Mugen MTX-3
02-11-2004, 06:43 PM
I thought the purpose of it was to put more power to the front tires and less to the rear tires? Why would you want to run smaller tires in the front?
02-11-2004, 06:45 PM
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I thought the purpose of it was to put more power to the front tires and less to the rear tires? Why would you want to run smaller tires in the front?
I thought the purpose of it was to put more power to the front tires and less to the rear tires? Why would you want to run smaller tires in the front?
02-11-2004, 06:52 PM
What page?
02-11-2004, 06:58 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
just browse around
i believe around 2~3 pages back?
i believe around 2~3 pages back?
02-11-2004, 07:33 PM
PJ Yukiyu , go two pages back!! , say hi to everyon back home , in the mean time .. i have some racing to take care off!!
YUKIYUUUUUU!!!!
YUKIYUUUUUU!!!!
02-11-2004, 08:07 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
Where to get Shark pipe
Anybody know where I can purchase a Shark pipe, perferably in the US.
thanks
thanks
02-11-2004, 09:25 PM
cartman
I am sorry but it is my understanding when all else is left constant ride height does alter droop. In your example you mentioned about set up on the blocks with the shock undone and then you connect them and yes if the car is NOT on the ground the droop will remain the same, provided your shocks are not bottoming out before the droop screws.) BUT when the car is placed on the ground this is no longer the situation because spring preload comes into play. If you do not believe me set your car up with say 5 mm of ride height and 2mm of droop, crank down on the spring collars so you have 7mm or ride height on the car and check the droop. Guess what if your measurements and settings are spot on you no longer have ANY droop at all, because ride height directly effects droop mm for mm. I understand how you were originally looking at this from the stand point of being on the set up blocks, but cars are raced on the ground not set up blocks.
I am sorry but it is my understanding when all else is left constant ride height does alter droop. In your example you mentioned about set up on the blocks with the shock undone and then you connect them and yes if the car is NOT on the ground the droop will remain the same, provided your shocks are not bottoming out before the droop screws.) BUT when the car is placed on the ground this is no longer the situation because spring preload comes into play. If you do not believe me set your car up with say 5 mm of ride height and 2mm of droop, crank down on the spring collars so you have 7mm or ride height on the car and check the droop. Guess what if your measurements and settings are spot on you no longer have ANY droop at all, because ride height directly effects droop mm for mm. I understand how you were originally looking at this from the stand point of being on the set up blocks, but cars are raced on the ground not set up blocks.
02-11-2004, 11:24 PM
Originally posted by sbmon
cartman
I am sorry but it is my understanding when all else is left constant ride height does alter droop. In your example you mentioned about set up on the blocks with the shock undone and then you connect them and yes if the car is NOT on the ground the droop will remain the same, provided your shocks are not bottoming out before the droop screws.) BUT when the car is placed on the ground this is no longer the situation because spring preload comes into play. If you do not believe me set your car up with say 5 mm of ride height and 2mm of droop, crank down on the spring collars so you have 7mm or ride height on the car and check the droop. Guess what if your measurements and settings are spot on you no longer have ANY droop at all, because ride height directly effects droop mm for mm. I understand how you were originally looking at this from the stand point of being on the set up blocks, but cars are raced on the ground not set up blocks.
cartman
I am sorry but it is my understanding when all else is left constant ride height does alter droop. In your example you mentioned about set up on the blocks with the shock undone and then you connect them and yes if the car is NOT on the ground the droop will remain the same, provided your shocks are not bottoming out before the droop screws.) BUT when the car is placed on the ground this is no longer the situation because spring preload comes into play. If you do not believe me set your car up with say 5 mm of ride height and 2mm of droop, crank down on the spring collars so you have 7mm or ride height on the car and check the droop. Guess what if your measurements and settings are spot on you no longer have ANY droop at all, because ride height directly effects droop mm for mm. I understand how you were originally looking at this from the stand point of being on the set up blocks, but cars are raced on the ground not set up blocks.
i think the actual way is you set the droops then the ride height.
Droops and ride height affect the car in a different way.
The way i see it.. its you have both of them mix together.. i think.
02-12-2004, 04:10 AM
We seem to be going around in circles with this 16/19t conversion.
Nothing else to discuss except how good your mugen handles.....
Nothing else to discuss except how good your mugen handles.....
02-12-2004, 05:56 AM
Originally posted by snoopy
We seem to be going around in circles with this 16/19t conversion.
Nothing else to discuss except how good your mugen handles.....
We seem to be going around in circles with this 16/19t conversion.
Nothing else to discuss except how good your mugen handles.....
it handles really well, is easy to drive, has a large tunning window, parts are strong, linkages have NO slop whatsover after 1 year of racing, AND IT'S QUICK.i wish i had a tc3 with issues.
by the way have you seen the new revised rear arms "team" ntc3! nice
i was even contemplating geting it. but then i remember the guys who went from mtx3 to ntc3 went from fast to slow..........you know who you are moorebank racers!! i'm looking at that "thunder" paint scheme mr CV
and for the MTX3 to NTC3 to MTX3 mr kickass welcome back. get your act together though. your time in the blue camp has made you slow again!
02-12-2004, 06:00 AM
since no mugen users are busy can you translate this page for me?
http://stgang.hp.infoseek.co.jp/gp/MTX-3.htm
i tryed babelfish but it isn't too clear. what does th writting on the picture of the blue v1rr bit say? i wanna do the pod rear end conversion, not the other stuff.
http://stgang.hp.infoseek.co.jp/gp/MTX-3.htm
i tryed babelfish but it isn't too clear. what does th writting on the picture of the blue v1rr bit say? i wanna do the pod rear end conversion, not the other stuff.
02-12-2004, 06:04 AM
Yes droop and ride height do work together, when ride height is raised you lose droop and when it is decreased you gain droop(with all else being held constant) Even though you set up droop up on blocks to get it even when you attach the shocks and place the car on the ground things change (spring preload, shock extension limits etc..) I think the main point about droop is that it is the measurement of up travel the chassis has before the wheel leaves the ground, so if you put your car on a flat surface and measure ride height at say 5mm and then lift the car from the center of the chassis and the wheels leave the ground at 8mm then your droop is 3mm on that end of the car. This subject gets a little tricky because we are dealing with foam tires that wear quite a bit, and then you try to keep your ride height constant by jacking the springs collars down but then you wonder why the car handling is becoming loose, it is because you are loosing droop mm for mm as you crank those spring collars down to keep your ride height in check. So how do you get around this? Always run tires trued to the same diameter, unfortunately my funds won't allow me to do this. so as the tire wears and ride height lowers I crank on the springs and increase the droop accordingly.
02-12-2004, 06:53 AM
Originally posted by sbmon
Yes droop and ride height do work together. . . . .
:
This subject gets a little tricky because we are dealing with foam tires that wear quite a bit . . . .
:
So how do you get around this? Always run tires trued to the same diameter, unfortunately my funds won't allow me to do this. so as the tire wears and ride height lowers I crank on the springs and increase the droop accordingly.
Yes droop and ride height do work together. . . . .
:
This subject gets a little tricky because we are dealing with foam tires that wear quite a bit . . . .
:
So how do you get around this? Always run tires trued to the same diameter, unfortunately my funds won't allow me to do this. so as the tire wears and ride height lowers I crank on the springs and increase the droop accordingly.
Are you going to start the final after adjusting ride height and droop?
02-12-2004, 07:15 AM
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
since no mugen users are busy can you translate this page for me?
http://stgang.hp.infoseek.co.jp/gp/MTX-3.htm
i tryed babelfish but it isn't too clear. what does th writting on the picture of the blue v1rr bit say? i wanna do the pod rear end conversion, not the other stuff.
since no mugen users are busy can you translate this page for me?
http://stgang.hp.infoseek.co.jp/gp/MTX-3.htm
i tryed babelfish but it isn't too clear. what does th writting on the picture of the blue v1rr bit say? i wanna do the pod rear end conversion, not the other stuff.
02-12-2004, 08:02 AM
I think the pictures there clearly illustrate how to make the V1RR rear floating mount conversion. but at the end, the writer mentioned that the set up is weak at the camber link/hub.
I run an EVO and I ditch the rear floating mount as I find the traditional shock tower gives more consistent performance over the floating mount.
I run an EVO and I ditch the rear floating mount as I find the traditional shock tower gives more consistent performance over the floating mount.
