a question i've been meaning to ask.
i use to skateboard when i was younger and in the skateboard wheels we used a spacer inbetween the 2 bearings, this way you could tighten up the wheel nut as tight as you can and it wouldn't bind. is there a spacer like this i could use on my evo?
#2590
Re: Re: Tight Fitting graphite knuckle arm
Originally posted by GTMilenko
the wheel nut isn't done up to tight is it?
this reminded me of a question i've been meaning to ask.
i use to skateboard when i was younger and in the skateboard wheels we used a spacer inbetween the 2 bearings, this way you could tighten up the wheel nut as tight as you can and it wouldn't bind. is there a spacer like this i could use on my evo?
the wheel nut isn't done up to tight is it?
this reminded me of a question i've been meaning to ask.
i use to skateboard when i was younger and in the skateboard wheels we used a spacer inbetween the 2 bearings, this way you could tighten up the wheel nut as tight as you can and it wouldn't bind. is there a spacer like this i could use on my evo?
No I don't think this is a problem with the wheel nut being too tight, there's even free play on axle. I use the aluminum Hex hub with the small pin so it's not possible to overtighten and bind the axle.
The old plastic TA04 knuckle arms are okay, the wheel spins freely. I wish the same is true with the graphite one
#2591
Re: Re: Re: Tight Fitting graphite knuckle arm
Originally posted by rough512
Thanks,
No I don't think this is a problem with the wheel nut being too tight, there's even free play on axle. I use the aluminum Hex hub with the small pin so it's not possible to overtighten and bind the axle.
The old plastic TA04 knuckle arms are okay, the wheel spins freely. I wish the same is true with the graphite one
Thanks,
No I don't think this is a problem with the wheel nut being too tight, there's even free play on axle. I use the aluminum Hex hub with the small pin so it's not possible to overtighten and bind the axle.
The old plastic TA04 knuckle arms are okay, the wheel spins freely. I wish the same is true with the graphite one
btw thats one mean afro! is it real? is it you? its wicked!
#2592
Re: Re: Re: Re: Tight Fitting graphite knuckle arm
Originally posted by GTMilenko
hmmm and both the back ones are the same?
btw thats one mean afro! is it real? is it you? its wicked!
hmmm and both the back ones are the same?
btw thats one mean afro! is it real? is it you? its wicked!
That's not me in the avatar, but my friends swear I look like it close enough (except for the hair)...
#2593
lol, yeah you'd take up half the drivers stand with hair like that! but its awsome.
anyway
sorry my mistake,i ment the front ones not the back.
i ment to say is the front left upright the same as the right? are they both giving you trouble?
anyway
sorry my mistake,i ment the front ones not the back.
i ment to say is the front left upright the same as the right? are they both giving you trouble?
#2594
Originally posted by GTMilenko
lol, yeah you'd take up half the drivers stand with hair like that! but its awsome.
anyway
sorry my mistake,i ment the front ones not the back.
i ment to say is the front left upright the same as the right? are they both giving you trouble?
lol, yeah you'd take up half the drivers stand with hair like that! but its awsome.
anyway
sorry my mistake,i ment the front ones not the back.
i ment to say is the front left upright the same as the right? are they both giving you trouble?
Yes both front uprights are tight. I already tried running them off a dremel with an outrdrive on the chuck. I think it freed up a bit but I'm not sure which got worn, the axle or the bearing
#2595
Tech Apprentice
evo 3 gearing
what is the gearing for a stock motors in a evo 3.