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Tamiya TB Evo 6

Old 03-10-2016, 01:28 PM
  #1771  
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Exotek Aluminum Axles FTW!! Great stuff indeed..

I may have to look into the Alum outdrives. what sort of dremel work was required?
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:51 PM
  #1772  
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Originally Posted by OSherman
Exotek Aluminum Axles FTW!! Great stuff indeed..

I may have to look into the Alum outdrives. what sort of dremel work was required?

Cutting off this small portion and slightly reaming the hole on the spool shaft to allow pin to go through. Easy!
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:53 PM
  #1773  
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:31 PM
  #1774  
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cool, thanks.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:08 PM
  #1775  
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The twins ready for some carpet action the weekend at Bush River Raceway. Ready to see how the aluminum chassis work out. Only had to add 20g weight to the USGT car with a 6500 SMC, and 130g to the USVTA with a 5000 SMC.

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Old 03-19-2016, 11:52 PM
  #1776  
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Originally Posted by Simmi
Wow. Lots of exposed gears on that thing. Swept (or preferably, vacuumed) pavement only for that thing. One tiny grain of sand would be all it would take to ruin your race day.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:57 PM
  #1777  
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What's wrong with the stock carbon-reinforced-plastic lower diff cases? Are they still too flexible, or what?
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:22 AM
  #1778  
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After breaking 2 more upper bulkhead/diff cases yesterday, I really wish they would look at a new design for those.

Yes both times were direct sideways rear wheel hits on the wall, my fault and pretty hard hits. Just sucks that that's were it broke.

I can say the overall durability is great though. The bulkheads, the cvd axle and a bearing were the only casualtis.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:09 AM
  #1779  
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Hmm. Sounds like it's the upper diff case that needs replacing, not the lower.

Looking at my TB-04R, I have the camber links mounted in the innermost holes on the tabs coming off the sides of the upper diff cases. Are yours mounted further out? If so, the forces exerted on the camber links will have to pass through more plastic, which happens to be weakened by being full of holes. Maybe try relocating the inner mounting points as far inboard as you can, and see if you get the durability you need.

EDIT: As you can see in this picture of the underside of the upper diff case, only the innermost camber-link mounting hole is actually surrounded by a meaningful amount of plastic. The next hole out is probably still okay, but the outer two holes have no reinforcement at all. It would be best to use one of the inner two holes, and if the outer holes cause clearance problems with the camber links, just cut the outer holes off.


Last edited by fyrstormer; 03-29-2018 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:56 PM
  #1780  
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old trick from back in the day is inserting a set-screw in each of the 'empty holes'... thus, filling in the gaps.

obviously you don't want the setscrews to be too long and want them to sit subflush to the top mounting surface so that the adjacent ball-stud sit flat as normal..

on another note, i used this back in my Yokomo YR4 and HPI RS4 Pro3 days...

haven't had a single issue with the Tamiya plastics in this regard.
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:29 PM
  #1781  
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I wouldn't have thought the carbon-reinforced plastic would flex enough before breaking for the setscrews to add a meaningful amount of bracing against flex. However, if it works it works.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:59 AM
  #1782  
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Selling my still good aluminum chassis off of my USGT. The one on my USVTA car twisted like a wet noodle.

Car handles great with it. It helps tame the agressivness of the initial turn in.

I'm going to take the bent one to a metal shop and see if the can cut one from stainless.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14457135
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:52 AM
  #1783  
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Crickets on here lately. Did everyone sell their cars?!?

I normally only run VTA and USGT but this weekend I stepped up and ran 17.5as well. (3 Classes in one day is too much for me I have found).

I had hoped to just stay out of everyone's way and didn't anticipate running very well. Much to my surprise, the car was unbelievably easy to drive. Never so much as touched a pipe in the main.

At the end of the day, both Evo's brought home a win (VTA and 17.5) and ended up breaking out of the USGT main after qualifying #1 due to a nasty head on hit by a wrecked driver trying to get pointed back the right direction.

I have a few different chassis and I like them all. The Evo/Exo's still continue to be crazy easy to drive and respond very well to tuning. Awesome cars.
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:03 AM
  #1784  
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Originally Posted by RollingChicane2
Crickets on here lately. Did everyone sell their cars?!?

I normally only run VTA and USGT but this weekend I stepped up and ran 17.5as well. (3 Classes in one day is too much for me I have found).

I had hoped to just stay out of everyone's way and didn't anticipate running very well. Much to my surprise, the car was unbelievably easy to drive. Never so much as touched a pipe in the main.

At the end of the day, both Evo's brought home a win (VTA and 17.5) and ended up breaking out of the USGT main after qualifying #1 due to a nasty head on hit by a wrecked driver trying to get pointed back the right direction.

I have a few different chassis and I like them all. The Evo/Exo's still continue to be crazy easy to drive and respond very well to tuning. Awesome cars.
congrats good guy

i hadn't much luck last weekend, ended up only in 46th position of 61 entries due to very very good competitors and some bad luck with my exo6 could only finish 1 of my qualifier heats and 2 of my finals, but this how it is. next time i will be back in the A's
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:27 AM
  #1785  
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If they have sold them, they aren't listing them. I'm trying to track down at least one more, if not 2 more chassis. Can't find any.
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