Mugen MTX-3
09-01-2003, 08:45 PM
#7713
Tech Master
Originally posted by B
A great looking car
Do you know how much it weighs?
A great looking car
Do you know how much it weighs?
09-01-2003, 08:46 PM
#7714
Tech Master
Originally posted by Motorman
AH
see that rusty stuff in your universal joints!! thats what I'm talking about. grease em bro before the crosses wear out. every race.
AH
see that rusty stuff in your universal joints!! thats what I'm talking about. grease em bro before the crosses wear out. every race.
09-01-2003, 09:35 PM
#7717
So...better spend $ on the Mugen CVD then.. I think they sale it for lik e$33.99. ....one things... I hate the oneway any how...so..I just use the front diff...this way I can use the brakes. But..if I use the diff...will this less strass on the CVD??
Also..I was just looking at the Rear and front CVDs... I notice it's difference parts #...but it looks identical to me. Are they the same?? I think they are.
Also..I was just looking at the Rear and front CVDs... I notice it's difference parts #...but it looks identical to me. Are they the same?? I think they are.
09-01-2003, 10:26 PM
#7718
Buy the Mugen ones
They say the RD logic ones hold up also.
The diff puts less stress on the cvd's
With a one way when you hit something the wheel is free wheeling and when you hit something it stops instantly. But once I put in the Mugen ones I have not had any problems. And the $34 is 6 bucks less than the retail price that alot of shops try to charge.
They say the front ones are a little longer. I run dog bones in the back and mugen unversals with MTX 3 bones in the front. No problems.
The diff puts less stress on the cvd's
With a one way when you hit something the wheel is free wheeling and when you hit something it stops instantly. But once I put in the Mugen ones I have not had any problems. And the $34 is 6 bucks less than the retail price that alot of shops try to charge.
They say the front ones are a little longer. I run dog bones in the back and mugen unversals with MTX 3 bones in the front. No problems.
Last edited by TonyWest; 09-01-2003 at 10:35 PM.
09-01-2003, 10:34 PM
#7719
the bones are the same length, mugen has a different PN because of the oring they supply for the front. I never use the oring anyway so front or rear bones fit they are the same length.
Thats what I went to on my Osaka MRX, cvd's are to fragile there.
I run dog bones in the back
09-01-2003, 10:54 PM
#7720
If the bones are the same...so..I assume the CVD is the same then.... I look and look and compair them....it look exectly the same.
09-01-2003, 11:31 PM
#7721
in the first batch of Mugen CVD, they are of same length plug the front pack has included 2 o-ring for sitting the outdrive. I have checked the latest batch of CVD and the front bones are actually slightly longer.
09-02-2003, 05:34 AM
#7722
Tech Apprentice
the rear cvds are necessary anyways. all u really need is the front and ur set to go!
anybody have any thoughts about Kfactory cvds?
anybody have any thoughts about Kfactory cvds?
09-02-2003, 07:26 AM
#7723
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by snoboardin
the rear cvds are necessary anyways. all u really need is the front and ur set to go!
anybody have any thoughts about Kfactory cvds?
the rear cvds are necessary anyways. all u really need is the front and ur set to go!
anybody have any thoughts about Kfactory cvds?
09-02-2003, 08:34 AM
#7724
Hi
How are you guys doin' eh! Has anyone found a way to protect the rear suspension? I broke three left rear susp. arms in the last five race days because I clipped an outside board on the track where I race. The boards are held to one another with metal brackets. They don't protrude that much but when I have the misfortune of clipping one in just the right way, the rear left wheel hooks on them and rips the rear arm off. The front end of the car is no problem because I made a large bumper out off thick Kydex and it protects the front susp. very well. I thought of making some kind of wings, placed in front of the rear wheels to protect the rear susp. but there's not much room on the rear of the chassis to secure them on. Besides telling me to stop hitting the boards, has anyone got any ideas or suggestions.
Fanx
How are you guys doin' eh! Has anyone found a way to protect the rear suspension? I broke three left rear susp. arms in the last five race days because I clipped an outside board on the track where I race. The boards are held to one another with metal brackets. They don't protrude that much but when I have the misfortune of clipping one in just the right way, the rear left wheel hooks on them and rips the rear arm off. The front end of the car is no problem because I made a large bumper out off thick Kydex and it protects the front susp. very well. I thought of making some kind of wings, placed in front of the rear wheels to protect the rear susp. but there's not much room on the rear of the chassis to secure them on. Besides telling me to stop hitting the boards, has anyone got any ideas or suggestions.
Fanx
09-02-2003, 11:37 AM
#7725
Tech Adept
Front one-way lock?
Hi Guys,
Is there any way to lock the front one-way?
I noticed a guys 1/8th Slide at the track had a lockable front one-way.
It had two grub screws along the shaft, when tightened down it locked the font one-way, so you now had a solid front.
The owner of the Slide said it made a big difference in the wet.
Any thoughts?
All the best
Is there any way to lock the front one-way?
I noticed a guys 1/8th Slide at the track had a lockable front one-way.
It had two grub screws along the shaft, when tightened down it locked the font one-way, so you now had a solid front.
The owner of the Slide said it made a big difference in the wet.
Any thoughts?
All the best