Mugen MTX-3
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I would hold off for a few months. The current Li-Po sets use 3.7v cells and a regulator to cut the voltage down to 6v. The regulator are known to fail every so often and when it happens a 8.4v surge goes through the receiver and blows up those lovely digital servos.
There are 3v Li-Ion cells being released now but there are no chargers made yet to allow them to be charged in packs. I believe the Triton doesnt yet have the capability either to charge them.
I would hold off for a few months. The current Li-Po sets use 3.7v cells and a regulator to cut the voltage down to 6v. The regulator are known to fail every so often and when it happens a 8.4v surge goes through the receiver and blows up those lovely digital servos.
There are 3v Li-Ion cells being released now but there are no chargers made yet to allow them to be charged in packs. I believe the Triton doesnt yet have the capability either to charge them.
ackerman...
Can anyone tell me which steering arm gives the most ackerman effect?, the "A" arm or the "B" arm?
Thanks from a MTX-3 noob from Hawaii
Thanks from a MTX-3 noob from Hawaii
Originally posted by buboy28
correct me if i'm wrong but the specs of the Duratrax "ICE" charger said that it can charge Li-Po and Li-Ion cells
correct me if i'm wrong but the specs of the Duratrax "ICE" charger said that it can charge Li-Po and Li-Ion cells
You cant charge the 3v Li-Ion with any of the current chargers on the market. They have a special charger which you can buy with the cells but it only holds 2 single cells pushed into it. no use for us using made up packs.
Re: ackerman...
Originally posted by StepPins
Can anyone tell me which steering arm gives the most ackerman effect?, the "A" arm or the "B" arm?
Thanks from a MTX-3 noob from Hawaii
Can anyone tell me which steering arm gives the most ackerman effect?, the "A" arm or the "B" arm?
Thanks from a MTX-3 noob from Hawaii
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
You are correct. It will charge both Li-Po and Li-Ion cells but only the 3.7v ones. If you overcharge a Lithium cell it will explode. The most extreme case I have read about is a workshed being burnt down because of improper charging.
You cant charge the 3v Li-Ion with any of the current chargers on the market. They have a special charger which you can buy with the cells but it only holds 2 single cells pushed into it. no use for us using made up packs.
You are correct. It will charge both Li-Po and Li-Ion cells but only the 3.7v ones. If you overcharge a Lithium cell it will explode. The most extreme case I have read about is a workshed being burnt down because of improper charging.
You cant charge the 3v Li-Ion with any of the current chargers on the market. They have a special charger which you can buy with the cells but it only holds 2 single cells pushed into it. no use for us using made up packs.
No problems. Im going to get one of the 3v wall chargers and strip it down. Going to rewire it to hook up to Futaba J plugs for the job. Believe it should be possible.
Tech Adept
li-poly
Universal Smart Charger For any 7.2V Li-ion Rechargeable Battery Pack
Regular Price $29.99
Sale Price $18.99
this is one that I use They also make a chip that won't over charge and won't let them discharge to far, nice when you consider you place them under your gas tank. http://www.batteryspace.com/ HAYWYRE
Regular Price $29.99
Sale Price $18.99
this is one that I use They also make a chip that won't over charge and won't let them discharge to far, nice when you consider you place them under your gas tank. http://www.batteryspace.com/ HAYWYRE
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Gearing
i need some suggestions for a technical parkinglot track. our back stretch is about 150ft and the rest of the course has small straights but many corners.
i am running the stock pulleys and gearing, ther was a guy running a 22 / 50something first gear and i forgot the second but he was really getting it. same car and motor as mine, so i know it was the gearing and ratio?
out of the corners i seem to be a little slow also
i am running the stock pulleys and gearing, ther was a guy running a 22 / 50something first gear and i forgot the second but he was really getting it. same car and motor as mine, so i know it was the gearing and ratio?
out of the corners i seem to be a little slow also
Last edited by gentleman81; 04-10-2005 at 04:35 PM.
Tech Initiate
Re: Gearing
Originally posted by gentleman81
i need some suggestions for a technical parkinglot track. our back stretch is about 150ft and the rest of the course has small straights but many corners.
i am running the stock pulleys and gearing, ther was a guy running a 22 / 50something first gear and i forgot the second but he was really getting it. same car and motor as mine, so i know it was the gearing and ratio?
out of the corners i seem to be a little slow also
i need some suggestions for a technical parkinglot track. our back stretch is about 150ft and the rest of the course has small straights but many corners.
i am running the stock pulleys and gearing, ther was a guy running a 22 / 50something first gear and i forgot the second but he was really getting it. same car and motor as mine, so i know it was the gearing and ratio?
out of the corners i seem to be a little slow also
I thinks ur gear ratio is around 6. It is too big for track with 150 ft stretch. Use smaller gear ratio. I suggest...... 1st speed ratio 7.5 to 7.2 and 2nd speed 5.2 to 5.0. If u want more pick-up use 1.0 pinion and spur. Adjust d 2nd speed to engage at 50-70 ft. For 5 min heat or 1 tank play, u can run with low end a little lean but for final or continue running for more than 2 tanks, make sure d low end is a little rich and dont 4get to test d 2nd speed after retuning, coz d 2nd speed gear engage timming may change each time u retune d engine. Hope its help.
Last edited by challenger; 04-10-2005 at 11:27 PM.
Thanks for the info on ackerman!!!
Re: Gearing
Originally posted by gentleman81
i need some suggestions for a technical parkinglot track. our back stretch is about 150ft and the rest of the course has small straights but many corners.
i am running the stock pulleys and gearing, ther was a guy running a 22 / 50something first gear and i forgot the second but he was really getting it. same car and motor as mine, so i know it was the gearing and ratio?
out of the corners i seem to be a little slow also
i need some suggestions for a technical parkinglot track. our back stretch is about 150ft and the rest of the course has small straights but many corners.
i am running the stock pulleys and gearing, ther was a guy running a 22 / 50something first gear and i forgot the second but he was really getting it. same car and motor as mine, so i know it was the gearing and ratio?
out of the corners i seem to be a little slow also
With 1.0 modules use 16/47 in first gear, and 20/43 in second gear.
Readjust your carb and gearbox accordingly.
AFM
What is a good front diff set up? I have been running the box stock setup with ok results, I just HATE the one way up front. I have driven way too much off road and like the break too much. I have all the parts and peaces, I just need a "basic" set up for it.
thx
thx
Originally posted by Toster
What is a good front diff set up? I have been running the box stock setup with ok results, I just HATE the one way up front. I have driven way too much off road and like the break too much. I have all the parts and peaces, I just need a "basic" set up for it.
thx
What is a good front diff set up? I have been running the box stock setup with ok results, I just HATE the one way up front. I have driven way too much off road and like the break too much. I have all the parts and peaces, I just need a "basic" set up for it.
thx
Why front one way is faster than a ball diff ? Is it faster at straight or mid corner speed ?
Originally posted by asw7576
Why front one way is faster than a ball diff ? Is it faster at straight or mid corner speed ?
Why front one way is faster than a ball diff ? Is it faster at straight or mid corner speed ?
Remove the gears from the front diff and insert the Kyosho RRR locker. The solid axle is far better than the diff.