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MTS 1/10 Electric FF Pro

Old 06-08-2015, 09:15 AM
  #31  
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Blu-tack is the stuff that they used to use when I was in grade school to stick stuff to walls. http://www.blutack.com/. Up here you get it at Businsess Supply stores like Staples, or even Walmart.
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by patorz31
Blu-tack is the stuff that they used to use when I was in grade school to stick stuff to walls. http://www.blutack.com/. Up here you get it at Businsess Supply stores like Staples, or even Walmart.
I appreciate it, this is new to me. I suppose you pack the diff with it and you can adjust feel by adding or removing portions. Ear plugs seems to be a good old school method that always work too.
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:11 PM
  #33  
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Yeah that's my thought exactly, considering silicone ear plugs are designed for shooting, blutack might be easier for people in some countries to get. I use silicone ear plugs on everything I want to lock the diff in, from my tamiya mini to my TC.

Just Noticed Race-Opt has Blu tack on their website.
http://www.race-opt.com/index.php?th...&subcategory=3
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by patorz31
Yeah that's my thought exactly, considering silicone ear plugs are designed for shooting, blutack might be easier for people in some countries to get. I use silicone ear plugs on everything I want to lock the diff in, from my tamiya mini to my TC.

Just Noticed Race-Opt has Blu tack on their website.
http://www.race-opt.com/index.php?th...&subcategory=3
lol maybe thats what ride putty is, instead of blue it's grayish in color. Watching videos of the acceleration got me pumped to get this thing going.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:11 AM
  #35  
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Well last night was the first official race for the FF Pro. I must say I was pleasantly surprised. I ran it in 17.5 TC Stock trim, with the largest gearing I had. I didn't have a 72t 48p spur that fit, it uses the same 3 hole pattern that the Xray uses and my LHS only carries Robinson Racing gears. I had a 78t one that fit so that is what I ran for the first night. I fit a 37t pinion and got to 4:1 for a FDR. The regular TC Stock guys run down to 3.5:1. So first off, the car pulls out the the corners very hard for a fwd, way harder then I thought it would. it was 3/10s off the 4wds if they got a completely clean lap, 1/10ths to 2/10ths most laps.
I am actually thinking that is gearing as the could pull me on the end of the 130ft straight. I thought with the 70/30 weight bias it would be very loose in the back, it wasn't. It was stuck like glue, it actually worked better then my 4wd TC. Had to dial back the brakes a fair bit. If you hit the brakes really hard it gets a very bad push, like a real FWD. Gentle braking, slowit in and punch it around and it would turn inside 4wd. I am really impressed.

Had one issue though, guy spun right in front of me and I t-boned him at full song. The fan on the fan mount was completely destroyed. So I may have to come up with a new fan mount and some ducting. All in all I was very impressed, I can't wait for indoor season to run this in Scale spec.
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:18 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by patorz31
Well last night was the first official race for the FF Pro. I must say I was pleasantly surprised. I ran it in 17.5 TC Stock trim, with the largest gearing I had. I didn't have a 72t 48p spur that fit, it uses the same 3 hole pattern that the Xray uses and my LHS only carries Robinson Racing gears. I had a 78t one that fit so that is what I ran for the first night. I fit a 37t pinion and got to 4:1 for a FDR. The regular TC Stock guys run down to 3.5:1. So first off, the car pulls out the the corners very hard for a fwd, way harder then I thought it would. it was 3/10s off the 4wds if they got a completely clean lap, 1/10ths to 2/10ths most laps.
I am actually thinking that is gearing as the could pull me on the end of the 130ft straight. I thought with the 70/30 weight bias it would be very loose in the back, it wasn't. It was stuck like glue, it actually worked better then my 4wd TC. Had to dial back the brakes a fair bit. If you hit the brakes really hard it gets a very bad push, like a real FWD. Gentle braking, slowit in and punch it around and it would turn inside 4wd. I am really impressed.

Had one issue though, guy spun right in front of me and I t-boned him at full song. The fan on the fan mount was completely destroyed. So I may have to come up with a new fan mount and some ducting. All in all I was very impressed, I can't wait for indoor season to run this in Scale spec.

Great reporting, it's always good to get feedback on a product and you're providing valuable information.

Any reason why you're using 48p? Is it due to available gear meshing distance that's available?

Still maintaining factory shocks with standard TC springs and ear plugs in the diff?
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:35 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by b20btec
Great reporting, it's always good to get feedback on a product and you're providing valuable information.

Any reason why you're using 48p? Is it due to available gear meshing distance that's available?

Still maintaining factory shocks with standard TC springs and ear plugs in the diff?
Our permanent pave track is getting old and no amount of blowing and sweeping will stop the small pebbles from popping up and getting in the gears. The 48p take it better then 64p. On my 235mm 10 pan mod car I run 32p. I ordered A bunch of RW Racing spurs from England that are machined to Panaracer specs.
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:39 AM
  #38  
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Well ran the car again last night, it ran great it is a hoot to race. I am going to take some time this weekend to go over the springs and shocks to see if I can get some more initial turn in. I really think it is me, not the car. This is the best sub $200 project I have done in the hobby in a long time.
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:01 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by patorz31
Our permanent pave track is getting old and no amount of blowing and sweeping will stop the small pebbles from popping up and getting in the gears. The 48p take it better then 64p. On my 235mm 10 pan mod car I run 32p. I ordered A bunch of RW Racing spurs from England that are machined to Panaracer specs.
Since you are looking for bigger pinion of 48P, try find arrowmax ones.
http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/Gears/PINION-GEAR--48P.html
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mac853
Since you are looking for bigger pinion of 48P, try find arrowmax ones.
http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/Gears/PINION-GEAR--48P.html
That's what I ordered, was hoping EMR Factory would build some 48p sets but they haven't yet.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:43 PM
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B20btec have you had yours out yet?
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Old 06-23-2015, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by patorz31
B20btec have you had yours out yet?
Running it this weekend in usgt. I have to pick up a motor and shorty lipo at my local track this week. Setup is with team powers 21.5, Tamiya bmw lw body, std lipo and will try shorty during quals. I fitted TRF short shocks also with ride short springs. The car isn't as light as I thought, around 1330 grams with a super light orca pack race weight. The shorty lipo will drop 50 grams. It's probably the usgt wheels.

Last edited by b20btec; 06-23-2015 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:37 AM
  #43  
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Right now mine is running a Tekin RS (Old One) 16g wire, Gravity RC Ti screws in the top deck and a shorty. I pulled a deck post out of the back and tried to make the wires as short as possible. Mine with a heavy body HPI Celica, is 1270. With a lighter body and a LCG shorty it will weigh aprox 1170. What size wirer are you running? The length of wire to the motor weighs alot.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by patorz31
Right now mine is running a Tekin RS (Old One) 16g wire, Gravity RC Ti screws in the top deck and a shorty. I pulled a deck post out of the back and tried to make the wires as short as possible. Mine with a heavy body HPI Celica, is 1270. With a lighter body and a LCG shorty it will weigh aprox 1170. What size wirer are you running? The length of wire to the motor weighs alot.
I'm running a HW 3.1 which is heavy, wired it with 14g to keep weight down. I'm running aluminum screws throughout. When I get around to it I'll order a HW justock, which should save another 30g. I don't see the car getting under 1250 in usgt trim but possibly when I set it up for stock TC. I'll post pictures when I get s chance.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:09 AM
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You guys run 8min mains right? I am using a sort of shorty battery. It's the Team Power 3400maH 2s that is the same size as a 12th scale battery. It weighs 150g.

http://www.team-powers.com/index.php...&subcategory=6

We only run 5 mins and it holds it own with a 21.5, with a 17.5 the voltage drops too much at 4:30mins.
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