Originally Posted by frankf

So I purchased the ae clamping rear hex's, what false advertising that description is, I used pliers and squeezed them together and then did the screw up until there was no gap, with the hex not even mounted to the car, and it just slips on and off, how can ae sell us this junk that clearly doesn't do the job it's meant to, what's the solution do I need to stick with the plastic ones?

Originally Posted by TruggyDude91

Ease your storm there guy. I installed the clamping hexes on my T5M and they are great. I did not have any problems with the screws breaking or anything sliding off. Because the screw is tiny on these hexes, you need to tighten them down slowly and gently. When they feel tight, they are tight, no need to bear down on them because that is when guys break the screws and write on here that they are crap. In your case, squeezing them together defeats the purpose of the clamping hex. You have already squeezed them down so there is no clamping force to hold the hex onto the axle. How can the hex clamp to the axle surface if you already smooshed it down? By clamping them down with pliers, you most likely deformed the inside mating surface of the hex. Aluminum is soft and does not take much to deform it. I would bet the hole that the axle slides through is oblonged and hence why it is not clamping. I call user error in this case like most cases I have heard with people having problems with the aluminum clamping hexes.

Originally Posted by frankf

Obviously I tried it that way first im not an idiot, but it just slides off and doesn't clamp down so then I removed it and clamped it all the way down just to see if it would grab but no it just slides over the axle, I will check the part number but it was bought through amain under t5m parts and compatibility was t5m.

Originally Posted by frankf

The part number is asc 71014 8.5mm hex

Originally Posted by tc5 man

I might buy this truck off somebody i know . I'm wondering what does it take to convert it over to a B5M buggy ?

If its just the arms, shock towers, body that's no big deal i already have 2wd Buggy tires just not the B5M front wheels.

Originally Posted by BrandonBreh

Chassis - $50.99
Chassis Cradle - $8.39
Front and Rear Arms - $7.49 and $6.59
Driveshafts - $27.49
Front Axles - $8.39
Turnbuckles - $2.89 x3
Front and Rear Shock Tower - $4.79 and $5.69
Wheel Hexes - $1.89 x2
Body mounts - $3.79
Wheels - $5.39 x2
Tires - ?
Body - $25.49

$169.44 without tires and without a coupon code. Everything I listed is stock. No titanium turnbuckles. No aluminum wheel hexes or axles.

Might be better off selling your B5M and buying a T5M kit.

Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings

If those didn't fit then it was either a manufacturing issue with those hexes or for some reason you have the standard axles and not the HD versions (HD came with the trucks). Have you ever replaced the axles?

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1

So heres the deal. Had one T5m that worked great, decided I wanted to give the SC5M a shot, s I sold the T5M, which I immediately replaced cause I missed my truck. Here is the problem, same exact setup, same exact tires, same exact everything that was on the old truck, and this new one drives like crap. Wont track straight during breaking, hooks around turns, is not smooth anywhere on the track. Ballcups are reasonably free (better then the old truck), I am at a total loss, the SC5M which has basically the exact same setup, (expect for grey front springs (and front/rear pistons) in so in the pocket, I threw a 6.5 in it, and it handled it like a champ. The T5M is a squirrel monster with a 13.5. I'm baffled. My build skills are good, diff is fine, bearings have been replaced with ceramics and is free as can be. At a total loss.

Originally Posted by thercpr0

Can anyone get me the part number for the diff shims for the 3 gear? I heard that I needed to shim the diff when switching.