Which on road car
12-03-2014, 06:01 PM
#16
Tech Master
I don't own a Top car. But Top made a great car in the Saber S4. Price point is very low. A great chassis for the money.
12-03-2014, 07:26 PM
#17
Tech Master
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Consider getting something used. That way if you don't like it, you won't lose as much on it than if you had bought it new and then sold used. This should give you time to really figure out first, which class to run, and then, which model to run.
12-04-2014, 12:18 AM
#18
Heres a response i gave 1 of the guys asking for help but it was too late since he already had purchased another car
I started racing 1 year ago. First car was a HPI, then tried AE, then Tamiya 417v5.... this winter i sold both 417's for 2 Awesomatix A700 Evo. I want to give you my honest feedback.
One of the most annoying things that i did not like about a traditional car like you named is they will release a newer car yearly. Which most of the time, the new one is better. Most of the time, you cannot convert your last years to the new updates. This would require for you to sell your car every year.
A few pro drivers in my area told me that it is recommended to switch cars yearly anyhow because of slop developing a year later. It is more cost effective to sell your 1 year old car then buy the new release.
Awesomatix may cost more from the beginning, but long term it is way more cost effective.
- it is the only car in the market that doest not release a new car yearly. They make updates on parts that is compatible to upgrade even the first generation kit.
- the car is mostly aluminum and carbon fiber which makes the car very durable. Slop develops mostly in Plastics.
Aluminum and carbon = no or less slop.
- I have never broken a piece since i have owned it and i crash hard very hard. Some mod guys have T boned me full force on a straight. Things might pop out, get loose (mechanic error lol) but have yet to actually break a piece.
Something to think about since you have concerns that a new kit comes out every year....
Me as an Awesomatix owner dont have to worry about that.
Also, Awesomatix from what i have seen and hear is prolly the only car where you can have the very first generation and still compete and beat the newest and greatest kits currently out.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
I started racing 1 year ago. First car was a HPI, then tried AE, then Tamiya 417v5.... this winter i sold both 417's for 2 Awesomatix A700 Evo. I want to give you my honest feedback.
One of the most annoying things that i did not like about a traditional car like you named is they will release a newer car yearly. Which most of the time, the new one is better. Most of the time, you cannot convert your last years to the new updates. This would require for you to sell your car every year.
A few pro drivers in my area told me that it is recommended to switch cars yearly anyhow because of slop developing a year later. It is more cost effective to sell your 1 year old car then buy the new release.
Awesomatix may cost more from the beginning, but long term it is way more cost effective.
- it is the only car in the market that doest not release a new car yearly. They make updates on parts that is compatible to upgrade even the first generation kit.
- the car is mostly aluminum and carbon fiber which makes the car very durable. Slop develops mostly in Plastics.
Aluminum and carbon = no or less slop.
- I have never broken a piece since i have owned it and i crash hard very hard. Some mod guys have T boned me full force on a straight. Things might pop out, get loose (mechanic error lol) but have yet to actually break a piece.
Something to think about since you have concerns that a new kit comes out every year....
Me as an Awesomatix owner dont have to worry about that.
Also, Awesomatix from what i have seen and hear is prolly the only car where you can have the very first generation and still compete and beat the newest and greatest kits currently out.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
You write it is very durable, I have heard differently.
You write it is made of aluminium instead of plastics, which doesn't develop slop. Maybe true, but aluminium may not brake as easily as plastic, but it bends and needs to be replaced. And much more expensive than a plastic part. For a new driver with a lot of crashes, it sounds like buying a lot of expensive alu parts.
Most drivers I know of who have had the Awesomatix in the end went for something more "traditional" for various reasons.
And the "need to change car each year" statement. Maybe true for the pro drivers. They may even get them for free or at a reduced price. I have no problem keeping my 417V5 tight and slop free. I disassemble it regularly and replaces parts that are not in tip tip condition. And for my club level, it far exceeds my potential.
You write that an Awesomatix is the only car that with an older generation can compete with the newest kits. I believe that any second generation version of all the top brand TC's can be raced competitively by any higher level racer.
I'm not saying an Awesomatix is not a good TC, just that it is seems not to be the perfect "beginner" TC.
No offense, but the statements are just so much not based on facts, sorry. Maybe wishful thinking.
I never make the mistake and believes that the brand I drive (Tamiya) is the best. They are all good.
If you blindly believe that your car is the best, you become a fan boy. You disconnect yourself from fact based argumentation. Not a good starting point when trying to give advice to others.
Last edited by Salkin; 12-04-2014 at 12:37 AM.
12-04-2014, 02:03 AM
#19
12-06-2014, 01:07 PM
#20
I am thinking of getting AE tc6 parts are easy to get
12-06-2014, 03:27 PM
#21
Tech Regular
The TC6 is a fine car, but a little on the fragile side and the setup window is quite small. It's not bad by any means but may not be the best car to begin with. I would personally go for an XRay car. A bit pricier but virtually bullet proof. The T4 is a good and stable platform, and probably the best car to begin with.
Martin Paradis
Martin Paradis
12-07-2014, 01:38 PM
#22
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
I bought a brand new TC6.2 back in April when i started racing, but after testing somebody's XRay a few months later i quickly sold off my AE's. In my experience the AE is very fragile (CVA bone blades had to be replaced at least once every track day, sometimes 3 or 4).
Also it didn't seem to have as much mechanical grip as the XRAY. Main reason I switched though is because many others at my club ran XRAY. Proved to be a good choice as it was easy to get set up help.
Also it didn't seem to have as much mechanical grip as the XRAY. Main reason I switched though is because many others at my club ran XRAY. Proved to be a good choice as it was easy to get set up help.
12-07-2014, 06:19 PM
#23
thanks for the info on AE tc6
Then I will look for a xray t4 I don't want to spend more time working on the car replacing parts then I get to drive it
Then I will look for a xray t4 I don't want to spend more time working on the car replacing parts then I get to drive it
12-07-2014, 06:44 PM
#24
ARC R10 or the x ray. both are bullet proof cars. ive had mine since august and have yet to break anything.
12-07-2014, 06:50 PM
#25
Any of the top line kits will work fine.
If you're just getting starting in on-road you're going to break stuff.
Xray, Tamiya, Yokomo, Associated & Awesomatix, are probably the most universally popular.
Xray, Assoc & Tamiya probably have the best parts support.
Xray's website is probably the best for team/factory driver advice and support and a vast number of set-ups.
The best advice in these threads is always the same:
1) What's your budget?
2) What is everyone else running at your track? From what I have seen, tracks tend to group around a few brands. Ours is Xray, Associated, and Tamiya with a couple Yokomo and Awesomatix thrown in. There is no substitute for being able to compare apples to apples with an experienced racer.
3) What does your LHS stock?
If you're just getting starting in on-road you're going to break stuff.
Xray, Tamiya, Yokomo, Associated & Awesomatix, are probably the most universally popular.
Xray, Assoc & Tamiya probably have the best parts support.
Xray's website is probably the best for team/factory driver advice and support and a vast number of set-ups.
The best advice in these threads is always the same:
1) What's your budget?
2) What is everyone else running at your track? From what I have seen, tracks tend to group around a few brands. Ours is Xray, Associated, and Tamiya with a couple Yokomo and Awesomatix thrown in. There is no substitute for being able to compare apples to apples with an experienced racer.
3) What does your LHS stock?
12-08-2014, 05:57 PM
#26
Looks like xray and AE were the most at the track
But I want a bullet proof car one that can take a hit .
But I want a bullet proof car one that can take a hit .
12-08-2014, 06:11 PM
#27
A bullet proof car does not exist. I will give Xray high marks for durability. I drove them for 5 years before switching this year to try something else. They are fast and durable..... but not bullet proof. Only your driving can do that.
12-08-2014, 06:28 PM
#28
I agree with that I am just saying I don't need another car that you just clip a pipe and there goes the control arm like the b44.2 Ae has week arms and the way some guys talk the t6 is the same way
12-11-2014, 09:11 AM
#29
I would buy a kit that has parts available at your LHS. It will be good if the kit you're getting is commonly used by the fast guys at your track so that can guide you on setup.
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