Electric f1 to nitro conversion.
#16
The kf01 is 1/10, is it not? And that is very close to fitting everything under a modern f1 body, but 1/8 may be more durable on the streets, I'll just have to see what I can do without having to machine or print parts. I have access to solid works just can't use it very well yet. I'm thinking a rally car might suit me better at the moment and I'll continue to work on this f1 car in the background.
Mantisworx that car you made looks great, did you start from buggy chassis as you suggested?
Mantisworx that car you made looks great, did you start from buggy chassis as you suggested?
#17
The kf01 is 1/10, is it not? And that is very close to fitting everything under a modern f1 body, but 1/8 may be more durable on the streets, I'll just have to see what I can do without having to machine or print parts. I have access to solid works just can't use it very well yet. I'm thinking a rally car might suit me better at the moment and I'll continue to work on this f1 car in the background.
Mantisworx that car you made looks great, did you start from buggy chassis as you suggested?
Mantisworx that car you made looks great, did you start from buggy chassis as you suggested?
The pods on the KF01 are really wide, trust me when i say it will not fit. the modern pods are very narrow and tuck under where as the KF pods are wide and straight down. Watch the vid and notice how i have everything tucked in as much as possible and it still barely fit.Even at 1/8 scale its going to be a really tough fit but I am going to figure out how to make it work!! maybe even a marine watercooled head using some sort of pump!! who knows but its a goal project for me!
I used a short course dif and then machined custom arms and pretty much everything else. Standard F104 front end. 10th scale buggy dimensions are really close to 1/8 F1 so it would be a good base to start with.
#18
#20
#21
Hey MantisWorx, I posted that photo and a few more on the Kyosho Bring The KF01 To The USA thread but they were removed.
If you do a Google search for Kyosho KF01 then click on images you'll find some trick stuff. When you see something you like click on the pictures orginal link. You may find what your looking for in some of the articles. Good luck my friend.
There's a picture of this Lotus sitting on a log of wood without the body.
If you do a Google search for Kyosho KF01 then click on images you'll find some trick stuff. When you see something you like click on the pictures orginal link. You may find what your looking for in some of the articles. Good luck my friend.
There's a picture of this Lotus sitting on a log of wood without the body.
#22
I too would like to have it all under the cowl, but I would make an exception to have kimi's lotus. Maybe you could devise a way to mount the engine in an angle to get the cooling fins under the cowl, or swap it out for a flatter 4 stroke as Nolan farmer has done with his f201.
Sorry I can't post the pic but maybe Nolan will chime in.
Sorry I can't post the pic but maybe Nolan will chime in.
#23
I too would like to have it all under the cowl, but I would make an exception to have kimi's lotus. Maybe you could devise a way to mount the engine in an angle to get the cooling fins under the cowl, or swap it out for a flatter 4 stroke as Nolan farmer has done with his f201.
Sorry I can't post the pic but maybe Nolan will chime in.
Sorry I can't post the pic but maybe Nolan will chime in.
#24
Still have a few prototypes left.
I decided to take the bull by the horns in the same manner the 3Racing F201 came to fruition. An F104/FK01 type F1 is child's play. Stay tuned Kyosho fans!
I decided to take the bull by the horns in the same manner the 3Racing F201 came to fruition. An F104/FK01 type F1 is child's play. Stay tuned Kyosho fans!
#25
#26
Well, i just happen to have an F201!! I did some research and came up with the OS FS-30 which is the replacement for the FS-26 he used. I can machine and fab just about everything else but i am a little confused on how to mount up the clutch assembly since that engine is designed for airplanes.
Although i'm assuming being a plane engine, it would get hot in a car with the lack of wind from both the prop and flying.
#27
The 26 is discontinued and the 30 is its replacement. There are many ways to cool it off, I will cross that bridge when i get there!!
#28
Hello
I would like to recreate an f1 car that will be driven around my street or in carparks. The only problem is that I can only find electric tamiya ones and well, electric has no soul and does not suit an f1 car. And I might have a .18 nitro engine I can use, saving me from buying pricey electronics.
I have seen an f201 on here fitted with a four stroke and I was thinking it would be a fun project to fit a f104 (maybe f104w) with a nitro engine. Any ideas on how to go about it?
I do plan on using this as well so it has to function, no use in an rc car cluttering a shelf is there?
I would like to recreate an f1 car that will be driven around my street or in carparks. The only problem is that I can only find electric tamiya ones and well, electric has no soul and does not suit an f1 car. And I might have a .18 nitro engine I can use, saving me from buying pricey electronics.
I have seen an f201 on here fitted with a four stroke and I was thinking it would be a fun project to fit a f104 (maybe f104w) with a nitro engine. Any ideas on how to go about it?
I do plan on using this as well so it has to function, no use in an rc car cluttering a shelf is there?
Now you should buy a body with the largest pontoons and widest air scoop possible (probably a mid/late '90s style F1 body), some body mounts and front and rear wings. Dremel the sheet and the front of the car so it is not much wider than the front suspension mounts and drill some holes to fit your front wing to. Now mount your rear wing. Cut out your body and just place it other your chassis so it lines up with the wheels and wings, ensure it is centred, now get a permanent marker and outline the body onto the chassis.
Use this as a template to dremel out the rest of your chassis. Now you can get an engine (You could go for a .12 or .15 or possibly even an .18 if you wanted to, its your own chassis ), exhaust and engine mount and figure out how you want to position it all on your chassis. Mark holes the chassis for engine mount and drill out holes on these marks.
Get some body mounts that are long enough to reach from the chassis to the pontoons on the body (you'd probably want to position them as wide as possible to keep as much space availible as possible on the chassis), again, mark drilling points for the body mounts and drill those marks.
Now do the same for your servo mounts for both throttle and steering. Now you have the rest of the space for a fuel tank. I'd personally choose the largest tank I could possibly fit without it popping out of the shell, but if you want to keep weight minimal and you're not worried about run time, go for a smaller one. Again, mark drilling points for mounts and drill your way through.
Finally cut out your body the fit around engine and body posts and viola
It probably wouldn't be that hard, but it will be a pain in the ass to find all the right screws and nuts for everything, but great patience brings great rewards. If you're gonna use my guide above, if you only use the body you originally chose for the project, your chassis would be entirely sealed from rocks and dirt , but if you want to save weight or change your body in the future, dremel out any remaining parts of the chassis that isn't holding anything.
I haven't done this myself, I just read your post and I have a good imagination . I may do this myself one day, but not any time soon, so I can't guide you if any problems occur.