Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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#542
Tech Apprentice
thanks for the info
#543
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
There pretty much aren't any negatives with this one. The only upgrade you need is an aluminum servo horn if your servo doesn't come with one.
#544
Tech Regular
I think the most important thing the Tekno brings is the most stout parts that many other mfg fall short on. The arms, c-blocks, spindles and even the shock towers are just built to last and take abuse. This was one of the major reasons I went with Tekno, plus I love their attention to detail in the small things, this buggy will take the abuse very few will with out breaking. I knew this buggy was going to get abused while I learned to drive it and it has taken some serious abuse and only shows some scuffing of the anodizing on the tops of the shock towers! Twice I ran into a concrete wall on a technical part of the track, hit it hard enough folks in the pits commented on what I broke; didn't break a thing but my pride. Last Sunday I was racing three other 1/8th scale and we were all pushing each other pretty hard, I had the misfortune of having a short course truck blow a jump right into my buggy as it launched off the first mogul in a rhythm section, they hit very hard and the only broken was that poor Losi SC bumper mount and one a-arm, my EB48.3 just need to be put back on it's wheels.
Take a look at the instructions to get a feel for what you'll be facing. I would highly suggest buying the MIP metric allen driver set, it will make life much easier and the build go much quicker.
Instruction manual EB48.3-
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...structions.pdf
Allen Driver Set at Amain-
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ip9502/p261254
#545
Tech Initiate
I have been reading that they are very durable. I think I will have to go with this kit. I have been eyeing it up for a while. The instructions seem pretty easy to follow. I do have the MIP Allen wrench sets. They are awesome. I use them for all my heli builds. What other electronics/lubrication should I get for this buggy?
#546
Tech Regular
I gotta say I've had some horrific looking crashes and mid air contact that look like the buggy should have been destroyed only to pull away like nothing happened. Awesome durability.
I've had issues in the past with putting so much time through a car tuning that once I got it rite I wore it out already lol. Not the case with tekno.
I've had issues in the past with putting so much time through a car tuning that once I got it rite I wore it out already lol. Not the case with tekno.
#547
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Since folks have been talking about running universals in the Tekno as of late...I figured now would be a good time to point out that Tekno just released theirs!
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5287-...ebnb48-3-2pcs/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5287-...ebnb48-3-2pcs/
#549
Tech Rookie
Shortening the front link makes the car more stable. Sweepers, off-power, on power, etc. It will land better as well. We have been moving to a shorter front link lately and the results have been great.
Theoretically it gives you less initial steering but more on power steering. What we have found is less twitch and the rear follows the front better around and out of corners.
Start with the front link short (shortest on hub, shortest on tower, middle on tower). Tune the steering with the rear end:
thicker sway bar (more steering everywhere)
more rear toe (more entry steering)
less rear toe (more stability entering, but more steering out of the corner)
Theoretically it gives you less initial steering but more on power steering. What we have found is less twitch and the rear follows the front better around and out of corners.
Start with the front link short (shortest on hub, shortest on tower, middle on tower). Tune the steering with the rear end:
thicker sway bar (more steering everywhere)
more rear toe (more entry steering)
less rear toe (more stability entering, but more steering out of the corner)
Can you be more specific on shortening the front link (Shortest on hub, shortest on the tower, middle on tower)?
As the stock position on the front link was 1/B on the manual, which holes on the tower and hub should I try? And do I need to move the shocks position as well?
Thanks!
#550
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
That is very interesting!
Can you be more specific on shortening the front link (Shortest on hub, shortest on the tower, middle on tower)?
As the stock position on the front link was 1/B on the manual, which holes on the tower and hub should I try? And do I need to move the shocks position as well?
Thanks!
Can you be more specific on shortening the front link (Shortest on hub, shortest on the tower, middle on tower)?
As the stock position on the front link was 1/B on the manual, which holes on the tower and hub should I try? And do I need to move the shocks position as well?
Thanks!
You do not need to move the shock position, that is normally a separate adjustment. Most of us running the current setup (basically the setup that seems to work the best everywhere for starting out) are running the stock shock positions, so F=3/B R=3/A
Hopefully this helps
#551
Tech Rookie
In order to get what they are currently running, you would mount your link on the 5/A holes.
You do not need to move the shock position, that is normally a separate adjustment. Most of us running the current setup (basically the setup that seems to work the best everywhere for starting out) are running the stock shock positions, so F=3/B R=3/A
Hopefully this helps
You do not need to move the shock position, that is normally a separate adjustment. Most of us running the current setup (basically the setup that seems to work the best everywhere for starting out) are running the stock shock positions, so F=3/B R=3/A
Hopefully this helps
If mounting on 5/A holes, is it going to change the camber to zero or even positive?
Do I need to shorten the link itself? The stock length is 24mm.
Thanks!
#552
#553
Tech Rookie
#554
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (48)
While the camber rod length measurements serve as manner in which to build the car in "kit" form, what is important is the actual camber angle.
Measuring the camber angle is easy using a tool like this:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...sa99172/p37306
Common camber angle settings range from -1 to -3 degrees. This leans the top of the tire in. Seldom will you see a positive camber setting for offroad.
Measuring the camber angle is easy using a tool like this:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...sa99172/p37306
Common camber angle settings range from -1 to -3 degrees. This leans the top of the tire in. Seldom will you see a positive camber setting for offroad.
#555