Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

then who got first

dirtbikekid2

iTrader: (18)

Heck I don't think anybody out there had a faster truggy than Gene, his Matrix TR was balistic, clearing the triples with ease and blitzing the whoops!! Thanks Gene and Andy for sponsoring a great race!!!

What are the mandatory hopup parts for the matrix FRE buggy and truggy, thanks!!!

Machine's R/C H

Xray's Jason Branham TQ'd and won. He got 2 great starts in round 1 and 2 off the gate starts and had the dusty track figured out. I TQ'd the 4th round in buggy and truggy, and Andy also had fast lap times, but it just was not our weekend. In practice, my truck and buggy were both dialed, but then the track blew out and got dusty. I struggled the 1st 2 rounds, but then got it down.

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

what factory drivers were there??
was it a good turn out??

losi8ight

iTrader: (1)

I race alot with Jason Branham he lives about 4 hours away from me. He comes down to my lhs's track sometimes and our guys from our lhs go to his lhs's track alot to. We and a few other guys always talk. He's a cool guy.

Machine's R/C H

There was about 155 entries. Not bad for a holiday weekend. There were factory drivers from CEN, Xray, Losi, OCM, and Kyosho. The trophys were awesome as usual. I think there was 30 Pro Trucks and 45 Pro Buggies. Plus open truck, buggy, and MT.

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

wow thats great for the 1st annual and like you said it was a holiday weekend
which losi drivers were there?

dirtbikekid2

iTrader: (18)

Losi drivers were Quincy Hughes,Tye Love and R.J Scadden

Cain

iTrader: (294)

So how did CEN do in MT?

Also, I have a question on the CEN GST / Nemesis, who should I ask?

Also, for that shock oil conversion chart that states what the CPS rating of the various WT oils out there (AE, Trinity, etc), how valid is that when trying to match up with what is posted on the the setup sheets? I believe the setup sheet I am looking at says 600 CPS and 650CPS (rear, front respectiviely), which is around 40W or more for AE oil?

Just trying to solve this front bounce issue.

MtDrew

I am new to the CEN group as well. Although I am just a temp LOL. I am testing out the TR FTE that a rep and friend of mine was nice enough to loan me for a couple of weeks. I am used to driving a mugen 5T and I do pretty decent with it also in the short time that I have had it. So this truck already has the bar set high for me

But I am currently working to get this truck running for practice tomorrow. I found that my Dace 17mm adapters from my 5T will fit so I plan to use those over the 23mm ones. Are there any other things on this truck that I might be able to carry over if needed or if I wish to try out?

He was not to sure about the current set up,all he could remember is that he has #1/60wt in the front shocks. #2 in the rear,but he was unsure about the oil. 15,000 in the center diff but he couldnt remember what was in the front and rear. He thinks it was 7 and 5. But he does have genes diff pins in there. But they are not the hardened ones. I plan to try both that and the LSD style during this time. It seems like my stock 5T body or my JC 5T body will fit this truck once I put new holes in for the posts so that is also nice.

I have also been talking to another rep from california,Josh. He has given me some tips as far as shock oils and diff. Are there any other things I should know,or try out? I do worry somewhat because it seems that I like my setups to be totally different then most others. Example is like on the 5T. Many around here are running the 2.75 or 3 toe block,and a few of them are running those blocks with the extra -1 anti squat. Myself,I tried those and hated it. I put on the 2.25 block and it ran great. The same for diff oils. My truck has always pushed,or more like plowed the front end from the middle on out of a corner. 7/10/3 is my most recent before sunday and the problem was still there. That is the normal diff setup around here,maybe a few with lower numbers like 5/7/3. But sunday I tried 10/10/3 and the front was pulling more then before,not good enough but better. So it seems like I am a oddball when it comes to these things. So any kind of help to point me in the right direction with this truck would be great.

But I will know more about what areas I have problems after tomorrow.

MtDrew

Wow,after not even a night. I might have to change my mind. This center diff is giving me some major problems. Once I got the screws out. It basicly popped right out and now it doesnt want to go back in without something cracking. What is the deal with all of this? Is there a trick to getting all this back in without any hassle?

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

attach the 4 bolts from under the truck, this holds the diff and mounts on their spacers and to the chaisis, and then do the top half with the braces and brake posts, you can't do it all at once there are too many things to line up, so you have to do it in two steps, another trick I found was to put some AE black grease in the little brake cams, and this will hold them onto their posts so you dont have to struggle as much trying to line them up and keep them on the posts while trying to drop them into place, its kind of tricky the first time, but once you figure outa method its not bad,

also there is a truggy specific thread here,

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=141666

you might find more answers to any more questions youve got in there

for set up, I also tend to have weird different set ups too, and can't simply copy the 'pro' guys set ups, so here is what I use, I'm pretty happy with it, it lets me rotate around corners good, but isn't loose

MtDrew

Well got it all back together. My rep was right and that I had the bulkheads on wrong,just moved them around and we are good. My ninja motor doesnt fit with both the disks on so I had to remove one for the rear. So now there is just one brake disk for the rear. But as for the center diff mounts. Just a dab of tire glue helped keep those things in place so I could get the screws in from the bottom. Went much smoother!!!

I will save that other thread and keep an eye on that as I will with this.

That setup you have there. Do I see this right...80k in the front??

I dont have any extra springs other then the greens. I do have some RMV progressive blue springs I could try,but those are soft so a thicker oil might be needed. I do have 50,55,60wt on me from my revo days LOL.

I thought I saw somewhere that you can add the mugen shocks to this truck. That would help me out because I do have different springs for that which might help me test better.

jlo8864

iTrader: (14)

mtdrew- if you are talking about the setup for the truck, start with 60wt up front and 40wt in the rear. in your diffs use 80wt gear oil up front if you are going with lsd or 7000 with gene's diff pins, 15000 in center if your running a 28 or 10000 with a 21. in the rear go with 5000. i wish you could have seen gene's truck at the CEN race, his truck looked awsome, just had some bad luck.

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

ya the 80 wt in the front is standard gear oil, for MX bikes or what ever, you can get it at an auto parts place, I know I got it at Canadian Tire in canada so I dont know what store would be the same in the US,

the green springs will probally be fine front and rear, that set up evolved from a different one where I had blue front and green rear, and then I wanted more rear traction on the back so put the blue there too, I probally could have went green front and got the same result more or less,

also the Mugen springs fit the CEN shocks, so if you are familiar with them you can use them, I'm not sure how they compare to the CEN spring rates thgouh, other than that I'm sure you can make any set of shocks fit the truck with a little work, but I have heard of someone running the mugen stuff on it, not sure what all was involved thgouh,