Losi XXL2-E
#1606
Tech Rookie
anyone tried the single servo conversion coz my steering is off as truck pulls to one side even though i tried adjusting trim and servos..
#1607
Tech Master
iTrader: (140)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...pic-heavy.html
#1608
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
With the center diff talk going on I thought I'd remind folks that the Ofna LX center diff (LX1e, LX2e and nitro models) is the same length as the trans. This means you don't need to modify the stock center shafts or try finding others that are the correct length.
Last edited by Overdriven; 01-11-2017 at 04:57 PM.
#1609
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Second reason is it may not be necessary. If you are pulling to one side you may be able to correct it with a good alignment. And by good alignment I mean a total reset and alignment of the entire steering system. Start by flipping the truck over and adjusting the servo trim to center the bellcranks, leave the radio on. Flip the truck back on its wheels and adjust the tie rods to then align the wheels. Pick the truck and put it back down a few times during adjustment to get it right. Once that is done loosen the tiny pain in the butt grub screws on the servo savers. Now adjust the servo trim back to center, move the steering bellcranks back to centered and tighten the grub screws. Make any final adjustments to the trim or tie rods and you should be good to go.
The worst part about the LST steering is the servo savers, they can be weak. But generally a weak servo saver won't favor pulling to one side it just won't center and will pull randomly to either side. The only time a weak saver will favor pulling to one side is with wheel bad alignment. There are also MGT servo savers available for any servo spline that are stronger than LST savers.
#1610
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
I read your suggestion before ordering my conversion kit. I searched quit a bit but was unable to locate any of the diffs mentioned. Maybe because if the defunct Ofna brand. I searched Habo as well but no luck. Would you happen to have a link on where to buy them? Fleabay had a LX1e a month or so ago but it was $160. Really all that is needed is the extended outdrives. If an off brand fits Losi for instance than that would be ideal.
#1611
Tech Initiate
I read your suggestion before ordering my conversion kit. I searched quit a bit but was unable to locate any of the diffs mentioned. Maybe because if the defunct Ofna brand. I searched Habo as well but no luck. Would you happen to have a link on where to buy them? Fleabay had a LX1e a month or so ago but it was $160. Really all that is needed is the extended outdrives. If an off brand fits Losi for instance than that would be ideal.
Spur: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391581212949
Diff: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391569800254
About 45$ total.
#1612
Tech Rookie
I hesitate to recommend the single servo mod for two reasons. First you need to use a high quality servo as you will no longer have a servo saver. The Hitec robot servo in the link above is the same as the Hitec 79xx series and has proven to be reliable in this application without a saver but I'm sure there are others that will survive as well.
Second reason is it may not be necessary. If you are pulling to one side you may be able to correct it with a good alignment. And by good alignment I mean a total reset and alignment of the entire steering system. Start by flipping the truck over and adjusting the servo trim to center the bellcranks, leave the radio on. Flip the truck back on its wheels and adjust the tie rods to then align the wheels. Pick the truck and put it back down a few times during adjustment to get it right. Once that is done loosen the tiny pain in the butt grub screws on the servo savers. Now adjust the servo trim back to center, move the steering bellcranks back to centered and tighten the grub screws. Make any final adjustments to the trim or tie rods and you should be good to go.
The worst part about the LST steering is the servo savers, they can be weak. But generally a weak servo saver won't favor pulling to one side it just won't center and will pull randomly to either side. The only time a weak saver will favor pulling to one side is with wheel bad alignment. There are also MGT servo savers available for any servo spline that are stronger than LST savers.
Second reason is it may not be necessary. If you are pulling to one side you may be able to correct it with a good alignment. And by good alignment I mean a total reset and alignment of the entire steering system. Start by flipping the truck over and adjusting the servo trim to center the bellcranks, leave the radio on. Flip the truck back on its wheels and adjust the tie rods to then align the wheels. Pick the truck and put it back down a few times during adjustment to get it right. Once that is done loosen the tiny pain in the butt grub screws on the servo savers. Now adjust the servo trim back to center, move the steering bellcranks back to centered and tighten the grub screws. Make any final adjustments to the trim or tie rods and you should be good to go.
The worst part about the LST steering is the servo savers, they can be weak. But generally a weak servo saver won't favor pulling to one side it just won't center and will pull randomly to either side. The only time a weak saver will favor pulling to one side is with wheel bad alignment. There are also MGT servo savers available for any servo spline that are stronger than LST savers.
#1613
New video
Finally broke an outdrive. Missed the ramp a few times on 5s hahahahaha
https://youtu.be/xUITF-ZQP1U
https://youtu.be/xUITF-ZQP1U
#1614
Tech Master
iTrader: (140)
Finally broke an outdrive. Missed the ramp a few times on 5s hahahahaha
https://youtu.be/xUITF-ZQP1U
https://youtu.be/xUITF-ZQP1U
#1615
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
I read your suggestion before ordering my conversion kit. I searched quit a bit but was unable to locate any of the diffs mentioned. Maybe because if the defunct Ofna brand. I searched Habo as well but no luck. Would you happen to have a link on where to buy them? Fleabay had a LX1e a month or so ago but it was $160. Really all that is needed is the extended outdrives. If an off brand fits Losi for instance than that would be ideal.
The complete center diff with mount from a LX1e/LX2e used to be about $50 for both when these were still the current model and before whatever happened to Ofna.
I have no idea what diameter the outdrives are and whether they can be used with another diff. That would be ideal as the LX/K series diffs don't have the greatest main cup seal. I've just seen these diffs used in an LST before with no mods to the center shafts so throwing the option out there.
#1616
Tech Initiate
If memory serves it was Trout74 on this thread that used a Losi 8ight center diff on his XXL2E
Might be worth a look
Might be worth a look
#1617
Tech Initiate
#1618
Thanks. I finally bought a new body haha. Kinda like it flying off though haha
#1619
Tech Initiate
Has anyone tried a narrower wheel/tire like the TA rival's? Im looking for the best wheels/tires for allround use but i dont like big heavy wide wheels/tires.
I much prefer the wheels to spin than strain the drive train/gearing.
I much prefer the wheels to spin than strain the drive train/gearing.
#1620
http://www.nitrohouse.com/Diff-6-Gea...it_p_6837.html
The complete center diff with mount from a LX1e/LX2e used to be about $50 for both when these were still the current model and before whatever happened to Ofna.
I have no idea what diameter the outdrives are and whether they can be used with another diff. That would be ideal as the LX/K series diffs don't have the greatest main cup seal. I've just seen these diffs used in an LST before with no mods to the center shafts so throwing the option out there.
The complete center diff with mount from a LX1e/LX2e used to be about $50 for both when these were still the current model and before whatever happened to Ofna.
I have no idea what diameter the outdrives are and whether they can be used with another diff. That would be ideal as the LX/K series diffs don't have the greatest main cup seal. I've just seen these diffs used in an LST before with no mods to the center shafts so throwing the option out there.
1) Muggy: Rear/Front (can't remeber from top of my head) muggy center shaft is longer than stock xxl
2) LST: The drive shaft (to the wheels) from the orig lst fits as a center shaft and is really long. I believe I used this one in my CD conversion or maybe it was too long?
3) XXL Nitro/Gas/Electric: Standard XXL shaft is another length.
I can't remember the exact data but found some older posts regarding this.
Asume I did actually measure them at that point
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12682694-post1.html
I don't know about the ofna diff. I use a hpi diff house (same as savage diffs) and they been holding up to lotsa of torque. I use the same diffs in my two savage xl's with CDs.