Q for serious racers - are there still "unobtainium" motors and batteries?
#16
Wow I remember the 1/12th scale days of 1700 SCE's, what a nightmare. At Cleveland one year I had issues with dumping with 45 seconds to go and took my motor to a pro I raced with regularly to get it tuned (Trinity Team motor not off the shelf) and was told my motor was better than his to go find better batteries. Being a privateer that could sometimes get good gear I was hosed.
The worst one though was at the 92 offroad nationals. I managed to qualify I believe 31st in 2 wheel mod, for sure in the D main, but found out later that while the pros had the same style tire we were running, they had the first batch of the super soft compound pro line tires. While the rest of us were trimming the ribs out of the harder tires praying for a little bit of extra traction. If I had a set of those tires, who knows how I would have fared.
Now that I am back into it, I am liking the more level playing field.
Chris
The worst one though was at the 92 offroad nationals. I managed to qualify I believe 31st in 2 wheel mod, for sure in the D main, but found out later that while the pros had the same style tire we were running, they had the first batch of the super soft compound pro line tires. While the rest of us were trimming the ribs out of the harder tires praying for a little bit of extra traction. If I had a set of those tires, who knows how I would have fared.
Now that I am back into it, I am liking the more level playing field.
Chris
#17
There are definitely things you can do outside of the motor and battery to make your car faster down the straight.
Making sure your bearings are good, gear mesh is set perfect, belt tension is correct (including not too loose). A good fan setup to keep the motor at optimum temperature but still drawing as little from the battery as possible.
Interestingly I've tried a couple of cars back to back with my BD7 and nothing I've tried is as quick in a straight line, and no I haven't tried an Awesomatix .
Making sure your bearings are good, gear mesh is set perfect, belt tension is correct (including not too loose). A good fan setup to keep the motor at optimum temperature but still drawing as little from the battery as possible.
Interestingly I've tried a couple of cars back to back with my BD7 and nothing I've tried is as quick in a straight line, and no I haven't tried an Awesomatix .
Just curious since the BD7 is the typical 2 belt design common to like 95% of the high performance touring cars out there. So unless they use some sort of exclusive "super slippery" belt and diff pulleys, the only difference left would be the ball bearings.
#18
+1000 Now, when racing around with my buddy at the track, we actually get tired before our batteries run out from running 20+ minutes continuously. And THEN, no motor cleanup or redoing needed!!! I love it!
#19
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
The worst one though was at the 92 offroad nationals. I managed to qualify I believe 31st in 2 wheel mod, for sure in the D main, but found out later that while the pros had the same style tire we were running, they had the first batch of the super soft compound pro line tires. While the rest of us were trimming the ribs out of the harder tires praying for a little bit of extra traction. If I had a set of those tires, who knows how I would have fared.
#20
Traction is king, especially with everything motor battery wise being so even right now. If you have good tires that let you lay down the motor, you are going to appear to be way faster everywhere on the track.
I am only 4 weeks back in after 16+ years off, it has been a steep learning curve with the new motor battery setups. While run time is forever, these motors appear super sensitive to timing and gearing compared to gear from days gone by.
cgolf
I am only 4 weeks back in after 16+ years off, it has been a steep learning curve with the new motor battery setups. While run time is forever, these motors appear super sensitive to timing and gearing compared to gear from days gone by.
cgolf
#21
Tech Regular
So with the same exact gearing, motor, battery and electronics, you've determined that your BD7 has been faster than most anything else out there?
Just curious since the BD7 is the typical 2 belt design common to like 95% of the high performance touring cars out there. So unless they use some sort of exclusive "super slippery" belt and diff pulleys, the only difference left would be the ball bearings.
Just curious since the BD7 is the typical 2 belt design common to like 95% of the high performance touring cars out there. So unless they use some sort of exclusive "super slippery" belt and diff pulleys, the only difference left would be the ball bearings.
I also don't know if it's all BD7's or just mine, it's really odd.
#22
Chris
#23
Tech Regular
It is the full range, noticeable low down on carpet but also top speed on ⅛ IC tracks.
#27
Tech Regular
I tend to use the same camber and toe on everything, 1.5d F and 2.0d R camber and 1.0d F and 3.0d R toe. Though it is a fair point, I have run 2.5d R toe on the BD7 and it seemed even quicker. I never put the rears on a toe gauge so it could deffo be differences between what the manufacturers call 3.0d.
Somebody recently told me that when their T4'14 was supposed to have 2.5d rear toe it actually said 3.0 on the gauges, so yeah, that's something I never checked fully.
Somebody recently told me that when their T4'14 was supposed to have 2.5d rear toe it actually said 3.0 on the gauges, so yeah, that's something I never checked fully.