Mugen MTX-3
Ok I have some questions for yall. Does anyone know where I could find a spring rate chart for the Mugen MTX-3? Also I know the rear blocks have stuff to do with Roll center and stuff so what is the difference in the A-B-C blocks?
Tech Initiate
Tighten the spring make the clutch hold longer before getting contact with the bell, harder spring make the movement faster and stronger.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
new mtx 3
i just assemblem about 85% of my new mtx3 and the onlyt thing i see that is wierd is that the front shocks are very loose as far as compresion? if i back off the coilover the spring just floats around in there, i have to screw the coilover all the way down past the threads just to feel a resistance. is that right or what did i do?
ps yeah the brakes do rub, can i just runn it until it files the pad down or do i need to take them out and sand them?
ps yeah the brakes do rub, can i just runn it until it files the pad down or do i need to take them out and sand them?
Re: new mtx 3
Originally posted by gentleman81
i just assemblem about 85% of my new mtx3 and the onlyt thing i see that is wierd is that the front shocks are very loose as far as compresion? if i back off the coilover the spring just floats around in there, i have to screw the coilover all the way down past the threads just to feel a resistance. is that right or what did i do?
ps yeah the brakes do rub, can i just runn it until it files the pad down or do i need to take them out and sand them?
i just assemblem about 85% of my new mtx3 and the onlyt thing i see that is wierd is that the front shocks are very loose as far as compresion? if i back off the coilover the spring just floats around in there, i have to screw the coilover all the way down past the threads just to feel a resistance. is that right or what did i do?
ps yeah the brakes do rub, can i just runn it until it files the pad down or do i need to take them out and sand them?
the brakes.. yah sand abt 0.5mm of each sides... or just change to the teflon if u like 'em
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
really
about how far is the coilover down on your fronts? with the standard blue springs.
OK...went out racing last weekend..and have tons of problem with radio!! glitching at full throttle!! =( .. this sux!! after I broke 2 steering block....after I hit full throttle!! =( ...any how... I figure it out..what was wrong with the car. That damn...throttle servo was giving me glitch (JR Cheap serov)
Ok...any how...I was out of my right steeing block...so...I decided to put in the left on the right side of the car. Move the steering boll cub upword... and it seem to work.. Is any one ever try this?? I Know I have to change to the right parts but...for now...it 's ok.
I just like to know if any one ever try it this way?? and if so...did u r car drive differencely?? I can't relly tell on my car.
Ok...any how...I was out of my right steeing block...so...I decided to put in the left on the right side of the car. Move the steering boll cub upword... and it seem to work.. Is any one ever try this?? I Know I have to change to the right parts but...for now...it 's ok.
I just like to know if any one ever try it this way?? and if so...did u r car drive differencely?? I can't relly tell on my car.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
superk were you using KO MARS R? i had problems when i tried to use a jr servo on my throttle.
Re: really
Originally posted by gentleman81
about how far is the coilover down on your fronts? with the standard blue springs.
about how far is the coilover down on your fronts? with the standard blue springs.
Re: Clutch Springs and weights
Originally posted by gonzoY5
Can someone explain Clutch springs and flyweights a bit for me? Wouldn't tightening the spring down have the same affect as a harder spring?
And as for the flyweights, do they make the acceleration harder because it takes more RPM to make the clutch engage since they're lighter? Thanks
Can someone explain Clutch springs and flyweights a bit for me? Wouldn't tightening the spring down have the same affect as a harder spring?
And as for the flyweights, do they make the acceleration harder because it takes more RPM to make the clutch engage since they're lighter? Thanks
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: at last... MRX-4
Originally posted by eddiethefish
To make money, they would need to redesign everything on the new car
To make money, they would need to redesign everything on the new car
start selling part individually, and best of all, jack up the price. They could also try to play the little demand/supply game, buy holding on to the supplies, and you can guess the rest.
if the car hit from the front impact, it should make the rear arms broke as well as the frint ones.
Originally posted by rranger
That's funny, many TC3 use Mugan clutch while some Mtx use their 2 speed.
Make sure you have evenly adjust both shoes out from the center to have diameter you want.
That's funny, many TC3 use Mugan clutch while some Mtx use their 2 speed.
Make sure you have evenly adjust both shoes out from the center to have diameter you want.
The mechanix of how the Mugen 2-speed works is the same as the transmission on a NTC3.....Personally I find it to be more consistent.....
If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.
Ask someone else where you race to let you take theirs off and look at it.....it comes off the shaft with only ONE E-Clip.....(try that with a NTC3... )
I agree with others that said to inspect for stripped screws or damaged shoes also......check those first.
If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.
Ask someone else where you race to let you take theirs off and look at it.....it comes off the shaft with only ONE E-Clip.....(try that with a NTC3... )
I agree with others that said to inspect for stripped screws or damaged shoes also......check those first.
Well said.
Originally posted by Bivens
If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.
If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.
Originally posted by Bivens
The mechanix of how the Mugen 2-speed works is the same as the transmission on a NTC3.....Personally I find it to be more consistent.....
If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.
Ask someone else where you race to let you take theirs off and look at it.....it comes off the shaft with only ONE E-Clip.....(try that with a NTC3... )
I agree with others that said to inspect for stripped screws or damaged shoes also......check those first.
The mechanix of how the Mugen 2-speed works is the same as the transmission on a NTC3.....Personally I find it to be more consistent.....
If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.
Ask someone else where you race to let you take theirs off and look at it.....it comes off the shaft with only ONE E-Clip.....(try that with a NTC3... )
I agree with others that said to inspect for stripped screws or damaged shoes also......check those first.
Well, manual is only a "GUIDELINE". One must use the experience and knowledge applied when assembling the car.
Hence, that's why we are ended up overhere.
hehehe
Hence, that's why we are ended up overhere.
hehehe
Originally posted by alucard13
...The directions are horrible...
...The directions are horrible...