mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

Here's a pic of the problem. The gasket isn't sitting properly and is therefore pushing up and disrupting the O-ring. I'm thinking the gasket needs trimming, otherwise I will omit one of the two. Any thoughts? (I don't have the proper front diff oil yet, so time isn't of the essence.)

LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

As mentioned previously, skip the o-ring (or put a bit of diff fluid on the gasket to make it stick to the case.) We have five cars and I don't know how many gear diffs.. no o-rings, no leaks.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

Yup. Throw the o-ring away. I use a little AE green slime or equivalent on the gasket. Just a light coat on both sides. Helps seal things up and keeps the gasket from sticking to the case halves during disassembly. Plus it helps keep the gasket in place during assembly.

Salkin

Does anyone know how much more weight the 301138 alu chassis is over the standard carbon fibre chassis?

I can see that Hagberg are mainly using the alu chassis and another Xray team driver at our club were testing the alu chassis with good results.

Geberit

Alu is about 40g heavier then carbon.

Salkin

Thanks!

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

Thanks for the help guys. I was thinking some green slime should help. So it looks like I'll be omitting the o-ring once my 2.5mil gravity rc oil shows up!

Zhangesh

iTrader: (23)

Hi guys, I am having some trouble achieving zero rebound with the shocks. I am using RSD shock internals.

After i 'bleed' the shock a number of times, the oil doesn't want to bleed out anymore and I am stuck with an almost 100% rebound on one of the shocks. The 3 other shocks I have managed to achieve about 0-10% rebound.

Anybody got any tips?

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I'm using the RSD pistons but I prefer the Xray bladders. With the pre-drilled hole in the plastic portion of the shock cap, 0% rebound should be pretty easy. Check to make sure the hole isn't plugged (or missing?) in the shock that isn't building right.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Fill the shock and get the air out. Place the bladder on the shock, and gently work it in with a 5.5mm nut driver, to push excess oil out. Then place the plastic cap on the bladder to hold it in place. Then screw on the aluminum piece. If that doesn't give you 0-10% rebound, then something is weird with your shocks. Maybe one cap doesn't have a hole? Or it's plugged as metalnut mentioned. I'm not sure if they're molded that way or drilled at the factory.

-Mike

daleburr

You need to be a bottom bleeder

I assemble mine with the rod all the way out giving full rebound. Fit the bladder and install the cap, without doing any bleeding. Then turn the shock upside down, unscrew the bottom cap and push the shock rod to one side. All the extra pressure will bleed out, leaving a perfect zero-rebound shock with no air.

niznai

That's probably the best way to build shocks. Xray should have kept the bottom bleeding feature they had in the past (and so should everybody else).

I work the bladder on and the take the top plastic (not the whole cap) fit it on the bladder in its final resting position, hold it there with light pressure and push the piston all the way in allowing the excess oil to bleed out. Keeping the piston all the way in, I place the cap ring on the plastic and screw it in taking care to maintain pressure on the plastic and making sure it doesn't move around on the bladder. That's the only other way (more convoluted and finicky) to ensure consistent and reproduceable shock builds.

artwork

iTrader: (88)

I think there is a pretty good video about how to build Xray shocks with zero rebound.

grapejuice

iTrader: (152)

Really good method here for bleeding xray shocks, works very well for me:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhEDwZm8omM

Zhangesh

iTrader: (23)

This is perfect, worked like a charm! Thanks!