DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Checking the centering of the timing sensor should help a lot. My motor was iffy when it came out of the box, cogging and I was afraid to crank the timing up, but after making sure the sensor was dead center I can now run the motor cranked to the stop without any hesitation on the bottom end. That last tick of timing on the endbell and gearing down a bit seems to really wake this motor up, I am stoked for the IIC, it feels like I may finally have the power it takes to run stock 1/12 with the frontrunners.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

I have experienced this with both R1 and team Powers motors. Trinity motors don't do this, and for all intentive purposes all 3 motors (up to the d3.5- have not seen d4) have identical sensor boards, save the plastic centering ring the Trinity motors have. This makes me think that your sensor board can be slightly misaligned.

We have recently been testing a lot of the Powers motors and have noticed that a lot of the timing boards are not very concentric, like on the R1 motors. However, we have seen gains in performance from the alignment of these and we even offer it as a service when you purchase an R1 or Powers motor from us.

I will test the actinium in 1s tomorrow at the track. I'll report back on my findings with the aligned sensor board on 1s.

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I took the motor apart to inspect and align (if necessary) the sensor board. Everything looked aligned just by eyeballing it. I didn't see any glaring issues that warranted realignment. I'd be interested to know if there is tool and/or special way of check for this. Unfortunately, I put the motor back and it's still cogging badly. I'm going to test the lower timing and taller gearing this week. Hopefully, the cogging issue will go away and I won't notice a dip in performance/lap times.

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

Have you tried contacting Team Powers USA directly? They do have a warranty.

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I have not. I understand that there may be a potential alignment issue with the sensor board for this motor. That being said, the cogging issue only occurs when using the HW V3.1 1S ESC. It's also happening to a fellow racer with the same ESC. It works fine for everyone else using LRP and ORCA ESCs. I'm getting a new Actinium this Saturday. If the problem doesn't go away I'm getting an ORCA 1S ESC.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Is this in blinky?

John.C

iTrader: (37)

Yes, 17.5 blinky.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

I have this "cogging" sound from both my 21.5 and 17.5 in blinky. This is both on the LRP and the ORCA esc's. It doesn't seem to affect performance and only happens at low rpms. My father gets it on his 21.5 as well (lrp esc in blinky).

James321

Cogging with our motor is common at very low throttle input. This is usually because the esc is not giving enough power to the motor. Turning off current limiters and turning up throttle minimum will fix the issue.

With the team powers radon esc you can get rid of the cogging by turning the throttle curve to max(flip it to custom and make the curve flat at 100%). I would give this a shot on the HW 3.1 esc and see if it does the same thing.

-James Davenport

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I will definitely give this a shot. Thank you very much.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

All this argument about timing, cogging, gearing, fans, batteries, and all the rest makes me long for the simple days of boosted stock

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I set the throttle to "Custom" and changed the start point to 25% in the throttle curve and it has fixed my problem. No more cogging and the noise is also gone. I've shared my results with my friend and he's going to try it as well. I'm pretty confident that this will work for him and for anyone else that is having this problem. Thanks James and everyone else for the help and support.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

This is as far as I was able to go with timing today. The car ran very strong and I was able to match some of the fastest laps I have done. I will try the settings on the esc as well. Thanks for the report John.

Please also note that this is with a re aligned and re gapped sensor board to get it closer to the rotor. Some soldering is involved.

SLIPPERY76

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, I have two actinium 17.5 motors one in a b44.2 which is awesome, heaps of torque but plenty of top end as well. The other in a B5M is ok but not as good as the first one (was expecting it to really rip in the 2wd) replaced the sensor board as it was all over the place but the rotor seems tight, no free play even with the shim removed. Any help or ideas would be great, should I look at getting it replaced?

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

I'd check to make sure that the bearings are seated properly in the can and endbell. If they are seated as they should be, you should have a small amount of free play with no shims installed. Once you've confirmed that the rotor "floats" between the bearings, you will most likely notice a difference in performance.