22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost
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06-14-2016, 04:23 PM
#1801
My question on Joes set up is when coming from stock box is it good to make so many changes? Also if I make all those changes on link locations do I need different length links and turnbuckles or will the stock adjust to what is needed? Basically what all is needed to make the change? If I need to make an order it wont be here before my first race Saturday so what adjustments would you recommend till I can order?
06-14-2016, 04:40 PM
#1802
Just looking at the front camber links I feel like if I used Joe's positions I would end up with +camber and have to turn links way in to work it out. Just seems that the link would break threw since the space for stock is only 24mm..
06-14-2016, 04:54 PM
#1803
I run that link position with no problem. I can shorten them enough to get 3-4 degree negative camber without them breaking through.
06-14-2016, 05:24 PM
#1804
Good to know thank you. I'm not sure I want to do a complete set up change since I've seen and tested what I have and my track is 3 hours away. May just do diff change and link position in rear till after my first race..
06-14-2016, 07:13 PM
#1805
print out this setup. http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf
Go over your car and see how different you are compared to it. This setup works amazingly well for me and everyone of my friends who has tried it.
Also keep in mind that the team setups use PT Racing Oils, not AE or TLR. They are significantly thinner. close to 2k thinner on diff fluids. So 7-7-5 PT is closer to 5-5-3 AE.
Go over your car and see how different you are compared to it. This setup works amazingly well for me and everyone of my friends who has tried it.
Also keep in mind that the team setups use PT Racing Oils, not AE or TLR. They are significantly thinner. close to 2k thinner on diff fluids. So 7-7-5 PT is closer to 5-5-3 AE.
06-14-2016, 07:15 PM
#1806
I had the exact same experience racing on a super high bite track this past weekend. Box stock setup, including springs.....car was very loose when I would hit the brakes to enter a turn. Also, once it started to step out, there was very little that could be done to stop it.
I tried lowering rear ride height to 27, reduced droop to 116 / 131, took 1 deg of anti-squat out, and tried 7K center diff.....each change made one at a time. The reduced droop, and anti-squat seemed to have the best effect, but it was still doing it at the end of the day. The next thing that I was going to look at was going to a longer rear camber link.
Aside from the loose rear end off power, I was very happy with the car. I'm very curious to see what others suggest to resolve the problem we were having....
I tried lowering rear ride height to 27, reduced droop to 116 / 131, took 1 deg of anti-squat out, and tried 7K center diff.....each change made one at a time. The reduced droop, and anti-squat seemed to have the best effect, but it was still doing it at the end of the day. The next thing that I was going to look at was going to a longer rear camber link.
Aside from the loose rear end off power, I was very happy with the car. I'm very curious to see what others suggest to resolve the problem we were having....
print out this setup. http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf
Go over your car and see how different you are compared to it. This setup works amazingly well for me and everyone of my friends who has tried it.
Also keep in mind that the team setups use PT Racing Oils, not AE or TLR. They are significantly thinner. close to 2k thinner on diff fluids. So 7-7-5 PT is closer to 5-5-3 AE.
Go over your car and see how different you are compared to it. This setup works amazingly well for me and everyone of my friends who has tried it.
Also keep in mind that the team setups use PT Racing Oils, not AE or TLR. They are significantly thinner. close to 2k thinner on diff fluids. So 7-7-5 PT is closer to 5-5-3 AE.
06-14-2016, 07:23 PM
#1807
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I run Joe's setup and, for me, to get the proper camber up front, I feel my links are about bottomed out. For a single link, I would tighten one end as tight as I could get it without pushing thru and then do the other side of the link. That way, both ends of the link bottom out at the same time.
06-14-2016, 07:35 PM
#1808
06-15-2016, 06:13 AM
#1811
Cliff Notes:
if you're not running stock camber links and camber settings, ignore the length measurements
if you're running anything OTHER than stock links, use a camber gauge and measure accordingly.
One note, always measure your front camber with your radio and car turned on and wheels centered.
06-15-2016, 06:33 AM
#1812
I haven't run this car on high grip, but I would try the following:
If your car is getting loose under braking WHILE GOING STRAIGHT, then I wouldn't touch any camber links. This is likely a weight transfer issue. Stiffen up the front (heavier oil and thicker spring). We have all switched from kit springs (black) to Pinks, which are one step stiffer. I would definitely do that and consider Green too if the grip is high enough.
If your car is getting loose in the middle of the turn when you hit the brakes, then I would also do the front spring and oil change, but I would also go up in diff oils in all 3 diffs. I would also consider leaning the rear shocks down more (go in one hole on the tower). You'll give up forward bite but gain side bite. If grip is high enough, the forward bite loss is not an issue.
You can also play with thicker sway bars on high grip surfaces too. Make that your last thing to try after you feel you got close.
So try the following in this order
harder front spring (pink or green)
thicker front shock oil (50sct thicker to start, then adjust after driving)
thicker diff oils (maybe 10-10-7 if grip is really high)
lay the rear shocks down some
If you do all of these things and still find yourself struggling, THEN we need to look at roll centers.
If your car is getting loose under braking WHILE GOING STRAIGHT, then I wouldn't touch any camber links. This is likely a weight transfer issue. Stiffen up the front (heavier oil and thicker spring). We have all switched from kit springs (black) to Pinks, which are one step stiffer. I would definitely do that and consider Green too if the grip is high enough.
If your car is getting loose in the middle of the turn when you hit the brakes, then I would also do the front spring and oil change, but I would also go up in diff oils in all 3 diffs. I would also consider leaning the rear shocks down more (go in one hole on the tower). You'll give up forward bite but gain side bite. If grip is high enough, the forward bite loss is not an issue.
You can also play with thicker sway bars on high grip surfaces too. Make that your last thing to try after you feel you got close.
So try the following in this order
harder front spring (pink or green)
thicker front shock oil (50sct thicker to start, then adjust after driving)
thicker diff oils (maybe 10-10-7 if grip is really high)
lay the rear shocks down some
If you do all of these things and still find yourself struggling, THEN we need to look at roll centers.
06-15-2016, 11:17 AM
#1813
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
The length in the manual is the length required for you to get the desired -2 or -3 degrees camber (I can't remember off the top of my head) for the stock camber locations. Unless you're running those stock locations and camber settings, ignore that number. Put the links in the proper place and use a camber gauge to measure your camber.
Cliff Notes:
if you're not running stock camber links and camber settings, ignore the length measurements
if you're running anything OTHER than stock links, use a camber gauge and measure accordingly.
One note, always measure your front camber with your radio and car turned on and wheels centered.
Cliff Notes:
if you're not running stock camber links and camber settings, ignore the length measurements
if you're running anything OTHER than stock links, use a camber gauge and measure accordingly.
One note, always measure your front camber with your radio and car turned on and wheels centered.
06-15-2016, 02:21 PM
#1815
I haven't run this car on high grip, but I would try the following:
If your car is getting loose under braking WHILE GOING STRAIGHT, then I wouldn't touch any camber links. This is likely a weight transfer issue. Stiffen up the front (heavier oil and thicker spring). We have all switched from kit springs (black) to Pinks, which are one step stiffer. I would definitely do that and consider Green too if the grip is high enough.
If your car is getting loose in the middle of the turn when you hit the brakes, then I would also do the front spring and oil change, but I would also go up in diff oils in all 3 diffs. I would also consider leaning the rear shocks down more (go in one hole on the tower). You'll give up forward bite but gain side bite. If grip is high enough, the forward bite loss is not an issue.
You can also play with thicker sway bars on high grip surfaces too. Make that your last thing to try after you feel you got close.
So try the following in this order
harder front spring (pink or green)
thicker front shock oil (50sct thicker to start, then adjust after driving)
thicker diff oils (maybe 10-10-7 if grip is really high)
lay the rear shocks down some
If you do all of these things and still find yourself struggling, THEN we need to look at roll centers.
If your car is getting loose under braking WHILE GOING STRAIGHT, then I wouldn't touch any camber links. This is likely a weight transfer issue. Stiffen up the front (heavier oil and thicker spring). We have all switched from kit springs (black) to Pinks, which are one step stiffer. I would definitely do that and consider Green too if the grip is high enough.
If your car is getting loose in the middle of the turn when you hit the brakes, then I would also do the front spring and oil change, but I would also go up in diff oils in all 3 diffs. I would also consider leaning the rear shocks down more (go in one hole on the tower). You'll give up forward bite but gain side bite. If grip is high enough, the forward bite loss is not an issue.
You can also play with thicker sway bars on high grip surfaces too. Make that your last thing to try after you feel you got close.
So try the following in this order
harder front spring (pink or green)
thicker front shock oil (50sct thicker to start, then adjust after driving)
thicker diff oils (maybe 10-10-7 if grip is really high)
lay the rear shocks down some
If you do all of these things and still find yourself struggling, THEN we need to look at roll centers.
And yes, it was mainly corner entry. Mid-turn, to exit, any stepping out was mainly due to a little "whiskey throttle". I also just switched from Tekin, and I'm trying to dial in my new Orion Vortex R8.1 esc and motor.....getting a little abrupt power delivery on initial throttle delivery wasn't helping for smooth corner exits.