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Yokomo YZ-2

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Welcome to the YZ2 Wiki!


Features for the lastest specification YZ-2DTM3.1
  • Long specification for dirt Main chassis Inheriting the chassis cut of dirt specification, it is longer with the same wheelbase as CAL3.
  • Aluminum front suspension mount.
  • Z2-DTM2B F2 body.
  • JConcepts ASTRO High Clearance 7inch Wing.
Features for the lastest specification YZ-2CAL3.1
  • Long specification main chassis for carpets. Long wheelbase that enables even higher speeds.
  • Steel front suspension mount.
  • Z2-DTMBL S2 Lightweight body.
  • Z2-CAL2W LMR Wing.
Common features for the lastest specification YZ-2DTM3.1 / YZ-2CAL3.1
  • The conventional position and the position of the suspension arm pin 1 mm higher can be selected on the front and back of the front suspension mount.
  • Bulkhead integrated side plate with increased rigidity.
  • The kingpin position has been changed with the new steering hub carrier, the axle position has been lengthened by 1 mm, and a steering stopper has also been added.
  • Battery holder that is easy to adjust according to the height of the battery.
  • Separate the rear mount base and upper arm holder to increase the flex around the rear and improve traction.
  • Z2-018-5 5-hole shock mounting specification Rear shock tower.
  • S4-S1S 3.0mm shaft specification front shock.
  • S4-S1M 3.0mm shaft specification rear short shock.
  • S4-008R5B L5 / LD Rear suspension arm (Φ3.5 pin).
  • Z2-01069 Rear universal shaft (69mm bone).

Setup Sheets can be found here

DT CA DTM parts comparison

YZ2T Tranny Conversion List

YOKZ2-300RFT
YOKZ2-302CT
YOKZ2-302T
YOKZ2-304T
YOKZ2-503I
YOKZ2-0023

CAL3 manual
DTM3 manual



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Old 03-04-2015, 03:18 PM
  #691  
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Originally Posted by scythe23
Just curious since I have like 4 or 5 b5 ball diffs
Someone mentioned a 22 diff will work if you put enough shims in it.
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:20 PM
  #692  
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550
There is nothing to be gained by pucks. Besides, with the materials yokomo uses the out drives and axles last considerably longer than the puck system. Local TLR driver has them in his 22 and is wearing the out drives faster than the pucks, the material is way too soft.

My B-max2 out drives and axles had a year's worth of racing on them, and the only thing you could tell was worn is the pin in the out drive end of the axle had a small flat, and the out drives looked new other than the black was worn off.

With the correct materials, they last a long time. Besides, you can buy TWO entire sets of axles for the cost of one puck system.

If they made aluminum, you could argue a slight weight savings, but there isn't enough there to go after IMO ( and yes I understand it is rotating weight ).

Besides the MIP system uses the plastic rings to hold the cross pins in the CVA, a design that is notorious for failing.

IMO the yokomo drive shafts, axles, and CVAs are the longest lasting, best quality in the business.
Won't argue with you about the quality of Yokomo since I haven't bought one yet but I will say in my b5m the weight savings in the rotating mass is a huge improvement on how snappy my car drives, to say that the weight savings isn't worth it is imo not very accurate at all from a 17.5 racer point of view. Now for mod i can't see the value at all in the shiny pucks
. Also with proper maintenance the orange pucks are not an issue
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:22 PM
  #693  
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550
Someone mentioned a 22 diff will work if you put enough shims in it.
ah thanks, prob just get the yokomo one then, like I said I have a few brand new AE ones and was curious if I could just use those
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:22 PM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by Socket
Gear diffs in 1/10th applications require constant fluid changes and care. My last ball diff lasted 4 months without ever being touched, and was buttery smooth for the entire time. A friend that was running a gear diff kept having to change fluid to keep the diff action consistent from day to day.
After initial breakin, I ran my B-Max2 diff for a year without touching it. No leaking, so I knew the fluid was in it still. The yokomo diff is substantially better quality than the other builders ( except for XRay, who has the same setup as yokomo)
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:16 PM
  #695  
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I wouldn't call a gear diff lower maintenance for 1/10th 2wd than a ball diff.

Just buy a set of grounded diff plates, Bfast or TKO come to mind, some good carbide diffs balls and ceramic thrust balls (personal choice).
Use good grease, with the proper amount.
A good break up and a careful first run and you will have a great smooth diff for months. I would have to at least refill a gear diff way before that.

I still prefer a ball diff for 2wd, maybe a bit less flashy on the track but more stable. Lots of people talk about tires and setups but a good well setup diff is for me the first thing to watch for on a 2wd.
For training I keep the gear diff as wear is almost null.

Carbide balls favor a loose setting, low to medium grip. If tightens too much it will become gritty pretty fast.
If I have to run on high to very high grip I would use ceramic diff balls. Such diff need to be tighten quite a bit to stop slipping but will be smooth for a while at that setting, you will go through diff plate as they will wear more quickly.
I like a gear diff on high grip.

4wd is another story, maintaining 2 balls diffs In good shape is a hard task and I find those less sensible than 2wd to gear diffs diffing out.

I got issues with ball diffs until I tried grounded perfectly flat diff rings and good balls. Night and day.
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:32 AM
  #696  
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Originally Posted by scythe23
Won't argue with you about the quality of Yokomo since I haven't bought one yet but I will say in my b5m the weight savings in the rotating mass is a huge improvement on how snappy my car drives, to say that the weight savings isn't worth it is imo not very accurate at all from a 17.5 racer point of view. Now for mod i can't see the value at all in the shiny pucks
. Also with proper maintenance the orange pucks are not an issue
Yes the weight savings is not the benefit of the pucks system. With the pucks you always maintain a zero lash setting in the dogbones creating a quick snap feel. This is a big power loss for stock class racers who race on high bite without a pucks system. Then we can go into the rotation weight loss. The entire diff of a pucks system weighs 8-10g. This is over %50 weight reduction compared to stock.

In comparison to when I raced road bikes, when I went to BST wheels on my R6 I would gain more acceleration and top end, this was only paired with the ease of the bike's handling when flipping it back and forth through corners. I worked way less with the BST and could ride harder longer than I could with the stock aluminum wheels. This is why stock drivers seek out parts like this.
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:34 AM
  #697  
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how is this compared to the bmax?

also, any luck on the diff balls? if diff balls were in stock, i would pull the trigger and get it...
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Old 03-07-2015, 10:46 AM
  #698  
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Originally Posted by mojo tom
I wouldn't call a gear diff lower maintenance for 1/10th 2wd than a ball diff.

Just buy a set of grounded diff plates, Bfast or TKO come to mind, some good carbide diffs balls and ceramic thrust balls (personal choice).
Use good grease, with the proper amount.
A good break up and a careful first run and you will have a great smooth diff for months. I would have to at least refill a gear diff way before that.

I still prefer a ball diff for 2wd, maybe a bit less flashy on the track but more stable. Lots of people talk about tires and setups but a good well setup diff is for me the first thing to watch for on a 2wd.
For training I keep the gear diff as wear is almost null.

Carbide balls favor a loose setting, low to medium grip. If tightens too much it will become gritty pretty fast.
If I have to run on high to very high grip I would use ceramic diff balls. Such diff need to be tighten quite a bit to stop slipping but will be smooth for a while at that setting, you will go through diff plate as they will wear more quickly.
I like a gear diff on high grip.

4wd is another story, maintaining 2 balls diffs In good shape is a hard task and I find those less sensible than 2wd to gear diffs diffing out.

I got issues with ball diffs until I tried grounded perfectly flat diff rings and good balls. Night and day.
Got to agree with you there i had issues with the 22 diff when it came out told run ceramic balls but was just crap.Never had problems before with a diff running carbide balls....
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Old 03-07-2015, 04:02 PM
  #699  
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here's my setup for those med traction outdoor clay tracks. Based off CLints setup and added mine and local fast guy Dereks changes. Its pretty dang good. Take a look if your outside.

Also adjust the oils to temp outside by 2.5 up or down.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
YZ-2 MODESTO SETUP (1).pdf (406.6 KB, 366 views)
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Old 03-09-2015, 06:48 AM
  #700  
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I am about done building the car and I have to say this is probably the nicest 1:10 scale car I have ever built.

There is one issue with the car that I don't like. The front bumper doesn't sit flat on the chassis. And the part that is supposed to hold the front inner hinge pins in is bowing away from them and doesn't sit flush against the retainer. I can see this breaking or flexing enough to loose that part.
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:03 AM
  #701  
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Originally Posted by masher81
I am about done building the car and I have to say this is probably the nicest 1:10 scale car I have ever built.

There is one issue with the car that I don't like. The front bumper doesn't sit flat on the chassis. And the part that is supposed to hold the front inner hinge pins in is bowing away from them and doesn't sit flush against the retainer. I can see this breaking or flexing enough to loose that part.
Make sure you didn't overtighten the screws going through the front bumper. They need to be snug but too tight and I saw them start to kinda warp the bumper myself.
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkA
Make sure you didn't overtighten the screws going through the front bumper.
Its like this even with no screws. I am going to CA glue a thin strip of plastic to the front bumper in between the hinge pin brace and the bumper to take up the slop.
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:10 AM
  #703  
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This car is the real deal. Came up short of winning the 40+ 17.5 class but that was my fault not the car. Buggy was stuck and so easy to drive. Stayed with my setup posted on Petit with two changes. Went with Kyosho spring gold front and white rear and laid the rear shocks all the way down. I was up against all the B5's and puck systems. I wasn't down on power by any means. Can't wait to run this car again.
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:12 AM
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I want to run this car for 13.5... but the part support SUCKS! both the TI turnbuckles and ball diffs are out of order Amain has a $25 coupon for purchases > $250. I may just go all new.. BUT, the parts issue....
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:18 AM
  #705  
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Its not just Yokomo, It seems like all the manufactures are having issues right now.
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