YoDog

iTrader: (28)

I am confronted with updating my ESC/motor package for 13.5t spec TC. I always seem to be down on power no matter what motor I try. Perhaps my ESC is just too outdated? I realize that non-boosted speedos should be created equal in theory but I really wonder if that's actually true. Have you ever switched to a different ESC and said WOW! What a difference that made? Please don't comment on boosted scenarios as that's not the spirit of this thread. I'm trying to figure out what the hotness is in spec. Class racing.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I've recently switched to the ORCA esc's and really like them. Super smooth and very adjustable. The brakes aren't as strong as some of the other esc's I've run but they haven't been lacking when I needed them either. They have the smoothest brakes from what I have tried as well. I was never one to use push brakes in the past as I could never get them to be smooth enough for me to use them consistently. So I always relied on drag brake if I needed it. After switching I felt much more comfortable using push brake. Overall its helped me pick up quite a bit of time on the track and be able to contend with the fastest guys at my track. They have all switched to ORCA as well after running my car.

PFKAOG

iTrader: (12)

The Hacker works really well. https://www.aero-model.com/6_55_1408...nsorIC-10.html

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

i have to second what Odin says. I used tekin for quite a while, but then switched to Orion R10's and was blown away. They were so much smoother then the on/off switch feel of the tekin. After about a year or so I tried an ORCA and it was even smoother then my Orions. At first I felt like it was slower, but my times proved that it was actually faster due to the smoothness. I would go with the new ORCA VXX and put the 4.0 software on it and you will be surprised how good it is.

hyujmn

iTrader: (27)

It'll help if we know what you're currently running.

However, that being said, no, I don't believe that a different blinky ESC/motor will suddenly make you a better driver. I've driven Hobbywing's cheapest ESC (Justock) and it's most expensive "best" ESC (Hobbywing v3.1) and every on road ESC in between and never felt like the ESC was holding me back.

There have been guys at my local track running Novak Edges and Hobbywing Justocks and doing very very well in blinky.

My preferred ESC for all blinky on road classes, however, is the Hobbywing v3.1 Stock Spec. It's lightweight, low cost, and has TONS of settings. Super easy to setup using a programming box and it can even run down to a 5.0t motor if you ever feel the need to move on up to mod. I feel that its price and performance is heads and shoulders above the rest.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Ask 10 people, get 10 different answers to this question I think.

tobyzhang

iTrader: (15)

more mosfet the smoother but less instantaneous punch I guess. For stock racing with 21.5 or 17.5 a hobby wing just stock might give you more punch than a more expensive unit. I think some esc like the new shurr speed can adjust drive frequency which can smooth out or ramp up punch level. I think it's just a preference thing and traction level. More traction, better the punchier esc. I think the lack of power though might come from the way you charge and which charger you use. Try something like thunder power charger that have the competition mode. Charge at 10A and to 8.44 will give you noticeably more power in the beginning.

NITROBUSA

iTrader: (2)

Everyone at my club run speed passion or hobbywing. Most esc are made by hobbywing to the specific manufactors specs.

Personaly I run viper, I like to be different and the viper have a lot more adjustment in blinky mode then any other esc atm.
Theres some who-haar going on about viper, people saying they should be illegal cause they allow more adjustment in blinky then others, but if they are so much better then why isn't everyone running them?

boostedracer

iTrader: (2)

I love and use the hobbywing xerun v3.1, it has a built in blinky mode, works perfect and is reliable, never ever had an esc issue with hobbywing.

cyanyde

For best performance, you'd want to get the ESC with the least internal resistance. Having said that, the difference is more or less negligible if the ESC is rated above 80a.

Before changing anything, do a simple drag race with the 'faster' guy to see if there is a real difference. This is of course assuming you have the optimum gear ratio.

Also, car setup for blinky race is a little different compared to modified or boosted race.

Belt tension is of primary importance. It has to be setup with just enough tension that it doesn't skip. The lesser the drag, the faster the car will go.

As for suspension geometry, the car must be setup to take corners by flowing through, not brake in n punch out. Less rear toe increases top speed but makes the rear a little loose so compensate with springs, camber & roll.

Also experiment with ackermaan. This not only changes steering characteristics but also causes the front end to scrub more or less. You will want the least drag but not at the expense of cornering speed.

Hope that helps.. Good luck!

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

Cleaned bearings, low friction belts, using a good wire and battery, as well as a good motor all make a difference. There are lots of good brands out for the esc and motors I personally run the speed passion stuff. I would have prefered to get an orca but that wasnt in the budget. Motors there are plently of fast ones. Option rotors do make a difference! Same for batteries a battery with low IR will go faster for longer. Although you are an experienced racer you may know all of that.

Also as someone on here mentioned toe will affect speed out of the corners and down the striaght. Some pro guys run a good amount lf front and rear toe. Ive learned that front toe over about 1.0 Is too much (situational) and for higher bite tracks 3.0 deg rear teo is too much (situational) this is for my car and driving style after all. However it does make a difference. Also make sure you are not spinning your tires. Or that the car has too much grip those could also affect speed.

NEED-MORE-SPEED

iTrader: (11)

I agree with TheCaptain getting up to speed running "Blinky" Class. There are so many variables that take account how much speed your car carries, straight line or corner speed. Cleaned bearings, free drivetrain, toe-in & toe-out (set-up), properly soldered connections, batteries, motors, gearing and body. I don't think running "ONE CERTAIN" kind of speedo will offer more straight line speed than others as once set in "Blinky" it is what it is. However I will say some ESC's offer different power band feels and will come down to personal preference.

I run with several fast guys in which, do place in top 10 at big races on the regular and they all run different ESC's (Orion, Speed Passion, Hobbywing Just Stock, LRP, ORCA, Viper and many other different brand ESC's) The ESC of choice comes down to the reliability IMO and the feel of what you like. There are very few racers at the two local tracks I run at, that run the same ESC's, everyone has different brands for the most part and we all are fairly equal in straight line speed.

So to answer your question almost all your popular speedo's will work just fine "Running Blinky". Finding your speed loss I would look at the following, (Gearing & Timing, possibly motor, free drivetrain and most importantly your set-up).

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

Unfortunately, I don't think is what he wants to hear. We all want to find out that it was something really easy, and not require a lot of work. Oh I forgot to mention earlier cleaning the belts (yes the belt itself) and the pulleys also makes a huge difference.

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Not a direct answer to OP question, but make sure the sensor circuit is working properly. Recently I've had a speedo with a bad sensor pin that affected motor top end. Low end seemed fine, but once at a certain RPM the motor deployed the chute. Took a while to figure out.

NEED-MORE-SPEED

iTrader: (11)

Another good point - There isn't one-step fix/solution getting the necessary speed running blinky. From my experience it all adds up..... The perfect analogy would be: 100 pennies equals - cashing in for a dollar bill

Running Carpet: As you mentioned the belts and pulleys - After every run I check the front pulley and lay-shaft pulleys as they seem to collect the notorious carpet tumbleweed which adds resistance to the drivetrain. And after a long weekend of racing I do remove all pulleys, clean the belts and all pulleys as you mentioned. This is just a couple penny's that adds up to that dollar bill.