MT12 RS12 RB12 and other engines tuning tips
10-07-2001, 09:05 PM
#46
ok tell me how this sounds. first when you say 10% and 20% it means the nitro content right? 10% has les nitro and more lubrication then 20% normaly i would recomend 10% on really tired engines that are about ready to die or need rebuilding.
20% seems to be the norm and i think this is what engine manufactures design the engine to run on. but what about this?
if you run an engine fatter (richer) more fuel goes threw the engine right? so its taking in more fuel then it can burn. SO what if you run that same setting with 30% if there is more nitro then couldnt you in a sence run the engine a little fatter then with 20% and get that same power? more nitro means a better burn but you are feeding in more fuel. THATS why they say you need to re shim the deck hight because more fuel is comming in and it need more space in the combustion chamber to compensate.
sound like crap?
20% seems to be the norm and i think this is what engine manufactures design the engine to run on. but what about this?
if you run an engine fatter (richer) more fuel goes threw the engine right? so its taking in more fuel then it can burn. SO what if you run that same setting with 30% if there is more nitro then couldnt you in a sence run the engine a little fatter then with 20% and get that same power? more nitro means a better burn but you are feeding in more fuel. THATS why they say you need to re shim the deck hight because more fuel is comming in and it need more space in the combustion chamber to compensate.
sound like crap?
10-08-2001, 10:08 AM
#47
RB X12 Problems!
I have an RB X12 in my V-One R. For the last couple of weeks I have been having problems getting it started. When I go to start it on my starter box usually the piston will get stuck in the sleeve and I will have to pry the piston back down by taking a screw driver to the flywheel. I have about a gallon through the engine now and is still giving me problems. When I do get it started the engine kicks but! I'm really fustrated with it right now because I couldn't get it started for my A-Main race yesterday.
Somebody please help me out!
Somebody please help me out!
10-08-2001, 09:12 PM
#48
Re: RB X12 Problems!
warm it up with a hair dryer then put it on the starter box. this should stop the piston sticking. or what you could do, which is what i did a few times, is, if you have a public toilet in the vicinities of the track, (don't laugh) warm the heatsink up with one of those hot air hand dryers..... AY! STOP LAUGHING IT WORKS!
10-09-2001, 02:57 PM
#49
I can get the piston free by prying the flywheel with a screw driver. It does this every time though. Is there something that I can do to my engine so this wont happen anymore?
10-09-2001, 05:22 PM
#50
thats a good picture tha car doesnt even look real its such a good shot.
10-14-2001, 04:15 AM
#52
Re: Re: RB X12 Problems!
Originally posted by ozzyNEOdriver
warm it up with a hair dryer then put it on the starter box. this should stop the piston sticking. or what you could do, which is what i did a few times, is, if you have a public toilet in the vicinities of the track, (don't laugh) warm the heatsink up with one of those hot air hand dryers..... AY! STOP LAUGHING IT WORKS!
warm it up with a hair dryer then put it on the starter box. this should stop the piston sticking. or what you could do, which is what i did a few times, is, if you have a public toilet in the vicinities of the track, (don't laugh) warm the heatsink up with one of those hot air hand dryers..... AY! STOP LAUGHING IT WORKS!
10-14-2001, 04:40 AM
#54
Originally posted by Disaster999
but it works....things expand when heated...maybe that should free up the piston....ot you know what else you could do...use those tire warmers to warm up the engine!
that should work too!!
but it works....things expand when heated...maybe that should free up the piston....ot you know what else you could do...use those tire warmers to warm up the engine!
that should work too!!
10-14-2001, 05:03 AM
#55
Originally posted by FACTION95Si
I can get the piston free by prying the flywheel with a screw driver. It does this every time though. Is there something that I can do to my engine so this wont happen anymore?
I can get the piston free by prying the flywheel with a screw driver. It does this every time though. Is there something that I can do to my engine so this wont happen anymore?
If your engine is new, probably you've not run it in enough...
Well as for heating it up in the toliet under the dryer... Think in time to come, there'll be "No Cars Allowed" at the doors!
10-14-2001, 06:00 AM
#56
Quoted from RB concept forum. This is a reply from Rody Reom of RB.
I have heard of this problem a few times now and did not consider this as a real problem but it seems that it is for some of you...
Now what probaly happens is that when the piston/liner combination is run-in the top-inside of the sleeve is very polished and the oil which is normally between the piston and liner is squezed out because there are now pores anymore.
Normally there are some pores in the piston where the oil sits but due to the small piston this becomes difficult to realize.
It could also be that you have run your engine totally empty(out of fuel) which makes it more dry inside too and so the oil contents in the engine is low.
It could also be that the fuel you use has a lot of castrol which makes this also happen.
I have no real solution for you then to be patient, once the engine will get older(wear-out) the problem should dissapear, untill then your starterbox and starting need to be flawless and without hesitating.
Will try to see if we can find a technical solution for this without loosing the initial compression of the engines.
I have heard of this problem a few times now and did not consider this as a real problem but it seems that it is for some of you...
Now what probaly happens is that when the piston/liner combination is run-in the top-inside of the sleeve is very polished and the oil which is normally between the piston and liner is squezed out because there are now pores anymore.
Normally there are some pores in the piston where the oil sits but due to the small piston this becomes difficult to realize.
It could also be that you have run your engine totally empty(out of fuel) which makes it more dry inside too and so the oil contents in the engine is low.
It could also be that the fuel you use has a lot of castrol which makes this also happen.
I have no real solution for you then to be patient, once the engine will get older(wear-out) the problem should dissapear, untill then your starterbox and starting need to be flawless and without hesitating.
Will try to see if we can find a technical solution for this without loosing the initial compression of the engines.
10-14-2001, 09:38 PM
#58
Originally posted by Disaster999
humm....are they saying that they have engineering problems with the engines...or are they blaming it on something else???
humm....are they saying that they have engineering problems with the engines...or are they blaming it on something else???
10-15-2001, 09:29 AM
#60
Originally posted by Disaster999
i think so...cuz....the sleeve and piston should be a bit looser then when it came out of the box after brake in...its either you didnt break in long enough...or theres some engineering problem!
i think so...cuz....the sleeve and piston should be a bit looser then when it came out of the box after brake in...its either you didnt break in long enough...or theres some engineering problem!