Fantom Facts Dyno and Lipos vs Lead Acid
02-05-2015, 05:14 AM
#1
Fantom Facts Dyno; Endbell Timing for Blinky Racing
I didn't find too much about using inertia dynos for TC/Blinky racing. The following represent some observations I have made with a Fantom Facts inertia dyno converted to run brushless motors for blinky racing.
Last edited by ic-racer; 02-08-2015 at 01:18 PM.
02-05-2015, 06:05 PM
#2
Started trying out the Dyno with the same motor and various power supplies. So far the 7500 70C race pack I'm using shows pretty consistent runs with brushed motors.
02-08-2015, 10:56 AM
#4
Results from LiPo Test. Repeated testing of the same 17.5 motor: maximum RPM dropped 0.7% after ten dyno runs.
Last edited by ic-racer; 02-08-2015 at 01:59 PM.
02-08-2015, 12:27 PM
#5
My Fantom Facts Dyno Brushless Setup:
This is a little different from what others have posted. This works well but may be underpowered for low turn motors or other applications (HobbyWing Justock Output: Continuous 45A, burst 260A). I run high-turn stock classes with Justock ESCs in the cars.
1) RS232 to USB adapter connects the Fantom Facts Dyno to a contemporary computer
Fantom Facts II software should run on contemporary Windoze operating system
2) 2 Cell LiPo connects to the "12V" input of the Fantom Facts Dyno
3) Red & Black output wires from dyno connect to the Justock ESC's race pack connection
4) HobbyWing Justock with the following important settings:
a) double check full forward endpoint is set
b) Lipo voltage cutoff = OFF
5) HobbyWing Justock is plugged into channel #2 of a receiver
6) Switch for the Justock is OFF (stays OFF)
7) Nicad Receiver Pack or some BEC voltage regulator is plugged into a free socket on the receiver
8) When the battery is connected the ESC and Receiver should power on (even with the Justock switch OFF). If there is a steering servo connected it will function.
9) The Justock ESC, if setup correctly will show a non-blinking GREEN on full throttle and full brake but the motor will not move (if it does, maybe the ESC switch is ON?)
If it gives a solid or blinking RED on full throttle, something is not right and the dyno startup may be compromised or may not occur.
10) With the Dyno's front toggle switch ON and the software cued up to the "Run Motor" screen, check that full throttle shows a solid GREEN on the Justock ESC.
11) Keep full throttle and click the "Run Motor" button.
12) Dyno should startup instantly. Justock ESC's Green light should stay on for the entire run.
13) If the motor started up correctly the Amp values on the dataset should start with the highest number and decrease progressively during the run.
This is a little different from what others have posted. This works well but may be underpowered for low turn motors or other applications (HobbyWing Justock Output: Continuous 45A, burst 260A). I run high-turn stock classes with Justock ESCs in the cars.
1) RS232 to USB adapter connects the Fantom Facts Dyno to a contemporary computer
Fantom Facts II software should run on contemporary Windoze operating system
2) 2 Cell LiPo connects to the "12V" input of the Fantom Facts Dyno
3) Red & Black output wires from dyno connect to the Justock ESC's race pack connection
4) HobbyWing Justock with the following important settings:
a) double check full forward endpoint is set
b) Lipo voltage cutoff = OFF
5) HobbyWing Justock is plugged into channel #2 of a receiver
6) Switch for the Justock is OFF (stays OFF)
7) Nicad Receiver Pack or some BEC voltage regulator is plugged into a free socket on the receiver
8) When the battery is connected the ESC and Receiver should power on (even with the Justock switch OFF). If there is a steering servo connected it will function.
9) The Justock ESC, if setup correctly will show a non-blinking GREEN on full throttle and full brake but the motor will not move (if it does, maybe the ESC switch is ON?)
If it gives a solid or blinking RED on full throttle, something is not right and the dyno startup may be compromised or may not occur.
10) With the Dyno's front toggle switch ON and the software cued up to the "Run Motor" screen, check that full throttle shows a solid GREEN on the Justock ESC.
11) Keep full throttle and click the "Run Motor" button.
12) Dyno should startup instantly. Justock ESC's Green light should stay on for the entire run.
13) If the motor started up correctly the Amp values on the dataset should start with the highest number and decrease progressively during the run.
Last edited by ic-racer; 02-08-2015 at 01:49 PM.
02-08-2015, 12:51 PM
#6
The next series of graphs shows the effects of altering endbell timing, while keeping other variables the same.
02-08-2015, 12:51 PM
#7
02-08-2015, 01:06 PM
#8
02-08-2015, 01:10 PM
#9
The next graphs show "Input Power" and "Output Power" values specific to Dave Clary's software. Distance between the two lines would be proportional to the generated heat. On this one I'll try between +15 and +20 degrees. I'm looking for a point just before the two lines start to diverge.
02-08-2015, 01:12 PM
#10
This one looks like it would do well between +25 and +30 degrees:
02-11-2015, 07:38 AM
#11
I started testing all my motors. Since the performance of any brushless is proportional to the timing I wanted to do all my tests at the same timing.
I made a little Hall sensor tester from some LEDs, nicads and a resistor.
As one spins the magnet, one can appreciate three 'hills' and ''valleys.' When the LED just changes its state at the peak of a 'hill' then the timing is at zero. Having the flywheel attached to the shaft makes this easier.
I adjust the endbell to exact zero with this method. Seems the endbell marks can be quite far from correct zero in certain motors. There are other, more expnesive, ways to do this ( http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route...product_id=204 ) .'
I made a little Hall sensor tester from some LEDs, nicads and a resistor.
As one spins the magnet, one can appreciate three 'hills' and ''valleys.' When the LED just changes its state at the peak of a 'hill' then the timing is at zero. Having the flywheel attached to the shaft makes this easier.
I adjust the endbell to exact zero with this method. Seems the endbell marks can be quite far from correct zero in certain motors. There are other, more expnesive, ways to do this ( http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route...product_id=204 ) .'
02-11-2015, 07:40 AM
#12
This picture shows the Hall sensor tester. Made from an old sensor cable, LEDs and a resistor. 
02-12-2015, 09:07 PM
#15
B20 what mean well did you get?