Tamiya TB Evo 6
#946
My Evo6 has been somewhat competitive in all the races it's entered... That being said pick your favorite anodizing color and go with that
#947
Tech Master
The evo6 is good in Blinky 17.5 but if you intend to go with a faster motor I would consider a belt car such as the TRF419. The Evo is really nice to drive, I and the other guys I know with them have had no issues with the car other than the c-hubs are not that strong (You can run the 418 ones instead, or just buy the square versions).
Out of the two, I would say the 419 is overall a better car due to its versatility with quicker motors, but the Evo 6 black edition can be bought for a good price if you look around.
Out of the two, I would say the 419 is overall a better car due to its versatility with quicker motors, but the Evo 6 black edition can be bought for a good price if you look around.
#948
You chose your posting times wisely to avoid that kind of answers. Those people sleep when you post. I am at the antipodes hence my answers are upside down to theirs.
#949
I have both aTB04 and a EVO6 and I would not recommend a TB04 to anyone this car is slow in USGT or VTA it was several tenths off the pace. I race a EVO6 in USGT very competitive even a TB03 is a better race car.
I have 2 of those metal drive gears for a EVO6 or a TB04 if anyone wants to buy them.
I have 2 of those metal drive gears for a EVO6 or a TB04 if anyone wants to buy them.
What would be the main differences that cause that, in your experience?
In asking that I consider the main complaints levelled at the Evo6 here, regarding the gear mesh, the drivetrain, the chassis flex and coupling problems with the rear drive, gear casing misalignments and so on. Are these problems present on the TB04 as well?
#950
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I built an early TB04 PRO (first version, not the PRO II), and it took a good amount of time to shim and test fit all gears for optimum mesh (center gears, front/rear pinion/rings, internal spider gears). Just building it per kit instructions looks like a recipe for frustration because the gears float on the shafts too much. You have to understand bevel gear design and pitch cone apex positioning to get it just right.
The chassis (glass-filled nylon, not carbon-reinforced) was badly warped and I followed CraigMBA's lead, using a heat gun, clamps, and a flat surface to straighten it out.
Even with the chassis (mostly) flattened, I still had a very small amount of binding between the center transmission shaft and rear gearbox input shaft until I installed the rear chassis stiffeners. It's not binding, but very close to it.
For some reason the gearbox casings on the "A" parts tree were not molded well, and the outdrive bearings floated up and down (but not fore/aft) a fraction of a millimeter. I had to add some thin tape to take up the gap. The spare "A" parts tree I bought to rebuild my TB03 was even worse and required more attention. I don't know if they had a bad run of parts, if the molds are getting old, or what.
The rest of the kit went together pretty well. No complaints about the suspension - the PRO I uses the same parts as TB03/TA05V2/TRF416/TRF417. The steering uses ball bearings throughout; there are no flange tubes like the TB03 -- this is a huge improvement. The dampers and towers are still very nice.
From building an early TB04 PRO my impression is TB04s require special attention to get the most out of them. Based on casually following this thread for the past year, it sounds like the same care has to go into building a TB EVO 6 as well. Shimming all gears, dealing with gear box molding imperfections (maybe?), and eliminating some center/rear shaft binding are all needed. On the plus side, it looks like the chassis plates are perfectly flat, and the EVO 6 motor mount gives you more gearing options than the TB04.
My build thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...howtopic=75566
The chassis (glass-filled nylon, not carbon-reinforced) was badly warped and I followed CraigMBA's lead, using a heat gun, clamps, and a flat surface to straighten it out.
Even with the chassis (mostly) flattened, I still had a very small amount of binding between the center transmission shaft and rear gearbox input shaft until I installed the rear chassis stiffeners. It's not binding, but very close to it.
For some reason the gearbox casings on the "A" parts tree were not molded well, and the outdrive bearings floated up and down (but not fore/aft) a fraction of a millimeter. I had to add some thin tape to take up the gap. The spare "A" parts tree I bought to rebuild my TB03 was even worse and required more attention. I don't know if they had a bad run of parts, if the molds are getting old, or what.
The rest of the kit went together pretty well. No complaints about the suspension - the PRO I uses the same parts as TB03/TA05V2/TRF416/TRF417. The steering uses ball bearings throughout; there are no flange tubes like the TB03 -- this is a huge improvement. The dampers and towers are still very nice.
From building an early TB04 PRO my impression is TB04s require special attention to get the most out of them. Based on casually following this thread for the past year, it sounds like the same care has to go into building a TB EVO 6 as well. Shimming all gears, dealing with gear box molding imperfections (maybe?), and eliminating some center/rear shaft binding are all needed. On the plus side, it looks like the chassis plates are perfectly flat, and the EVO 6 motor mount gives you more gearing options than the TB04.
My build thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...howtopic=75566
#951
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
That comparison aside, in classes up to 13.5 (talking blinky here) I think the old Yokomo SD SSG would still give the Evo6/TB04 a good run for the money if not beat it outright. I run one of these (amongst many other oddities) in 21.5 and despite my 100g weight penalty, I still make the top three (agains modern belt cars like BD7 and Xray) so there you go. Not that you'd be able to find an SSG nowadays (though you'd really stray form the herd if you did).
Ultimately, hey, if you wanna give it a go, why the hell not? Get the Evo6 and show them what you're made of!
Ultimately, hey, if you wanna give it a go, why the hell not? Get the Evo6 and show them what you're made of!
#952
Yeah, that 3mm chassis was probably designed for foam.
What chassis is that? Looks like an SD, but with alloy bulkheads, did Yokomo make those?
What chassis is that? Looks like an SD, but with alloy bulkheads, did Yokomo make those?
#953
Yeah. LCG had those bulkheads.
#954
Tech Rookie
My 2 cents contribution...
I own a TB-04R and TB evo6 black, and I found the TB-04R easier to drive right out the box than the evo6. Evo6 rear is stepping out more unpredictably...still trying to fix that...
Otherwise gears are working pretty well for the time being, only issue I had is evo6 front diff direct drive bevel which died fast under heavy braking. I found bevel bearings a bit loose in diff case, so I added a turn of office tape around them and then its working like charm
To come back to EVO6/04r comparison, the sound of the 04r gear train is much more smoother and silent... Anyway love both cars !
I own a TB-04R and TB evo6 black, and I found the TB-04R easier to drive right out the box than the evo6. Evo6 rear is stepping out more unpredictably...still trying to fix that...
Otherwise gears are working pretty well for the time being, only issue I had is evo6 front diff direct drive bevel which died fast under heavy braking. I found bevel bearings a bit loose in diff case, so I added a turn of office tape around them and then its working like charm
To come back to EVO6/04r comparison, the sound of the 04r gear train is much more smoother and silent... Anyway love both cars !
#955
Tech Rookie
Is there any glass fiber o FRP chassis for the Tamiya TB EVO 6. Thanks
#956
Tech Initiate
20T bevel gear dust cover.
#957
Why would you want an FRP chassis? The stock chassis is already really soft.
#958
Tech Rookie
Exotek upgrade coming in
#959