Motor question
#1
Motor question
I just bought a Reedy 8T Double. The instruction says 'Every 2 or 3 runs, you should clean out your motor by spraying it with motor cleaner while it is running on an old battery pack. Run the motor for approximately 15 seconds, spraying repeatedly until the run-off is clean and clear...'
Has anyone tried this? Where should I spray the motor? Please help.
Has anyone tried this? Where should I spray the motor? Please help.
#2
Spray it through the sides of the endbell, with the can facing down.
Personally, I disassemble my motors to clean them, using cotton buds soaked in spray.
Once cleaned, re-lube the bearings with oil.
Personally, I disassemble my motors to clean them, using cotton buds soaked in spray.
Once cleaned, re-lube the bearings with oil.
#3
Thankyou sosidge. Would Trinity Buggy Blast spray do? I'm still worried that I might short the circuits if I spray the inside of the motor while it's running.
#4
Tech Initiate
I wouldn't spray the motor while running, the motor spray could burn you seriously if it should ignite. I would spray the motor and spin it by hand to rotate the armature or like Sosidge said take the motor apart and then clean it.
#5
Thankyou SupremeHacker
#6
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
I'd be hesitant to do it while the motor was running too. I've never tried it and dont really know if it would effect anything but arent most motor sprays flamable?
I remove them from the vehicle and hold them endbell down, spray thought the end of the can where the shaft exits (where you put the pinion on to), then through the air vents in the side, and then wash it out at the brush hoods as its easier to get everything out. I do this after every run so I dont disassemble the motor. After the race I'll take it completely apart and clean/oil it. Guess everyone has their method
I remove them from the vehicle and hold them endbell down, spray thought the end of the can where the shaft exits (where you put the pinion on to), then through the air vents in the side, and then wash it out at the brush hoods as its easier to get everything out. I do this after every run so I dont disassemble the motor. After the race I'll take it completely apart and clean/oil it. Guess everyone has their method
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (74)
I've been spraying motors while they run now for years and have never had anything ignite or anything happen. Obviously if the isntructions tell you that's the way to do it, it's not dangerous. You think they would open themselves up to a lawsuit if it was dangerous? I don't think so. Go ahead and get some Buggy Blast and do like the instructions say and you'll be fine.
#9
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Reedy Ti
I've been running Ti's in my xray for about a month now (carpet w/ foams) usually use a 9x2, also have 8x2 and 10x2's.
For springs, I'm using Peak silver. Dyno showed slightly better numbers with silver than with Reedy gold (or are they copper?).
Brushes, Reedy Quasars are great, I've been using Axiom 12%'s they're faster, but hell on the comm.
Timing, kind of depends on the layout. I try to run as much as I can while still making runtime with a few seconds extra. Usually I'm between 12-18 degrees. Right now, about 14-15.
Gearing, hard to help you there since I don't know the track. I'd guess about 3 pinions smaller from how you'd gear a GM3 might be a good starting point, but you should just ask the locals about that.
For springs, I'm using Peak silver. Dyno showed slightly better numbers with silver than with Reedy gold (or are they copper?).
Brushes, Reedy Quasars are great, I've been using Axiom 12%'s they're faster, but hell on the comm.
Timing, kind of depends on the layout. I try to run as much as I can while still making runtime with a few seconds extra. Usually I'm between 12-18 degrees. Right now, about 14-15.
Gearing, hard to help you there since I don't know the track. I'd guess about 3 pinions smaller from how you'd gear a GM3 might be a good starting point, but you should just ask the locals about that.
#11
mr. mr4
reedy copper are sufficient, as well as trinity 14.5oz silver. but i aswell run the peak silver. it feels a little stiffer.
timing - i believe in more timing, especially 10x2 and above for increased performance. i prefer 18-24*
gearing - here on a 116x50 foot carpet track i run a 10x2 at .91-.95 rollout. (21.5-22.5) so a 12x2 i'd run around a 1.01.1 maybe here. gearing like jeff said, is totally depending on ur track situation.
reedy copper are sufficient, as well as trinity 14.5oz silver. but i aswell run the peak silver. it feels a little stiffer.
timing - i believe in more timing, especially 10x2 and above for increased performance. i prefer 18-24*
gearing - here on a 116x50 foot carpet track i run a 10x2 at .91-.95 rollout. (21.5-22.5) so a 12x2 i'd run around a 1.01.1 maybe here. gearing like jeff said, is totally depending on ur track situation.
#12
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
With anything in the area of 10 turns and below, i would suggest truing the comm every 2-3 runs, and replacing the brushes every other true, all depends of course how hard the motor is running. Over here in Australia the temps get quite high, and we also run Mod for 5 minutes so motors get worked over quite hard.
We have had a lot of success with the Fantom line of brushes also. The 321 is very good for anything 10 Turn and below. Reedy brushes etc are virtually not available over here.
We have had a lot of success with the Fantom line of brushes also. The 321 is very good for anything 10 Turn and below. Reedy brushes etc are virtually not available over here.
#14
A cut brush will give more top end, less friction on the comm.