3LikesTeam Associated TC6.2 Touring Car
05-27-2015, 04:52 PM
#2086
There wasn't much for coverage of the open classes at the Reedy Race but the AE cars did extremely well! There were TC6.2's in the main of every class, but we shined in the modified class with 3 cars making the main. I was able to TQ with Eric Albano qualifying 2nd and Steve Weiss making the show as well.
A body tuck cost me the lead in A1, ran decent in A2 but lost the lead about halfway through and came in 2nd by about .4 of a second. The sun FINALLY came out for A3 and my car came to life. Got out to a very early 5-6 second lead and just drove smooth for the last 3 minutes of a very welcomed uneventful win. Overall I ended up 2nd, Albano in 4th, and having to stand at the far opposite end of the driver stand from where he was comfortable, Steve wasn't able to improve on his qualifying position and stayed in 10th. Bob Stellflue from AE made the main and finished 7th in 13.5 as well! (I know I'm missing a few privateer AE cars from the 17.5 and 13.5 mains, sorry about that!)
Now for a few pics from my weekend!
The Team Orion powered AE cars of Ryan Cavalieri and myself.
Open Modified podium.
Won the champagne battle
Cool shot of my car from RedRC.
Finally I'd like to thank ALL my sponsors for the best support I could ever imagine. The brands I run for are amazing but the people behind them are incredible. Glad to be a part of every team I have listed in my signature!
A body tuck cost me the lead in A1, ran decent in A2 but lost the lead about halfway through and came in 2nd by about .4 of a second. The sun FINALLY came out for A3 and my car came to life. Got out to a very early 5-6 second lead and just drove smooth for the last 3 minutes of a very welcomed uneventful win. Overall I ended up 2nd, Albano in 4th, and having to stand at the far opposite end of the driver stand from where he was comfortable, Steve wasn't able to improve on his qualifying position and stayed in 10th. Bob Stellflue from AE made the main and finished 7th in 13.5 as well! (I know I'm missing a few privateer AE cars from the 17.5 and 13.5 mains, sorry about that!)
Now for a few pics from my weekend!
The Team Orion powered AE cars of Ryan Cavalieri and myself.
Open Modified podium.
Won the champagne battle
Cool shot of my car from RedRC.
Finally I'd like to thank ALL my sponsors for the best support I could ever imagine. The brands I run for are amazing but the people behind them are incredible. Glad to be a part of every team I have listed in my signature!
Last edited by Randy Caster; 05-27-2015 at 05:04 PM.
05-27-2015, 11:53 PM
#2089
Awesome info! Thank you very much 
I'll be as honest as I can be for you, but can't really speak for things that haven't already been shown in pictures or answered in other interviews.
First off, measure your rear toe and make sure it is where it should be, I recommend using the same inserts on the rearward pivot block, but you may have to use different inserts, or shift the front pivot blocks around before tightening them to get the desired toe. Start with 3*. I like running the rear pivot blocks shimmed up .5mm and the front pivot blocks low. I prefer the car to have a lot of entry steering, at Reedy I ended up with 1mm anti-dive on my car and Cavalieri's car. Rick used my setup on one of his cars but I'm not sure if he was running .5 or 1mm of anti-dive. Some of the guys liked the front arms flat. This is a pretty big change and you basically just have to try different settings and see which feeling you like best.
Front arms use the inner hole with 2mm spacing in front of the arm, rear arms use the outer hole with 5mm spacing in front of the arm. Yokomo hubs will be the inner hole and just center those, 1.25mm on either side should do it, file the hub a hair if it's bound up.
My shock setup is AE 42.5wt oil, Yokomo 3x1.1 (drilled) pistons, AE X-Rings, HPI Silver springs (try the new HPI Green springs for lower grip tracks and drop the oil a bit until it feels right on the track) build the shocks with about 3-4mm of rebound and drill a 1mm hole to vent the shock caps. I have tried a few different bladders and keep going back to the stock bladders, they feel the best on every surface so far for me. I use Yokomo shock collars, shock bottoms and spring retainers, these fit the HPI springs better than the stock pieces. Some of the guys are using AE TC5 shock ends with the Yokomo or HPI retainers. I like running the 3 hole on the front and rear shock towers.
If the rear of your car isn't planted try using 1.5* front camber and 2* rear camber. If it's still not planted take the front camber down to 1*.
For weight bias I like the front of my car to be slightly heavier than the rear, I run 51/49 front to rear bias. Talking to Sean a while back he preferred 50/50. Side to side is close to 50/50 but don't sweat it if it's a little off, you can adjust this with spring preload.
There's some info to get you going, hope this helps!
First off, measure your rear toe and make sure it is where it should be, I recommend using the same inserts on the rearward pivot block, but you may have to use different inserts, or shift the front pivot blocks around before tightening them to get the desired toe. Start with 3*. I like running the rear pivot blocks shimmed up .5mm and the front pivot blocks low. I prefer the car to have a lot of entry steering, at Reedy I ended up with 1mm anti-dive on my car and Cavalieri's car. Rick used my setup on one of his cars but I'm not sure if he was running .5 or 1mm of anti-dive. Some of the guys liked the front arms flat. This is a pretty big change and you basically just have to try different settings and see which feeling you like best.
Front arms use the inner hole with 2mm spacing in front of the arm, rear arms use the outer hole with 5mm spacing in front of the arm. Yokomo hubs will be the inner hole and just center those, 1.25mm on either side should do it, file the hub a hair if it's bound up.
My shock setup is AE 42.5wt oil, Yokomo 3x1.1 (drilled) pistons, AE X-Rings, HPI Silver springs (try the new HPI Green springs for lower grip tracks and drop the oil a bit until it feels right on the track) build the shocks with about 3-4mm of rebound and drill a 1mm hole to vent the shock caps. I have tried a few different bladders and keep going back to the stock bladders, they feel the best on every surface so far for me. I use Yokomo shock collars, shock bottoms and spring retainers, these fit the HPI springs better than the stock pieces. Some of the guys are using AE TC5 shock ends with the Yokomo or HPI retainers. I like running the 3 hole on the front and rear shock towers.
If the rear of your car isn't planted try using 1.5* front camber and 2* rear camber. If it's still not planted take the front camber down to 1*.
For weight bias I like the front of my car to be slightly heavier than the rear, I run 51/49 front to rear bias. Talking to Sean a while back he preferred 50/50. Side to side is close to 50/50 but don't sweat it if it's a little off, you can adjust this with spring preload.
There's some info to get you going, hope this helps!
05-28-2015, 07:18 AM
#2091
I have not tried them, but off they were designed as a direct replacement for the 6.2 hubs, they should fit in either the tc6.2 or the tc5/6 arms.
05-28-2015, 08:11 AM
#2092
05-28-2015, 08:53 AM
#2093
Can you share with us on why u did such modification on ur tc6.2??
05-28-2015, 11:04 AM
#2094
Both Rick and Cav's cars were running parts from several other AE kits. I'm sure its all about preference and the desire to build a better car. It would be cool to hear as to what each other the changes actually did to help.
05-29-2015, 02:02 AM
#2095
I did the 6.2 "Factory Team" conversion today. Thanks to Randy and the RedRC pictures it was really easy and went well.
The front suspension conversion is no problem at all as all parts drop in nicely. I also modified the servo mount and seperated the floating servo from the steering posts (as seen on Ricks car).
The rear conversion took more time, but wasn't difficult. Just open the pinholes and drill an extra hole for the Yokomo anti-roll-bar mount. Then drop all your shims on the inner pins
and that is it basically. Depending on the type of roll-bar, the inner mounts of the TC5 need attention to prevent binding.
What was confusing from the pictures, was the front anti-roll-bar wire thickness. Did you team guys use the TC5 black wire or a 1.2mm or 1.3mm wire?
Here some picture of my conversion (had to do some minor corrections after reading Randys infos again afterwards
) :
[url=http://abload.de/image.php?img=image6zuuk.jpg]
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The front suspension conversion is no problem at all as all parts drop in nicely. I also modified the servo mount and seperated the floating servo from the steering posts (as seen on Ricks car).
The rear conversion took more time, but wasn't difficult. Just open the pinholes and drill an extra hole for the Yokomo anti-roll-bar mount. Then drop all your shims on the inner pins
and that is it basically. Depending on the type of roll-bar, the inner mounts of the TC5 need attention to prevent binding.What was confusing from the pictures, was the front anti-roll-bar wire thickness. Did you team guys use the TC5 black wire or a 1.2mm or 1.3mm wire?
Here some picture of my conversion (had to do some minor corrections after reading Randys infos again afterwards
) :
[url=http://abload.de/image.php?img=image6zuuk.jpg]
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05-29-2015, 11:30 AM
#2097
The TC5 arms the guys are using on the front are not standard. They are made to match the TC6.2 arms and are run as they are lighter. The shock mounting position has been modified. Not a simple mod but possible with some care.
Most people are using yokomo front sway bars as they have more tuning options.
Most people are using yokomo front sway bars as they have more tuning options.
05-29-2015, 11:46 AM
#2098
Wow! I wouldn't have seen it, if you didn't say it!
Where is my Dremel
Where is my Dremel
05-29-2015, 12:20 PM
#2099
I did the 6.2 "Factory Team" conversion today. Thanks to Randy and the RedRC pictures it was really easy and went well.
The front suspension conversion is no problem at all as all parts drop in nicely. I also modified the servo mount and seperated the floating servo from the steering posts (as seen on Ricks car).
The rear conversion took more time, but wasn't difficult. Just open the pinholes and drill an extra hole for the Yokomo anti-roll-bar mount. Then drop all your shims on the inner pins and that is it basically. Depending on the type of roll-bar, the inner mounts of the TC5 need attention to prevent binding.
What was confusing from the pictures, was the front anti-roll-bar wire thickness. Did you team guys use the TC5 black wire or a 1.2mm or 1.3mm wire?
Here some picture of my conversion (had to do some minor corrections after reading Randys infos again afterwards ) :
The front suspension conversion is no problem at all as all parts drop in nicely. I also modified the servo mount and seperated the floating servo from the steering posts (as seen on Ricks car).
The rear conversion took more time, but wasn't difficult. Just open the pinholes and drill an extra hole for the Yokomo anti-roll-bar mount. Then drop all your shims on the inner pins
and that is it basically. Depending on the type of roll-bar, the inner mounts of the TC5 need attention to prevent binding.What was confusing from the pictures, was the front anti-roll-bar wire thickness. Did you team guys use the TC5 black wire or a 1.2mm or 1.3mm wire?
Here some picture of my conversion (had to do some minor corrections after reading Randys infos again afterwards
) :
05-29-2015, 01:32 PM
#2100
Air compressor after every run and a toothbrush. But the pictures lie. There is dust...
