240LikesMotiv RC
02-13-2019, 04:00 PM - Wikipost
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05-25-2017, 02:44 AM
#646
Motor smoked: my fault, plugged an esc in backwards. Tried to plug back in properly to see if he esc fried. Forgot to change capacitor before doing this (2nd mistake). Upon plugging battery back in properly the motor smoked right away. Anything worth salvadging likely? Wonder if I just need a new stator, if it damaged rotor etc? Anyone experience this? Thx in advance, am bummed as this was one of my best motors....ever
Sorry to hear this. Unless someone else can chime in here and provide some valuable input by this afternoon, I can ask Paul what he thinks. I would think you'll probably be fine just replacing the Stator, but I am really not sure.
05-25-2017, 09:46 AM
#647
I can't see how any of that would damage the rotor. So I'm guessing the rotor will be just fine. The stator is obviously shot. I don't think we can trust the sensor board after this, although I have no idea if reverse polarity can bleed onto the low current side of the ESC boards. It is possible the sensor board is OK, but they're not that expensive and how could we ever trust it again?
I say get a new motor (sorry) and pull the rotor for a rainy day. Maybe save the bearings too.
I say get a new motor (sorry) and pull the rotor for a rainy day. Maybe save the bearings too.
05-25-2017, 10:52 AM
#648
Yeah, Paul was nice enough to look at the motor for me but am inclined to do this. I wonder if these rotors work in other motors btw. They are far superior in strength than anything I have in my older motors of other brands
I can't see how any of that would damage the rotor. So I'm guessing the rotor will be just fine. The stator is obviously shot. I don't think we can trust the sensor board after this, although I have no idea if reverse polarity can bleed onto the low current side of the ESC boards. It is possible the sensor board is OK, but they're not that expensive and how could we ever trust it again?
I say get a new motor (sorry) and pull the rotor for a rainy day. Maybe save the bearings too.
I say get a new motor (sorry) and pull the rotor for a rainy day. Maybe save the bearings too.
05-25-2017, 12:24 PM
#649
06-02-2017, 12:43 PM
#651
I recently picked up a 13.5 and a 17.5 and the 13.5 is amazing. Numbers are perfect across the board. Plenty of punch and stays strong the whole heat. We have a club day where people come out with non legal motors and I pull away from them and only at 43 on the timing and coming off at 120 on the temps. I love it so much I'm trying to track one down for my stadium.
The 17.5 is another story. Serious separation in numbers. Raising the timing beyond 41 and the motor starts making an awful racket that I don't trust so I keep it at that and only pulling 2.4 amps. It's clearly slower than the other cars on the straight and by the end of the race I'm barely clearing the doubles. Comes off at around 140. Did I get a dud?
Both motors have fans on them.
The 17.5 is another story. Serious separation in numbers. Raising the timing beyond 41 and the motor starts making an awful racket that I don't trust so I keep it at that and only pulling 2.4 amps. It's clearly slower than the other cars on the straight and by the end of the race I'm barely clearing the doubles. Comes off at around 140. Did I get a dud?
Both motors have fans on them.
06-03-2017, 02:31 AM
#652
I recently picked up a 13.5 and a 17.5 and the 13.5 is amazing. Numbers are perfect across the board. Plenty of punch and stays strong the whole heat. We have a club day where people come out with non legal motors and I pull away from them and only at 43 on the timing and coming off at 120 on the temps. I love it so much I'm trying to track one down for my stadium.
The 17.5 is another story. Serious separation in numbers. Raising the timing beyond 41 and the motor starts making an awful racket that I don't trust so I keep it at that and only pulling 2.4 amps. It's clearly slower than the other cars on the straight and by the end of the race I'm barely clearing the doubles. Comes off at around 140. Did I get a dud?
Both motors have fans on them.
The 17.5 is another story. Serious separation in numbers. Raising the timing beyond 41 and the motor starts making an awful racket that I don't trust so I keep it at that and only pulling 2.4 amps. It's clearly slower than the other cars on the straight and by the end of the race I'm barely clearing the doubles. Comes off at around 140. Did I get a dud?
Both motors have fans on them.
06-03-2017, 09:38 AM
#654
I realize this is Motiv motor thread but, I was wondering if anyone could tell me at what track temp is the new traction compound (Gravity 4) works best.
Thanks
Thanks
06-07-2017, 04:17 AM
#655
Been playing with the 25.5 tune a bit in F1. I shimmed the rotor as close to the sensor board as possible and tuned for my normal timing setting 38* internal. On the analyzer I noticed a higher kv, slightly less amp draw, and same timing with nice tight tolerances from A-B-C as before. On track temps with a fan went from 130 on average after a race to around 100-115. Same good power as well.
Seems like they want to be nice and close to the sensor as opposed to some motors that like to be more aligned with the magnetic center.
Going to try the same testing, stock tune versus this method in 17.5 1/12 and 25.5 VTA.
Seems like they want to be nice and close to the sensor as opposed to some motors that like to be more aligned with the magnetic center.
Going to try the same testing, stock tune versus this method in 17.5 1/12 and 25.5 VTA.
06-07-2017, 11:17 PM
#656
At austintown, I was running at ~85 rollout. Felt pretty good. That was at 46 degrees timing and an s-high rotor
06-08-2017, 02:39 AM
#657
Been playing with the 25.5 tune a bit in F1. I shimmed the rotor as close to the sensor board as possible and tuned for my normal timing setting 38* internal. On the analyzer I noticed a higher kv, slightly less amp draw, and same timing with nice tight tolerances from A-B-C as before. On track temps with a fan went from 130 on average after a race to around 100-115. Same good power as well.
Seems like they want to be nice and close to the sensor as opposed to some motors that like to be more aligned with the magnetic center.
Going to try the same testing, stock tune versus this method in 17.5 1/12 and 25.5 VTA.
Seems like they want to be nice and close to the sensor as opposed to some motors that like to be more aligned with the magnetic center.
Going to try the same testing, stock tune versus this method in 17.5 1/12 and 25.5 VTA.
06-08-2017, 03:23 AM
#658
FWIW...These motors work best if the rotor is shimmed at center the magnetic field
and set 38-42* timing.
Each motor will have a slight variance on where timing should be set to get max power on the dyno.
I too would shim closer to sensors. After looking at dyno data and doing test on track I now center the rotor.
I will post dyno data later.
and set 38-42* timing.
Each motor will have a slight variance on where timing should be set to get max power on the dyno.
I too would shim closer to sensors. After looking at dyno data and doing test on track I now center the rotor.
I will post dyno data later.
06-08-2017, 09:15 AM
#659
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
FWIW...These motors work best if the rotor is shimmed at center the magnetic field
and set 38-42* timing.
Each motor will have a slight variance on where timing should be set to get max power on the dyno.
I too would shim closer to sensors. After looking at dyno data and doing test on track I now center the rotor.
I will post dyno data later.
and set 38-42* timing.
Each motor will have a slight variance on where timing should be set to get max power on the dyno.
I too would shim closer to sensors. After looking at dyno data and doing test on track I now center the rotor.
I will post dyno data later.
I too find myself always wanting to shim close to the sensor but you are right, they are best when allowed to float to the center of the magnetic field.
Looking forward to your dyno info.
06-09-2017, 05:03 AM
#660
Here is a recent dyno of my MC2 17.5.
I have attended 2 races with this motor on CRC Black Carpet, so it is well broken in.
I clean and dyno the motor after each race day and have not seen any power degradation.
The re-shim testing was done last month.
I have attended 2 races with this motor on CRC Black Carpet, so it is well broken in.
I clean and dyno the motor after each race day and have not seen any power degradation.
The re-shim testing was done last month.