108LikesTeam Associated T5M Discussion
04-26-2015, 12:18 PM
#1501
Since having to tighten the diff to the max when running mod (so as to not bark the diff) and run a tight slipper (due to the weight of the truck), I am wondering if the benefits (tuning and weight) of a ball diff vs gear diff are being lost. Also rebuild requirements go way up with a 7.5 vs 17.5. Comments please.
That said, a slipper is more than a tuning tool for eliminating wheel spin, it also is there to relieve shocks to the drivetrain. I would recommend properly setting your slipper for a slight amount of slip. Even in 17.5 class, you're going to want some give in the drive train for shocks and bumps. I've ran Alloy pucks with a 7.5 turn motor, and never had abnormal wear or exploded anything. I also set my slipper to give up just a little when on the bench, this way the entire drive train isn't being hammered.
The diff should not ever be locked down, it should always be smooth and relatively free - locking it down will give you adverse handling.
If you think a gear diff is a fix for your issue, you're in for a harsh reality - They too will explode when pushed too hard just like a ball diff.
04-26-2015, 12:33 PM
#1502
thanks for the info. assembled mucho ball diffs so comfortable that procedure and understanding is good to go. I use carbide or ceramic balls and same for thrust. got away from sanding after talking to one of the ae drivers. will try sanding before I assemble today and check results. thanks again.
04-26-2015, 03:32 PM
#1503
You can not beat a properly built and tuned carbide based ball diff. It should and can last at least a year regardless of the motor and application it's in. The B5M/T5M diff is one of the smoothest around, and most durable when setup correctly. It continues to sound like you're not able to setup the drivetrain correctly, and are faulting the diff for this.
04-26-2015, 03:43 PM
#1505
No they don't. I've ran an aggressive modified motor for months without having to touch a diff that was and stayed absolutely cherry.
That said, a slipper is more than a tuning tool for eliminating wheel spin, it also is there to relieve shocks to the drivetrain. I would recommend properly setting your slipper for a slight amount of slip. Even in 17.5 class, you're going to want some give in the drive train for shocks and bumps. I've ran Alloy pucks with a 7.5 turn motor, and never had abnormal wear or exploded anything. I also set my slipper to give up just a little when on the bench, this way the entire drive train isn't being hammered.
The diff should not ever be locked down, it should always be smooth and relatively free - locking it down will give you adverse handling.
If you think a gear diff is a fix for your issue, you're in for a harsh reality - They too will explode when pushed too hard just like a ball diff.
That said, a slipper is more than a tuning tool for eliminating wheel spin, it also is there to relieve shocks to the drivetrain. I would recommend properly setting your slipper for a slight amount of slip. Even in 17.5 class, you're going to want some give in the drive train for shocks and bumps. I've ran Alloy pucks with a 7.5 turn motor, and never had abnormal wear or exploded anything. I also set my slipper to give up just a little when on the bench, this way the entire drive train isn't being hammered.
The diff should not ever be locked down, it should always be smooth and relatively free - locking it down will give you adverse handling.
If you think a gear diff is a fix for your issue, you're in for a harsh reality - They too will explode when pushed too hard just like a ball diff.
04-26-2015, 03:46 PM
#1506
thanks for the input. Never had a gear diff explode but am an expert on replacing idler gears on an sc10 ha ha. I run a slipper eliminator on my stock buggy with no problem. Staying off power on jumps takes care of the situation and makes for much faster lap times. I typically back off my diff a bit so as to not lock it down but it is still very tight. Had a problem with the t5m stock slipper tightening correctly so replaced with a b5m slipper. ae factory driver had the same prob so both faulty slippers went back to ae for eval. Maybe I will bite the bullet a get a schelle.
04-26-2015, 04:54 PM
#1507
thanks for the confirmation. will pick up a schelle before I put it on the track.
04-26-2015, 10:56 PM
#1509
04-26-2015, 11:01 PM
#1510
use the 9mm shock spring cups
04-27-2015, 03:46 AM
#1511
the oil basicly just softens or hardens the low speed diff action, when you start puting alot of power down they tend to behave the same regardless of the oil weight.
04-27-2015, 03:48 AM
#1512
i've seen people say the truck bounces from time to time,
mine does this too on a low jump with flat landing sometimes.
is there a way to completely eliminate this? played around with pistons but it seems the bounce doesn't ever go away.
mine does this too on a low jump with flat landing sometimes.
is there a way to completely eliminate this? played around with pistons but it seems the bounce doesn't ever go away.
04-27-2015, 06:17 AM
#1513
Ran my truck this weekend and tq'd and won stock truck at a local track. First time on the layout and the truck was ridiculous! Mounted a fan on the trans case facing the motor and it dropped my temps dramatically. If you guys are running stock I really recommend doing it!
04-27-2015, 08:32 AM
#1515
Tech Adept
My T5m came in on Friday.. Went and picked it up on Saturday, had it completely built by Sunday. REALLY easy build. I can see that they put a lot of effort into designing this thing. Anything that does break, should be relatively easy to fix. I don't need to take the whole back of the car apart to re-build the diff or replace the rear arms.. YAY!! I really like the fact that I only needed 2 different allen drivers for the entire truck.
The truck seems to be built like a tank. Can't wait to get it out on the track. All I need is another receiver, wheels/tires and paint for the body..
The truck seems to be built like a tank. Can't wait to get it out on the track. All I need is another receiver, wheels/tires and paint for the body..
