NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Thank you for the setup info for the lightweight suspension. I have it at home, but haven't installed it as I wasn't sure of a good baseline.

trilerian

iTrader: (51)

Thank you Christian, I will give that a try.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

@jpx: Sorry for the late answer. I had a lot of to do last week
You asked for the setups of my TC6.2 and my T4'15. Here they are:

TC6.2


T4'15


Now some words to the LRP-HPI-Challenge race I worked on the setup for. On saturday before the race, I again compared both chassis against each other. While I love the 6.2 for its steering, in the end I decided to drive the race with the T4'15. My decision was strongly influenced by the very easy handling and the constant fast laptimes I could manage to drive with it. I was able to stay consistent in 10.4s laps for around ten consecutive laps. Something I couldn't do with the 6.2. Therefore the 6.2 had more 10.3s laps in a run, but also more 10.5s laps. So the cars proved to have the same speed. The T4'15 felt a little more easy to drive and a little more precise in steering reactions.

In a 17.5t blinky race one small mistake easily makes the difference between first and sixth place and so it was decided.

The qualifying went well, I was in command the car was ok. I am not sure why, but in the last qualifyer it was twitchy to drive; I didn't change the setup.

The first final was embarrassing for me. I overslept the start signal, confusing everybody behind me. After I finally was awake the pack just ran over my car, leaving me behind laying on the roof. After the marshal put the car back on its tires I had a body tuck and had to visit the next marshal. Shortly after I had the next body tuck. How I would have liked to quit This time I brought the car to the driver stand and looked for myself what the problem was. I discovered the front body posts were bend (one of the two weaknesses of the Xray-chassis). After this issue was solved I reentered the race with two laps behind. Still seven minutes to go. I pulled myself together with the goal of minimizing the damage. I pulled of a clean run and was lucky that the other guys made mistakes too. So I could get back on the leaders lap and finished second two tenth behind the winner.
The second final was embarrassing too. I made a normal start, but already in the second corner I hit the inside board after the car suddenly oversteered. This time I only lost three places. I won them back throughout the run and was able to pull away. The car was not as good as it was on saturday. I am still asking myself why it became that hard to drive. The shorten this story: The third final went fine. No mistakes from my side.



After this first race experience with the Xray I think it would have been better to drive the race with the 6.2. The laptimes with the T4 got worse over the time and the car was difficult to drive. Of course there are so many sources that could have caused this (I checked the car several time it was technically ok). Maybe the tires were bad or the Xray chassis developes a strange behaviour

Whatever it was, I think the conclusion of my comparison is both chassis are equal fast (in the hands of a clubguy). The T4 has a nicer basic setup and the quality is better. I really like details like the ballbearing anti roll bars. Only two problems: the mentioned weak front body posts and the bad accessibility of the pinion...
The 6.2 should come with a better (more steering) basic setup. Better milling quality (more precise and smoother surfaces for the inner damper) and more accuracy (less slop) in the plastics would be great (I would pay for that). Other than that this car is pretty much well thought.

jpx

@wtcc:
First of all: Glueckwunsch zum 1. Platz! - allthough you nearly messes up
Thanks for posting your setups!
Your reviews did help to get me close to buy a TC6.2 - about 100€ less for allmost no difference in speed might be the final argument
But I still quarrel as I will still be a lonely fighter among a pack of xray-drivers without the experience of quick and purposeful setup-work ...

btw: +1 for the martini!!!

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

That's a nicely done body! Where can I get those wheel stickers, I soo need them to cover up the hideous dish wheels


I'm in the same camp, the only guy at the club with a TC6.1&2 amounst a room full of Xray and Serpent drivers.... Oh well, I like the challenge

I added some bling to my TC6.2 tonight. A STRC Titanium screw kit. Personally I like the look of the black or blue aluminum, but aluminum is out, so Ti was next... a 14 gram savings

jpx

so do I!

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for the compliment

The wheel stickers are offered from LRP. I am not sure if they still sell them...
Here are the product info pages (there are two designs):

http://www.lrp.cc/de/produkte/produk...ichen/details/

http://www.lrp.cc/de/produkte/produk...ichen/details/

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Wtcc! I'll look into it. Or at least maybe try to make a set of my own if no longer available.

Hey question for anybody using the Yokomo springs with their 6.2. Are you using the AE spring perches and adjusting ring? I ask for the Yokomos are slightly larger in diameter. And although they seem to sit okay on my Exoteck aluminum bottom perches. They seem as if the could slip off/over the top adjusting perch given the right conditions. Or am I worrying about nothing?

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

People either use the Yok spring cups or they pinch the bottom spring coil. If using the Yok cups I prefer to use the Yok shock ends as well (i.e. the shock ends, the shock end balls, and a set screw into the arm instead of the stock button head) since the AE shock ends are smaller diameter than the Yok ends. Alternatively one may try putting some heat shrink around the AE end to better fit the Yok cup, although I have not tried this.

I have not seen an issue with the top of the spring, although you could pinch that coil as well.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Hey Sam, would you have a picture of what you're referring to? I'm not sure I understand the set screw in the button head thing.

That's a good idea to pinch or use shrink tube. The Exoteck lower cups seem to fit the Yoks fine, it just the upper that has me concerned.



How about a set of Yokomo shocks? Or is that too radical?

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

The long M3 set screw is installed in the arm and the steel ball threads onto it. Pic is attached, although it probably doesn't show much. I hope the idea gets through!?

I think the AE shocks themselves are fine and pinching the coils is by far the easiest and most straightforward route. I just chose to get all fancy.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Sam! Okay I think I get it. The ball and screw is a two piece affair as opposed to one unit. Nice!

irvinew

I rebuilt my rear gear diff yesterday and of course I noticed I built it wrong; somehow grrr. I rebuilt it with the #31344 instructions (not the manual instructions) as per you tube video recommended (easy to find) and I noticed one thing.

It is really hard to get those pins in for the inside sun bevel gear to rest on and hold the drives in. This makes the gears alot stiffer and I was wondering if I built it wrong somehow again. The only place I can think is making it stiffer is the shims that go on the outside (around the drive piece) and inside the gear diff; again as per instruction. Can anyone comment on a shared experience or give me a tip on whether I have this right or wrong.... again.

I used 3000 cst diff AE fluid as well.

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

hmm, something still sounds odd. The pins should go in with little effort and once in the outdrive should rotate smoothly and easily. Are you saying that with the pin installed and without the entire diff assembled, the outdrive is difficult to rotate? Or, is it just difficult to install the pin, but once in it's fine?

irvinew

The outdrive is difficult to turn; it turns but it is tight.

The design is this according to memory and instructions; the first 9x3? shim is under the larger o-ring at the bottom of the outdrive shaft. The smaller o-ring is of course in that grove on the shaft of the outdrive. The other shim is of course is inside the gear case of which is held in place with the pin of which the gear sits on.

I'm fairly sure the shim under the o-ring needs to be there?

Just a side note; I do have the new steel outdrives back there and these directions I used to assemble the gear diff was from the supplementary setup manual from AE, not the default method as listed from the manual.