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jp 12 engine horror

jp 12 engine horror

Old 06-30-2005, 06:43 PM
  #31  
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what you see on the piston is probably just left over scum... the piston is aluminum, and aluminum can not physically rust. but it can be tarnished and that is probably tarnished from the epoxy dried up on it (or if you prefer to call it silicone).
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:42 AM
  #32  
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......Looks like something off the TITANIC !


soak it in WD40, dismantle it, replace the bearings & gudgeon pin, it should be ok...

tell you what, I'd be getting rid of that fuel you're using....
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Old 07-01-2005, 02:24 AM
  #33  
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I think the story is half told. No way can an engine rust in the manner shown, unless you soaked it in the Dead Sea! I used O'D as well, and sometimes I didnt even apply any after run oil but the engine is fine even after weeks. Only tiny spots of rust on the counter weight which is easily removed by using some AutoSol.

Last edited by BundyMan; 07-01-2005 at 02:44 AM.
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Old 07-01-2005, 04:53 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BundyMan
I think the story is half told. No way can an engine rust in the manner shown, unless you soaked it in the Dead Sea! I used O'D as well, and sometimes I didnt even apply any after run oil but the engine is fine even after weeks. Only tiny spots of rust on the counter weight which is easily removed by using some AutoSol.
well maybe you feel like telling the other half ???????????????? seeing as you know so much !!!
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Old 07-01-2005, 04:58 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Sp Racer
......Looks like something off the TITANIC !


soak it in WD40, dismantle it, replace the bearings & gudgeon pin, it should be ok...

tell you what, I'd be getting rid of that fuel you're using....
i have heard wd40 is no good when using engines with the red putty stuff in the crankcase , it eats it away , need to use something else that's easy o the red stuff.
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Old 07-01-2005, 05:03 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Did you open up the engine before you ran it? It looks like some of the "rust" has been scraped off of the con rod. Did you do that or was it like that when you opened it up? If it scrapes off like that, it isn't rust, it's build-up. I'm assuming that the engine was used when you bought it and that the previous owner didn't take very good care of it.
yep opened up the backplate and it was definetley brandnew .

yeah i scraped that stuff of the conrod with my finger nail .

cant get the piston sleeve /liner out , its stuck sloid , even after heating it up with hairdryer ?
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Old 07-01-2005, 06:12 AM
  #37  
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If you opened that engine on purchase and it was brand new,there IS definately more to this story than we are being told! I don't need to call you a liar and don't care if you are or not,but that DID NOT HAPPEN IN 3 WEEKS TO AN ENGINE WITH AFTER RUN! To repair boil engine in ethylene glycol antifreeze to remove oxidation, while engine is hot use nylon toothbrush on top of piston to start sleeve moving and remove. Polish piston with light metal polish and check for pitting where it was oxidized,if pitted replace sleeve and piston,if not remove wrist pin and replace.Warm crankcase and remove crank and bearings,REPLACE bearings,polish crank to remove all oxidation.Reassemble engine using Klotz synthetic or Marvel mystery oil,if not replacing sleeve polish all debris from external surfaces,do not polish internally.
Also check carb for internal corrosion clean and repair as necc.The one thing I find most curious is the ring of oxidation around the exhaust sealing flange.
All that being said it would probably be cheaper to buy a new engine,unless you are ver competent at engine rebuilding.
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Old 07-01-2005, 06:25 AM
  #38  
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well as far as i can remember i am not forgetting anything out,
IT DID HAPPEN TO ENGINE IN 3 WEEKS WITH AFTER RUN ,
i dont know why this has happened maybe i didnt get the after run in there properly hence the fuel still sitting in crank case, wish i did know.

funny enough i was trying to move piston sleeve with a toothbrush from the bottom through the backplate opening , what do you mean ( on top of piston ??)

The one thing I find most curious is the ring of oxidation around the exhaust sealing flange
what do you mean ?
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Old 07-01-2005, 07:42 AM
  #39  
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Take a peice of plastic, and put it in the exhaust port, and have the piston push up on the sleeve. Use plastic, so you do not mark the piston or sleeve. You'll only be able to move the sleeve a little, but it should be enough to get something under the lip of the sleeve. Pull the plastic out, and you should be able to remove the sleeve at that point.


Let us know how its going.


Where do you live (near ocean?) and is it possible that water got into the area you stored the engine?

I'm in Florida, and yes, some buildings roof's leak (yours would too after 4 hurricanes)

Hope that helps?
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Old 07-01-2005, 07:59 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Jea3
Take a peice of plastic, and put it in the exhaust port, and have the piston push up on the sleeve. Use plastic, so you do not mark the piston or sleeve. You'll only be able to move the sleeve a little, but it should be enough to get something under the lip of the sleeve. Pull the plastic out, and you should be able to remove the sleeve at that point.


Let us know how its going.


Where do you live (near ocean?) and is it possible that water got into the area you stored the engine?

I'm in Florida, and yes, some buildings roof's leak (yours would too after 4 hurricanes)

Hope that helps?
that very helpfull thanks i will try it and see how it go's ,

i dont live anywhere near the sea . no way i can think of water getting in there, all my cars are stored in my house , and has been ok so far.
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Old 07-01-2005, 08:53 AM
  #41  
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I'm pretty sure this is fuel problem (maybe it's too old, or you didn't soak it well before you put in the fuel bottle) And I also think this can be happen in only 2 days time (my friend has experienced this)

When you broken in an engine, the fuel mixture is set to very rich. So if you left them even with enough after run oil, the fuel left in the engine still can cause this when the nitro and oil dry.
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:42 AM
  #42  
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hhmmm....... maybe your dog or cat pee on the carburator inlet ???
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:54 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by sonik
?? i'm not a liar , as far as i can remember i have told you all that i have done to this engine , it was put away for between 2/3 weeks , cant remember exactly how long, and i used after run as soon as i finshed running it , when i found this rust inside i soaked the engine (below the flywheel and bearing ) in petrol (for 1/1 car 's) and this is the outcome , why would i lie ?

i tryed to a presise as i could, and you call me a liar, i'm offended by that ,

you didnt really contribute much to the thread in the way of help either , only to tell me you have never seen an engine that bad , and take the P about the pacific !!

i'm pissed off enough about this engine already , dont need to be told i am lying, when i need some help.

i have been told all i need is new bearings and a good clean with a dremel , not dead yet !!

Forgot to finish page 2............I really would like to know what kind of OD fuel that you were using to get these effect.....
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:10 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Jea3
Take a peice of plastic, and put it in the exhaust port, and have the piston push up on the sleeve. Use plastic, so you do not mark the piston or sleeve. You'll only be able to move the sleeve a little, but it should be enough to get something under the lip of the sleeve. Pull the plastic out, and you should be able to remove the sleeve at that point.


Let us know how its going.


Where do you live (near ocean?) and is it possible that water got into the area you stored the engine?

I'm in Florida, and yes, some buildings roof's leak (yours would too after 4 hurricanes)

Hope that helps?
I use a zip tie.......exact same methrod and perfect for removing P/S, and easy to find in your tool box.
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:39 PM
  #45  
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i tryed the zip tie trick , but no luck with that just kept snapping them ,

the fuel is ok , not old, i'm using it in my other cars . it's Odonnel 20% rtr

Last edited by sonik; 07-01-2005 at 01:57 PM.
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