sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I like the wide deck. My CupRacer is too narrow and looks kinda

I also got the BSR M-Rage (was it?) which I will build over the winter holiday. Will see how this 15+yr old design works with my side-by-side NiCd's. It's also wide and has the 6 sub-c cutouts. lol

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

I agree on the chassis being a little too wide. Narrow it just a little. Would like to see a little better battery mount option as well.

All that said, I don't think you'll see any more work being done on this car. It just didn't sell all that well.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I just use packing tape in the middle of the battery pack. Works well. I do the same on my CupRacer.

But my Lipo is overhanging the lower deck by a mm or so already. Why you'd want it narrower I am

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Woot!

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Been testing the Shimizu 55mm tires. Very good, but now that I can drive with more punch with additional traction I need to get a better ESC than the TBLE02S as it appears it is not consistent in the mid-band speeds while running 17.5T.



This is my SabreFD (FWD) but did the same running 55mm Shimizu's.
No rubbing, of course.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Do you guys have any lower damper ball joint binding problems? I was setting up my SabreFD Mini yesterday and noticed that my suspension was pretty stiff. I went ahead and changed pistons to the big bore 3 holes, softer oil, and that only changed the damping a little bit.

Found that the culprit was the lower ball joint..

Ended up using my Tamiya ball nut and Tamiya lower damper connector and spring carrier (seat) for the bottom. Works great, but was wondering if I just have a defective joint or if they just wear out and bind after a while, or..

I bought more Tamiya ball nuts and joints so will be doing the same on my Sabre4WDMini next week. Luckily I have a bunch of those spring carriers.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Never had an issue with any of my TOP cars with that. Make sure you did not screw in the ball connector too much into the shock shaft.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

agreed. TOPs ball ends and links are actually more durable than Tamiya's and I would know.. I only own 5 Tamiya road cars lol

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Yeah this was fine on my Sabre4WD mini when I checked this am, but on my SabreFD mini, NG.

Not sure what it is, almost seems the ball is too big as it's binded even off the car...

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Finally got around to installing my new HobbyWing ESC's to replace the TBLE02-S on both my Sabre Mini's.

Only now, I got a bad bearing somewhere on my 4WD Mini. I can hear the worn bearing .. I'm guessing it's the spur bearing... what do you guys think? I will be replacing that first tomorrow to see if the noise goes away... if not, process of elimination.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I fixed the bearing noise. It was actually coming from the rear cams so was a quick fix.

Any of you use this 3Racing RC stand for your Sabre Mini's? I really need to get a nicer stand. I currently use a Spektrum servo box which works for keeping the tires off the ground, but it's too small while I work on the car..

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4200

tmg2112

Ok gents, finally got my Sabre4WD Mini from Mike out in Cali and am looking to start the build. Will be racing on asphalt this summer. Any suggestions would be most welcome.
Thanks and howdy to all.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Nice choice! You're going to love this car. I would suggest getting the aluminum bell crank for it by kigheadz (as suggested by Aitutaki). First thing that broke on mine.

Also the bearings in my kit were dry, so make sure to oil each one of them during the install.

tmg2112

Thanks, lost my prize HPI Mini RS4 Pro last year to a fire and looked long and hard for this replacement. I was actually looking at the aluminum dual bell crank option back in post 141 on page 10. With the floating servo option, it looks just like what I just put on my TC6.2.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear about the MiniRS4Pro. I use to have the regular Mini RS4 when they first came out. I don't know about your car, but mine was a mess. The HPI crew were very supportive and tried to dial it in with me, but it was not even close to how well my Roadrunner was running at the time. I think part of the problem was that I was using standard left over junk servo's I found in my parts bin.

As for the floating servo option, that is probably a better way to go as things are more even, right angled, and parallel as they should be, but I am happy with just the aluminum bell crank.