Mugen MTX-3
11-24-2003, 12:02 AM
#9001
Originally posted by speedydave
What kind of maintenance does the clutch on the MTX3 require, and how(besides the obvious) will driving an MTX3/nitro tourer compare to driving 1/10 gas trucks and 1/8 buggies(ie, what would the transition be like)? I've been racing gas trucks for about 1 3/4 years, and 1/8 buggies for a little over a year, and was thinking about taking everything from my 1/10 and putting it in an MTX3 when spring rolls around. Anyone here race at LeMans RC in Fremont, CA? That's where I'd most likely be racing. Any other tips for making the transition from offroad to onroad(I'll still be racing offroad, though)? Thanks.
What kind of maintenance does the clutch on the MTX3 require, and how(besides the obvious) will driving an MTX3/nitro tourer compare to driving 1/10 gas trucks and 1/8 buggies(ie, what would the transition be like)? I've been racing gas trucks for about 1 3/4 years, and 1/8 buggies for a little over a year, and was thinking about taking everything from my 1/10 and putting it in an MTX3 when spring rolls around. Anyone here race at LeMans RC in Fremont, CA? That's where I'd most likely be racing. Any other tips for making the transition from offroad to onroad(I'll still be racing offroad, though)? Thanks.
- you have a washer behind the collet
- you have a washer behind the 1st bearing (for the clutch bell)
other than that you only do general maintenance:
- clean and lube bearings
- clean the clutch shoe (use grit paper to make it rough again)
- always lube (black grease) the thrust bearing before you have a session
- check the shims
For me I will just adjust clutch by screwing it in all the way and then releasing 2 full turns as a base setting. Easier than guessing what 0.8 mm is!!!
Difference? I would not take the Mugen for a nice table top jump for sure!!! The Mugen is lovely, you will enjoy it.
11-24-2003, 12:39 AM
#9002
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by tIANcI
Metal pulleys will last longer but they will tend to strip your belts! I was running 8.08 on my first speed and it was hell on the belts with the metal pulleys. They cost a lot more than the plastic ones too.
Metal pulleys will last longer but they will tend to strip your belts! I was running 8.08 on my first speed and it was hell on the belts with the metal pulleys. They cost a lot more than the plastic ones too.
11-24-2003, 01:11 AM
#9003
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by tIANcI
when building the clutch always ensure:
- you have a washer behind the collet
- you have a washer behind the 1st bearing (for the clutch bell)
other than that you only do general maintenance:
- clean and lube bearings
- clean the clutch shoe (use grit paper to make it rough again)
- always lube (black grease) the thrust bearing before you have a session
- check the shims
For me I will just adjust clutch by screwing it in all the way and then releasing 2 full turns as a base setting. Easier than guessing what 0.8 mm is!!!
Difference? I would not take the Mugen for a nice table top jump for sure!!! The Mugen is lovely, you will enjoy it.
when building the clutch always ensure:
- you have a washer behind the collet
- you have a washer behind the 1st bearing (for the clutch bell)
other than that you only do general maintenance:
- clean and lube bearings
- clean the clutch shoe (use grit paper to make it rough again)
- always lube (black grease) the thrust bearing before you have a session
- check the shims
For me I will just adjust clutch by screwing it in all the way and then releasing 2 full turns as a base setting. Easier than guessing what 0.8 mm is!!!
Difference? I would not take the Mugen for a nice table top jump for sure!!! The Mugen is lovely, you will enjoy it.
i would not put the washer behind the Collete for several reasons, is not in manual, restricts adjustment, moves engine to left of car which is heavier anyway.
do not over lube the bearings, as the lube will come out and go over the shoe.
Mugen cvd grease is the best, very anti fling!
buy some digital callipers and do not guess, the clutch is a valuable tuning tool
11-24-2003, 01:41 AM
#9004
Originally posted by Cartman
i would not put the washer behind the Collete for several reasons, is not in manual, restricts adjustment, moves engine to left of car which is heavier anyway.
do not over lube the bearings, as the lube will come out and go over the shoe.
Mugen cvd grease is the best, very anti fling!
buy some digital callipers and do not guess, the clutch is a valuable tuning tool
i would not put the washer behind the Collete for several reasons, is not in manual, restricts adjustment, moves engine to left of car which is heavier anyway.
do not over lube the bearings, as the lube will come out and go over the shoe.
Mugen cvd grease is the best, very anti fling!
buy some digital callipers and do not guess, the clutch is a valuable tuning tool
11-24-2003, 06:21 PM
#9005
Hi guys i have a MTX3 and its stock as a ROCK. i wouldnt mind grabing some option parts for it. What do you think i should put on it.
11-24-2003, 06:39 PM
#9007
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Your first upgrade should be universals for the front. You can leave the dogbones in the rear since those wheels don't steer. I've tried a few brands of univ. and like the Tobee Craft's you can get from Speedtechrc.com. They're pretty durable at a good price.
I have a Kfactory 4mm chassis and aluminum brake plate but i doubt the brake plate helps any. I bought it because it's blue eye candy. Other than that mine's pretty much stock too. Oh and a red clutch shoe. Mine's a Racer's Choice from Speedline but I think Mugen has one now too. I like it because it engages more firmly than the stock shoe.
I have a Kfactory 4mm chassis and aluminum brake plate but i doubt the brake plate helps any. I bought it because it's blue eye candy. Other than that mine's pretty much stock too. Oh and a red clutch shoe. Mine's a Racer's Choice from Speedline but I think Mugen has one now too. I like it because it engages more firmly than the stock shoe.
11-24-2003, 07:55 PM
#9009
clutch
ran the mtx3 today , gotta say i like it alot this car seems quite durable compared to what i am use to (ntc3)
but the clutch has been driving me a little crazy
First i had it engaging a little to late so i removed the engine took it apart adjusted and put it back on only to find it then engaging a little too early, basically went through this like 4 times to get it too feel right . I sure hope that clutch nut over the spring doesnt
lose its setting now that i finally have it close to right. Has anyone seen the external adjustment tool for this clutch ? who makes it? and how much is it? i know i will still have to take the
engine out of the car but that isn't really that bad.
but the clutch has been driving me a little crazy
First i had it engaging a little to late so i removed the engine took it apart adjusted and put it back on only to find it then engaging a little too early, basically went through this like 4 times to get it too feel right . I sure hope that clutch nut over the spring doesntlose its setting now that i finally have it close to right. Has anyone seen the external adjustment tool for this clutch ? who makes it? and how much is it? i know i will still have to take the
engine out of the car but that isn't really that bad.
11-24-2003, 08:58 PM
#9012
The tool for adjusting this nut is a Mugen Part.
I like mine set about 8.8 to 8.9 mm.
I also put a drop of lock tight (blue) on the shaft threads, wipe off the excess, before putting the nut on. I've never had one "creep" on me since doing this.
I like mine set about 8.8 to 8.9 mm.
I also put a drop of lock tight (blue) on the shaft threads, wipe off the excess, before putting the nut on. I've never had one "creep" on me since doing this.
11-24-2003, 09:34 PM
#9013
Re: clutch
Originally posted by sbmon
ran the mtx3 today , gotta say i like it alot this car seems quite durable compared to what i am use to (ntc3)
but the clutch has been driving me a little crazy First i had it engaging a little to late so i removed the engine took it apart adjusted and put it back on only to find it then engaging a little too early, basically went through this like 4 times to get it too feel right . I sure hope that clutch nut over the spring doesnt
lose its setting now that i finally have it close to right. Has anyone seen the external adjustment tool for this clutch ? who makes it? and how much is it? i know i will still have to take the
engine out of the car but that isn't really that bad.
ran the mtx3 today , gotta say i like it alot this car seems quite durable compared to what i am use to (ntc3)
but the clutch has been driving me a little crazy
First i had it engaging a little to late so i removed the engine took it apart adjusted and put it back on only to find it then engaging a little too early, basically went through this like 4 times to get it too feel right . I sure hope that clutch nut over the spring doesntlose its setting now that i finally have it close to right. Has anyone seen the external adjustment tool for this clutch ? who makes it? and how much is it? i know i will still have to take the
engine out of the car but that isn't really that bad.
Weird.
I set up the clutches on two of my cars as per instructions(endplay etc.) and been happy with the performance since with no troubles.
11-25-2003, 12:15 AM
#9014
Tech Adept
Hi guys
I think there's a company in the US that make a tool that adjusts the chutch from the outside, I believe the company is called BK............. They also make a front anti-roll bar adjuster that fits the MRX3, not sure if it'll work on the MTX3.
The mugen tool is great but from my knowledge the tool they make means you have to remove the end bell to get to the adjusting nut. With the BK tool you don't need to remove the engine or the end bell
the 0.50 allen wrench that Surge suggested is the cheapest though!!!!! (standard L shaped allen key is good too!)
I think there's a company in the US that make a tool that adjusts the chutch from the outside, I believe the company is called BK............. They also make a front anti-roll bar adjuster that fits the MRX3, not sure if it'll work on the MTX3.
The mugen tool is great but from my knowledge the tool they make means you have to remove the end bell to get to the adjusting nut. With the BK tool you don't need to remove the engine or the end bell
the 0.50 allen wrench that Surge suggested is the cheapest though!!!!! (standard L shaped allen key is good too!)
11-25-2003, 02:44 AM
#9015
Tech Addict
The only tool I know of to adjust the clutch with the bell still on is the allen key. Nothing else will fit in the hole on the bell. Mugen's tool requires the bell to be off. Using the allen key is simple. Just drop it in the hole, rotate the bell or flywheel until it slides into the clutch adjustment nut, then hold the flywheel and rotate the nut. That's the way I adjust all my cars.