bds81175

iTrader: (20)

Why!?! What are you lap times? Is it lack of power that is causing you to lose races? Until you have a good feel for what is causing you to be slower don't do ANYTHING but drive more and get more familiar with the car and the track. Races are won in the corners, not on the straight away.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

for $100 you could probably get that car down to 1500 grams.

Tbone17

iTrader: (10)

I'd be interested in knowing what it would take, out of curiosity if nothing else.

Tbone17

iTrader: (10)

Assuming that is in response to my post. The reason I asked about starting over with a different car is that I have a B5 rear motor available; seems many people say they are superior to the mid motor on low to mid traction.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Please excuse my wording here. But yes, a rear motor can be better on medium or low bite, or even high bite. That's of course if you don't have any idea on how to setup a car. If you do, a mid motor car in my opinion will always be a faster car into and through the corner. The mid motor car can almost get off the corner as hard, as long as you again have the setup correct.

Is the mid car more sensitive to setup? I'd say yes. Once you get it close, to me, the mid motor car seems to be more rewarding.

More of my opinion? SLRC chassis, cut the cross braces, get the car to 1550 and put in a hotter motor to over come the weight disadvantage. I have no problem sharing my medium grip setup with you, but on paper and real life, my car is far from a "box stock" B5m.

81 tooth spur should never be used on a mid motor car, only the 78 for mod, and 66/69/72 for 17.5.

Again, these are all my opinions.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Socket is mostly correct about his opinions It seems that AE has chosen the RM car for some outdoor racing in the US. Nick Wautlet recently posted his setup sheet. Socket is correct, the RM car is "easier" to setup. I run on med-high and high bite tracks and prefer the MM car. Mostly for their flat jumping and lower rear bite.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Kody is really an astro guy? lol. Nice job on 2nd on the grid. He pretty much crushed Cav.

VegasHB

Many say the mid motor car is a little harder to drive but from my experience it's massively easier to drive. Our local indoor track is medium bite clay but I find the MM very forgiving and easy to catch. You don't have the massive pendulum affect of the rear motor pulling you around corner exits. Just a different feel but much easier once you're use to it. Stick with MM in almost any aspect unless it's just a silty, dusty mess of a track...even then I'd still give the MM a go and let it drift a little.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Haha, no point in the MM vs RM debate. Most people who say MM works everywhere dont run on they types of track that RM shines. I have seen a local make the A main in stock and do very well with a clapped out B5RM. In the end, it is all about the driver

MiG77

I dont know how you setup your rear motor car, but atleast how I setup RM car you don't have any pendulum effect (it is generally front wheels that lose traction first)?

Generally agree what Socket said, but IMO for most people it is irrelevant what car you have. It is all about how it is setup. IE RM can be very agile (COG moved forward) if setup so and MM car can have massive rear wheel traction (If COG moved backwards). It is about extremes where other types car cannot do, but making setups like that is very rare.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

The biggest thing is a small lipo. That by itself will get you almost there. After that a set of AKA evo wheels/tires would be worth another 40g. When the B5 series came out I weighed everything. Aluminum wheel nuts save 6, turnbuckles save a bit, aluminum screws were worth 20 or so I think, a slipper eliminator is worth 8-10. On top of all that there is some plastic that you could trim off the car without a negative impact to the way the car handles. The bottom line is the lipo and wheels/tires can get you there for around $100.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Lets put this RM vs mm into perspective. Cav can beat all of you with a RM car, thus you have not yet maximized the potential of the RM car.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

You named dropped walnuts and didn't tell the full truth here.

Yes he ran a rear motor car at hot rod, yes he was hauling ass.

And yes he got beat by a mid motor car.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

We all go round N round about this but I know that we experimented for a year and did all sorts of testing and found that the B5M out performs the B5R from wet dirt to sugared blue groove. We also did this with the RB6....same thing. We used about 6 cars and the drivers ranged from Sponsored drivers to me (not fast, not sponsored). We compared feel, lap times, race wins, series wins etc. I'm the first to admit that it wasn't very scientific and there was no way to prove the setups were all equal. All I will say is that there are no more RM cars on our track. I'll also agree that the fast guys still won all the time and when we got the cars all dialed in the lap times were still close except for the fastest guys. They really had significantly faster laps with MM when the track was wet. When traction is high I think its more about driver preference and style. If I give my sponsored buddy a clapped out rear motor car that has an ok set up on it he's still going to lap me at least once unless he's pounded a six pack first (which i do not condone at the track).

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I didnt gain any time or consistency with B5M. But, I like how it feels on indoor clay tracks. Plus, I hate tearing up motors in RM configurations. But, if i start racing on outdoor tracks that are poorly maintained with inconsistent traction, I would run a B5 RM. Just because it is easier and less tire work. The tuning window for the MM is smaller and when the traction greatly changes throughout the day, the MM sufferers unless you are really on top of tires. The casual show up and race and go home guy will be better off with an RM car, imo.