Mugen MTX-3
I wonder how you get access to the low end needle.
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I wonder how you get access to the low end needle.
I wonder how you get access to the low end needle.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Probably from below the chassis with a long tuning screwdriver ... somehow.
Probably from below the chassis with a long tuning screwdriver ... somehow.
Can you remove the air cleaner to provide a better picture (close-up) of the throttle linkage and low-end needle access.....??
Reminds me of a Kai concept from long time ago. I believe he tried different tilt angles on the engine. I can't seem to find those old shot on the site:
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~kmodels/...-top-right.htm
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~kmodels/index1.htm
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~kmodels/...-top-right.htm
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~kmodels/index1.htm
Registered User
Re: Re: New engine mount to achive higher RPM
were can we get these engine mounts to do the laydown motor mod?
Tech Fanatic
Re: Re: Re: New engine mount to achive higher RPM
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
were can we get these engine mounts to do the laydown motor mod?
were can we get these engine mounts to do the laydown motor mod?
Re: Re: Re: Re: New engine mount to achive higher RPM
Originally posted by Cartman
try www.imagullablesucker.com
try www.imagullablesucker.com
like i said karma will eventually get to him if he is pulling our legs
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Maybe. I was looking at the top pic and figured he must have drilled a hole through the servo to get a screwdriver on to it.
Maybe. I was looking at the top pic and figured he must have drilled a hole through the servo to get a screwdriver on to it.
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
if it's on power- you want to make adjustments to the rear first.....
softer rear tire
softer rear spring
lay rear shock down a hole
lighter shock oil
more negative rear camber
more rear toe-in
lighter sway bar
go small first, then move to the front to take away front traction, if the rear adjustments do not work. if you are close on tires, the camber and toe-in will most likely get you there quickly. go 1/2 degree more negative on the rear adjustments (toe & camber), and 1/2 degree more positive in the front.
softer rear tire
softer rear spring
lay rear shock down a hole
lighter shock oil
more negative rear camber
more rear toe-in
lighter sway bar
go small first, then move to the front to take away front traction, if the rear adjustments do not work. if you are close on tires, the camber and toe-in will most likely get you there quickly. go 1/2 degree more negative on the rear adjustments (toe & camber), and 1/2 degree more positive in the front.
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by cdelong
if it's on power- you want to make adjustments to the rear first.....
softer rear tire
softer rear spring
lay rear shock down a hole
lighter shock oil
more negative rear camber
more rear toe-in
lighter sway bar
go small first, then move to the front to take away front traction, if the rear adjustments do not work. if you are close on tires, the camber and toe-in will most likely get you there quickly. go 1/2 degree more negative on the rear adjustments (toe & camber), and 1/2 degree more positive in the front.
if it's on power- you want to make adjustments to the rear first.....
softer rear tire
softer rear spring
lay rear shock down a hole
lighter shock oil
more negative rear camber
more rear toe-in
lighter sway bar
go small first, then move to the front to take away front traction, if the rear adjustments do not work. if you are close on tires, the camber and toe-in will most likely get you there quickly. go 1/2 degree more negative on the rear adjustments (toe & camber), and 1/2 degree more positive in the front.
While racing this weekend, the car was doing well during the first qualifier but with about 30 seconds to go everytime i would throttle going out of the turn the car would spin. I thought maybe i blew a rear diff but i had one of the guys look at it and he said the rear diff was fine. So i went ahead and tried the 2nd qualifier and the same thing happened. During the qualifier someone rammed me in the back of the car and broke the shock. the metal bar broke in half.
I checked all the links and everything seems fine. Do you think maybe the shock was getting ready to break anyway and couldnt handle the weight of the car during the turns? I have never had a spinning problem with the mugen. I have been able to turn while on throttle with no problems before. Granted that day a couple people were having problems with spinning, but i dont think like what i had. i could not control it.
I checked all the links and everything seems fine. Do you think maybe the shock was getting ready to break anyway and couldnt handle the weight of the car during the turns? I have never had a spinning problem with the mugen. I have been able to turn while on throttle with no problems before. Granted that day a couple people were having problems with spinning, but i dont think like what i had. i could not control it.
Re: New engine mount to achive higher RPM
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Enjoy!
best,
Enjoy!
best,
you can't fool me punk !!! that is what you get when you had a head on collision at full speed at the end of the straight last week.
awesome a preview of prototype mtx4, lay down throttle servo.