STOCK motor forum
04-18-2005, 04:06 PM
#2071
fiddle stick is CRAP!!!
if you take 3 measures you'll get 3 DIFFERENT measures.....
even the dust onto the endbell can change the tension measured by the fiddle stick.....
if you really want a precision device, try the integy spring dyno.....
or simply try spring combos and you'll find what really work for your motor.....
if you take 3 measures you'll get 3 DIFFERENT measures.....
even the dust onto the endbell can change the tension measured by the fiddle stick.....
if you really want a precision device, try the integy spring dyno.....
or simply try spring combos and you'll find what really work for your motor.....
04-18-2005, 04:19 PM
#2074
you can bend slightly.....
i.e: you can't convert a 90º to 180º.......you can get a red spring harder, and it will work like a purple one....
i.e: you can't convert a 90º to 180º.......you can get a red spring harder, and it will work like a purple one....
04-22-2005, 04:38 AM
#2076
Tech Initiate
anyone seen/is using the new fantom v2 stock motors? i presume these would be legal as it is not a hybrid as its all built by fantom and it has a timing slot so it is locked 24degrees timing. i race in australia and we follow roar rules so im interested in what people think about this design and its legality. also if any of the tuners Br00d, EA, Paradigm etc are going to tune it?
http://fantomracing.com/catalog/index.php?prod_id=389
http://fantomracing.com/catalog/index.php?prod_id=389
04-22-2005, 07:02 AM
#2077
Originally posted by karndriver
anyone seen/is using the new fantom v2 stock motors? i presume these would be legal as it is not a hybrid as its all built by fantom and it has a timing slot so it is locked 24degrees timing. i race in australia and we follow roar rules so im interested in what people think about this design and its legality. also if any of the tuners Br00d, EA, Paradigm etc are going to tune it?
http://fantomracing.com/catalog/index.php?prod_id=389
anyone seen/is using the new fantom v2 stock motors? i presume these would be legal as it is not a hybrid as its all built by fantom and it has a timing slot so it is locked 24degrees timing. i race in australia and we follow roar rules so im interested in what people think about this design and its legality. also if any of the tuners Br00d, EA, Paradigm etc are going to tune it?
http://fantomracing.com/catalog/index.php?prod_id=389
04-22-2005, 09:59 AM
#2079
wow! 59.99 is ridiculous!
04-22-2005, 11:57 AM
#2081
Laydown brush hoods
04-22-2005, 04:14 PM
#2082
Tech Initiate
shutdown! just when you thought it was safe to race a v2 legally.... just have to wait for orion to stop twidling their thumbs and make a GOOD stock motor.....thanks for the clarification guys
07-14-2005, 03:52 AM
#2083
Tech Adept
Originally posted by Big Jim
CALIBRATING THE CE TURBO DYNO
This first part is from DynoMoHum.
Back to the calibration business....
I have found that it takes $10.06 to get my TD to read 10 ounce inches.... that's a roll of quarters, one nickel, and one penny. I had a wrapped roll of quarters, balanced on one end, using my fingers to steady it, making sure not to put any downward force on the roll when I balanced it between my fingers. The roll won't fit horizontally between the ends of the cradle, so balancing it is the only option, and really works pretty good.
I get 9.7 with just the roll of quarters, when I add a nickel and a penny it comes up to 10.0.
According to my digital scale, my roll of quarters weighs 8.0 oz. or 226 grams.
When I add the nickel and the penny the scale reads 8.3 oz. or 234 grams. The nickel weighs 5 grams and the penny 3, or something close to that...
If my measurement of 1.25 was correct then my dyno is off by .3 inch ounces near 10 ounce inches. Hard to say if my measurement was off or my dyno is just off a little... It will be interesting to hear from more of you about how you calibrate testing of the torque sensor.... it looks to me like the center of the bars on either side of the slave motor are about 1.25" from the center of the motor. I found that 5 quarters and a little piece of wire used as a hook weigh just about one ounce (somewhere between 28 and 29 grams on my digital scale). I hung the quarters that were taped together with a wire hook off the correct side of the dyno cradle/pod... The dyno read 1.2 sometimes, and 1.3 other times... So it seems to me the reading I got was around 1.25... one ounce 1.25" from the center... 1.25 ounce inches???
OK, here's the procedure I used (Big Jim).
You will need a Sonic Fiddle Stick (see my web-site).
When I say, "calibrate" you obviously need something to calibrate it to. You can either use the figures I mentioned in the above post, change the calibration to match your racing buddies so you CAN compare dynos or just check it with your Fiddle Stick to make sure your dyno stays in calibration to the way you got it.
I have attached a couple of drawings to make it clearer.
1. Turn the power off to the dyno before you start anything. Next, measure the back cradle support bar and scribe a line indicating the middle of the length. This is the point where you will take your reading from with the Fiddle stick. Your measurement might vary from unit to unit. It depends on how many spacers are needed to set the cradle properly which determines how far apart your cradle arms are. This is why I just don?t give you the measurement. (see VIEW A on attachment)
2. Now you?ll have to find something that is square or rectangle large enough to use as a sight to make sure your Fiddle Stick is as close to vertical when you take your readings as possible. Taking readings when you stick is angled might change the accuracy of your procedure. Some objects you can use are large books, T-Square, 90 degree triangle, tall spray can or your power supply if the sides are 90 degrees. I used an aluminum block. Keep your Fiddle Stick parallel to this object as you take your readings. (see VIEW B on attachment)
Set everything up so you can see the Fiddle Stick easily as well as the dyno information panel at the same time.
Now look at the attachment #1 if you have any trouble picturing this whole thing in your mind.
3. Power up the dyno and zero the torque sensor keeping it on the ?uncouple motors? screen. Put your Fiddle Stick on the mark that you made in the back bar. Write down your torque readings at every 1 FS unit increment. No need to go higher than 7 units.
NOTE: The torque sensor is very sensitive so try to hold the Fiddle Stick as steady as you can. Keep the Fiddle Stick as straight vertical as you can, using your tall square object as a guide. I used a picture of a spray can in the drawing.
If you want to change the calibration, see my next post as I can only post one attachment per post.
BIG JIM
CHANGING THE CALIBRATION
The mounting for the torque sensor is just one screw. The hole for this screw in the sensor is oversized. The calibration will change as you tighten the screw with the sensor in different positions. When you try different positions, at all times is the sensor to remain parallel to the cradle support plate before you check it.
And be careful of those little wires.
The position of mine is illustrated in the drawing. The hole is nowhere near that much oversized but I did that for clarity.
The only thing I've tested so far is that if you push the sensor down the readings get higher.
The rest is pretty self-explanatory.
I had to scrunch it up a bit. The site will only take 30KB for the attachment.
See the next post.
CALIBRATING THE CE TURBO DYNO
This first part is from DynoMoHum.
Back to the calibration business....
I have found that it takes $10.06 to get my TD to read 10 ounce inches.... that's a roll of quarters, one nickel, and one penny. I had a wrapped roll of quarters, balanced on one end, using my fingers to steady it, making sure not to put any downward force on the roll when I balanced it between my fingers. The roll won't fit horizontally between the ends of the cradle, so balancing it is the only option, and really works pretty good.
I get 9.7 with just the roll of quarters, when I add a nickel and a penny it comes up to 10.0.
According to my digital scale, my roll of quarters weighs 8.0 oz. or 226 grams.
When I add the nickel and the penny the scale reads 8.3 oz. or 234 grams. The nickel weighs 5 grams and the penny 3, or something close to that...
If my measurement of 1.25 was correct then my dyno is off by .3 inch ounces near 10 ounce inches. Hard to say if my measurement was off or my dyno is just off a little... It will be interesting to hear from more of you about how you calibrate testing of the torque sensor.... it looks to me like the center of the bars on either side of the slave motor are about 1.25" from the center of the motor. I found that 5 quarters and a little piece of wire used as a hook weigh just about one ounce (somewhere between 28 and 29 grams on my digital scale). I hung the quarters that were taped together with a wire hook off the correct side of the dyno cradle/pod... The dyno read 1.2 sometimes, and 1.3 other times... So it seems to me the reading I got was around 1.25... one ounce 1.25" from the center... 1.25 ounce inches???
OK, here's the procedure I used (Big Jim).
You will need a Sonic Fiddle Stick (see my web-site).
When I say, "calibrate" you obviously need something to calibrate it to. You can either use the figures I mentioned in the above post, change the calibration to match your racing buddies so you CAN compare dynos or just check it with your Fiddle Stick to make sure your dyno stays in calibration to the way you got it.
I have attached a couple of drawings to make it clearer.
1. Turn the power off to the dyno before you start anything. Next, measure the back cradle support bar and scribe a line indicating the middle of the length. This is the point where you will take your reading from with the Fiddle stick. Your measurement might vary from unit to unit. It depends on how many spacers are needed to set the cradle properly which determines how far apart your cradle arms are. This is why I just don?t give you the measurement. (see VIEW A on attachment)
2. Now you?ll have to find something that is square or rectangle large enough to use as a sight to make sure your Fiddle Stick is as close to vertical when you take your readings as possible. Taking readings when you stick is angled might change the accuracy of your procedure. Some objects you can use are large books, T-Square, 90 degree triangle, tall spray can or your power supply if the sides are 90 degrees. I used an aluminum block. Keep your Fiddle Stick parallel to this object as you take your readings. (see VIEW B on attachment)
Set everything up so you can see the Fiddle Stick easily as well as the dyno information panel at the same time.
Now look at the attachment #1 if you have any trouble picturing this whole thing in your mind.
3. Power up the dyno and zero the torque sensor keeping it on the ?uncouple motors? screen. Put your Fiddle Stick on the mark that you made in the back bar. Write down your torque readings at every 1 FS unit increment. No need to go higher than 7 units.
NOTE: The torque sensor is very sensitive so try to hold the Fiddle Stick as steady as you can. Keep the Fiddle Stick as straight vertical as you can, using your tall square object as a guide. I used a picture of a spray can in the drawing.
If you want to change the calibration, see my next post as I can only post one attachment per post.
BIG JIM
CHANGING THE CALIBRATION
The mounting for the torque sensor is just one screw. The hole for this screw in the sensor is oversized. The calibration will change as you tighten the screw with the sensor in different positions. When you try different positions, at all times is the sensor to remain parallel to the cradle support plate before you check it.
And be careful of those little wires.
The position of mine is illustrated in the drawing. The hole is nowhere near that much oversized but I did that for clarity.
The only thing I've tested so far is that if you push the sensor down the readings get higher.
The rest is pretty self-explanatory.
I had to scrunch it up a bit. The site will only take 30KB for the attachment.
See the next post.
My dyno read RPM's just about the same as a couple others but torque is always low. I've rebuilt the slave etc. and nothing seems to help. I can send it out to get it calibrated but would much rather learn to do this myself to keep it calibrated in the future.
Any help would be great!
Thanks!
07-15-2005, 10:23 AM
#2084
Tech Adept
Anyone? I know someone out there is running a CE TurboDyno 
07-15-2005, 03:41 PM
#2085
my thoughts.....
With what ive read so far,and since i just bash.....
1) get a decent stock motor
2) put it the car
3) run it
I dont see the big deal in all this dyno,balanceing, bullstuff....
Even when we raced legends, i didnt do all that, did pretty well, but HAD FUN!
1) get a decent stock motor
2) put it the car
3) run it
I dont see the big deal in all this dyno,balanceing, bullstuff....
Even when we raced legends, i didnt do all that, did pretty well, but HAD FUN!