stueys

An excellent project and great looking car :-)

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

stormridersp

Amazing!

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

I rewired the electronics on my rear-motor XV-01 today. The ESC I was using before didn't live up to my expectations, and it was also just large enough that I had to use a smaller (and more expensive) 4-channel receiver when I only needed 2 channels.



The new ESC works better, and is also a little smaller so I can use the same 2-channel receiver I have in most of my other vehicles. It also supports sensored motors in case I ever decide to try one in this vehicle, though I honestly don't see much point to it.

EB Racer

iTrader: (1)

Great build. I did a similar build on an M06. By configuring the long wheelbase and adding the tl01 long suspension arms plus a few other items to make the drive train work properly. This allowed for the Porsche 911 gt2 body set to have a rear drive and accurate WB. Sorry no pics, but maybe it will get others to reconfigure other chassis'.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Apparently some of my pictures aren't working even with the "Photobucket Embed Fix" plugin for Firefox. I'll try to get them restored as soon as I can, but I have over a thousand RC photos so it's a very tedious effort.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

The image links are fixed! I finally got around to writing a little program that will swap the the old Photobucket image links with the new Imgur image links -- which took me weeks to compile into a spreadsheet, but oh man it's going to save me a lot of time copying-and-pasting.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Finally I get the whole story to know. Awesome idea to make a real Porsche rc car. Would be great to have a real RR-race series.
A shame that there is no video
In hindsight I would say 30000cst in the rear diff was much to thick...

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, now I'm running a ball diff in rear and a spool in front. But the reason I had such thick oil in the rear diff originally was because it was a RWD car, so I needed the rear diff to avoid wasting power. It works much better as a 4WD touring car.

If you want a RWD touring car, Yokomo makes one now. It's based on a mid-rear buggy design, so it's already balanced for RWD use. I will say, though, that I tried a different platform that allowed me to build a mid-rear-motor RWD touring car, and it was very hard to drive even with a cheap brushed motor. Touring cars really need all four tires to provide acceleration and braking; the tires are just too small to work well with only two of them connected to the motor.

EB Racer

iTrader: (1)

Here's a pic of that build:
It does need a 0 offset front and 9mm offset rear wheel set up. And the WB is just right. I can do a detailed write up if anyone else wants to do a similar build.

Looking forward to driving this.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Go for it. Forums never suffered from having too much information.

I actually considered getting a M-06 when I was planning this build, but I wanted to be able to run standard 1:10-scale bodies without chopping the chassis to bits, and since I already had a XV-01 it was less expensive to just get a second one, because I could share the same stash of spare parts between them.

I now have 5 XV-01s, 4 runners and one roller.

TENCHO

I have an M06, that I would love to convert to 1/10. Could you provide the Tamiya Part numbers for all the parts you used, (except the shocks) I just need the TL-01 long arms, and the hubs...whichever ones you used....

I have the same Porsche Body that I'd love to use, as EB Racer did.

EB Racer

iTrader: (1)

So for the m06, use the following parts, I can pull numbers later and more detail to follow. Kids activities are getting in the way of my fun.

Suspension arms are from any Tamiya sedan using short reversible arms.
44 mm universal setup for the rear
The inner upper arms needed to be attached to a point further out on the chassis. For the rear, I used the attachment point on the shock tower mount. That then needs a long ball connector to screw into the plastic below. Also, think about options to add spacers below for roll center adjustment
The front uses the original ball connector for the roll center, but will use a long turnbuckle to make it work.

All other parts are typical parts to finish the build.

The wheels are +3 and +9 frt and rear. I used a 5mm wheel hex, but the front is too wide for the body by about 1-2 mm so I'll install a 4mm hex and that should do the trick.

Here's the hard part. You need to remove material where the arms attach to the chassis. I cut enough material so that the arms attach snugly with no slop. I retained them with the 32mm suspension arm screw that is from the m03. I'll provide some detail pics to show how the arms attach and which side to shave.

For the front shock tower, I used an m05 carbon fiber version, to lower the mounting position for the overall length. The mounting holes needed to be re drilled. I used the m06 carbon tower as a template to get it right. I got close, but you will find that the part that the tower mounts to requires some filing to get the parts to fit. Your drilling might be cleaner and not require the filing, but use a little fabrication magic to get the small details sorted out.

Again, a couple pics will help.

That's about all of the idiosyncrasies of the build. I hope I didn't scare anyone off. Using tl01 arms will make the build easier, but the arms will not allow the handling no that I think I'll get from the newer sedan arms.

EBR

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Yep, this definitely needs a build thread of its own, complete with close-up pictures of the mods you made like mounting the A-arms to the shock towers.

JD Skyline

Great work.... But can't wait for a running video....just see how it handles on asphalt..