shiston

iTrader: (3)

lol pm me the link or post it here. You just got that thing. I'm surprised, especially from xray. So what now? You gonna give another shaft the same a go or is there something different to try?

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

:O years of racing on my car, and I don't even know how that would happen. that shaft is mangled.

974design

Hi, a link please

OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

How far do you have the flywheel shimmed away from the engine case?

johnsen-dk

Zero , no shims. And that has not any influencene on the preload. As the nut with the thread is thight all the way to the flywheel. Meaning that something is not right , the clutch pad , or the fly blocks are to thick. Ot the thread is to short

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

I've seen it happen more than 5 times and happened to me once. Still worth running the hollow shaft, car is so much more free

OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

You're right sorry I was thinking of something else when I replied to this. Did you end up figuring out what was wrong?

johnsen-dk

Hi
No , have made same question on xray forum , maybe Mario would answer but Nothing so far. Using a unkown silver spring (Think Its cap) and the clutch is working super.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Re: Front Roll Centre

Just noticed that the manual says to have front roll centre set at +0.5mm, but the standard setup sheet says -0.5mm. Which one is it?

Ran my NT1 Pro today and really struggling with turn in, has heaps of mid corner steering. Tried front brace, changed caster but that took away on power steering.

Thanks
Andrew

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

That car always had a slight push IMHO.

Phil Trotta

iTrader: (4)

Do you have the lower front arms foward or back with the spacer ?

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Arms arm forward with spacer in behind. Tried different front roll centre today as well as some increased front bar. But biggest improvement was when I swapped out front and rear diffs to ones with thicker oils. Took some steering away but was a lot more planted and turn in was better.

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Front upper arm pin all the way up, and lower arm with spacer in front of arm 2mm back.
Some, most guys even cut the rear of the rear arms 2mm to move them back. I never cut the rear, but wanted to try.

MKAH

Hello,

i had this Problem too.
I Think the Reason are old Pictures in the Manual with the wrong mass.
I have shortend the Cone so i come on 9.7mm for the Flywheel Nut.
After that i shimmed the Clutch Gap to 0.6mm an the Endplay to 0.1mm.
Preeload for the Clutch Spring on 0.5mm.
After set ,setup Clutch on Track,

Greetings
MKAH

Phil Trotta

iTrader: (4)

Push lower front arms back. This gives you more Ackerman. More turn in
Try this.
Will Definately feel better

.7 front
Bar ground down to .5




Almost everyone runs 150 000 front oil diff and 60 000 rear