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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-19-2015, 11:30 PM
  #961  
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[QUOTE=jf45;14312557]
Originally Posted by Carter Flotron
" The idea is that the .3 diffs have been designed to be freer than the .2 diffs, so in order to get the same feel from your diffs when switching to the newer car you'd go up 2k on diff oils. "

Thanks for your recent posts. Great information.

I have a question on the difference between the .2 and .3 diffs.

By looking at the part numbers the only difference I see is the diff shim TKR5145 changed to TKR5145B in the .3. Do you know if there were other running changes without a part number change?

The reason I ask is that I am building a .3 for next season and have a few back up .2 diffs that I would like to set up with different weight oils for easy set changes but want to make sure the diffs are the same (except for oil weight) for consistency.

Thanks
I'm not absolutely positive what all was changed, but the sun gears definitely received a running change. Maybe Matt or Daniel can comment on this.
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Old 12-20-2015, 06:42 AM
  #962  
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Originally Posted by jf45
I have a question on the difference between the .2 and .3 diffs.

By looking at the part numbers the only difference I see is the diff shim TKR5145 changed to TKR5145B in the .3. Do you know if there were other running changes without a part number change?
Originally Posted by jf45
I'm not absolutely positive what all was changed, but the sun gears definitely received a running change. Maybe Matt or Daniel can comment on this.
Weren't those the re-designed shims a while back because of the wear issue on the original? Most were fine, but some had wear issues that would cause the shim to become concaved, so they released these with a slightly different thickness and different material.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:23 AM
  #963  
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The shims were updated to a hardened version. Another running change is that the gears were made a little thicker than nominal and then machined down so that they would be much more consistent, not too tight or too loose.
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Old 12-20-2015, 06:08 PM
  #964  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
The shims were updated to a hardened version. Another running change is that the gears were made a little thicker than nominal and then machined down so that they would be much more consistent, not too tight or too loose.
So I'm assuming that means if we are running the old internal diff gears, we would need to run lighter oil to achieve the same effect as the new internal gears?
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:23 PM
  #965  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
So I'm assuming that means if we are running the old internal diff gears, we would need to run lighter oil to achieve the same effect as the new internal gears?
That's correct, about ~2k or so. The older gears will operate less predictably though compared to the new gears.
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Carter Flotron
That's correct, about ~2k or so. The older gears will run less consistently though compared to the new gears.
One last question about this...if you have them mixed together, is there a way to visually tell a difference between the two versions?
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
One last question about this...if you have them mixed together, is there a way to visually tell a difference between the two versions?
No problem, I'm here to answer questions Yes there is, the backs of each gear has a more 'shiny' surface as a result of the machining that has been done to them.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:40 PM
  #968  
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good to hear that the new diffs turn smoothly. I bought a tekno center diff for my hobao and I'm not happy with it ! like it would need 2 layer of seals !
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Carter Flotron
No problem, I'm here to answer questions Yes there is, the backs of each gear has a more 'shiny' surface as a result of the machining that has been done to them.
Thanks!!
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:34 PM
  #970  
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On the eb48.3 or eb48sl has any preferred the t8i 1950 or the pro4 hd 1850. Planning on running indoor to small to medium track size. Or medium outdoor....

Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:02 PM
  #971  
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Originally Posted by CJH 22
On the eb48.3 or eb48sl has any preferred the t8i 1950 or the pro4 hd 1850. Planning on running indoor to small to medium track size. Or medium outdoor....

Thanks!
The T8i will be competitive in both places. The Pro4 HD will be lighter, but probably not have quite the rip you'll want for outdoor unless it is a flowing track so you can keep momentum.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CJH 22
On the eb48.3 or eb48sl has any preferred the t8i 1950 or the pro4 hd 1850. Planning on running indoor to small to medium track size. Or medium outdoor....

Thanks!
I know some will disagree with me , but if your running the full weight eb48.3 I wouldn't try and run either. I have not personally run the 1950i , but I know a few have had issues getting a full weight buggy to run cool with that motor on anything larger than a small indoor track. The pro4 hd is the same story .

If you are running a superlight of some sort , the 1950 may be a good choice . Especially if you are trimming weight everywhere you can . But just dropping the 1950i in a full weight buggy isn't going to automatically make it a better indoor buggy.
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:01 AM
  #973  
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Originally Posted by wittyname
I know some will disagree with me , but if your running the full weight eb48.3 I wouldn't try and run either. I have not personally run the 1950i , but I know a few have had issues getting a full weight buggy to run cool with that motor on anything larger than a small indoor track. The pro4 hd is the same story .

If you are running a superlight of some sort , the 1950 may be a good choice . Especially if you are trimming weight everywhere you can . But just dropping the 1950i in a full weight buggy isn't going to automatically make it a better indoor buggy.


Thanks for the info! It's going to be in a eb48sl.3 ....I was contemplating the full scale as a backup for indoor.
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Old 12-24-2015, 04:40 AM
  #974  
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I've been running a t8i 1950 in my full weight eb48.3 on an outdoor track for a few months now.
Power is great, I do run a 50x 50 fan on it all the time. With the fan it finishes a 5000mah 4s pack of hard running at 150 ish degrees. I ran it once without the fan and was 180 plus before the pack was done.
I like smaller motors with fans and I've gotten good at keeping them cool but if your not gonna use a fan go with a bigger motor. I must say it's been very reliable in a full weight buggy just gotta keep it cool
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:37 AM
  #975  
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Has anyone used a airtronics RX-481/482 receiver? I'm curious if it will fit inside the receiver compartment. Seems like it may be close. Thanks
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