bucketboy

Frustating when things break for no obvious reason and the fact that yours break in the same place would suggest a weakness in that area, that said I have not seen any breakages despite some big hits. The speedo's that I have seen going into revese did not have reverse enabled either, it only happened when the brakes where applied hard while the motor was spinning fast, this tends to strip the spur gear but I can imagine that if it were to happen while the steering had some degree of turn while using a spool then the shafts might fail. Are you running standard track width at the front, making it wider by only a few tenths of a mill puts a massive increase in the loads applied to the shafts?

What ever the reason, glad you seemed to have resolved your problem with after market parts.

Bb

morgoth

Indeed, I think other component like the spur/belts would also fail in mod if the speedo would do these crazy things. And I'd feel it too.
My FF block has the 0.5mm out inserts to achieve inboard toe-out.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I think the plastic outdrives are your problem. They break then the shaft is flopping around at high speed. There is no way the shaft will survive IMO.

Track width will not affect the load on the shafts at all. The shaft is still the same length. If the shaft were longer then yes it would see an increase.

morgoth

They don't break but they get sloppy after a few meetings. I tried different kinds of grease, but it seems it doesn't help.
I think I'll go with the steel outdrives combined with blades.

Chris kal

I'm running on a high grip track and I'm having problems getting 1.5 rear toe I'm getting two different readings left side is 1.5 and right side is on 1 with the same blocks can anyone help on what bushings to use or is it something else.

NEED-MORE-SPEED

iTrader: (11)

I agree with Odin on this.

I ran the 14T4 for 3 months every weekend using the spool and the plastic outdrives that came in the kit and never broke an outdrive, axle or drive shaft until this past Sunday. I retired the T4 last weekend and so happens I broke my first outdrive on my last outing and came up with a rational reason why.

Prior to purchasing the 14T4 I read almost the entire thread trying to learn from other peoples mistakes and taking advantage of tech tips avoiding most of the trial and error mishaps. There was two tips I found interesting in relation to the factory spool/plastic outdrives that I took advantage of.

* Wrap the entire plastic outdrive with battery strapping tape (two revolutions). This will allow the plastic to expand under extreme stress and help prevent the outdrive from splitting. This isn't a bullet proof method but does strengthen the outdrive a great deal, offering the little flex it needs without exploding.

* When screwing the plastic outdrive to the spool. Tighten the outdrive screw until your snug (don't over tighten), then back the screw out slightly until you have some lateral play < --> then tighten up "slightly" until lateral play is removed. This will allow the outdrive, once again have another source to absorb the energy of abuse. This method you'll see, when "holding the spool tightly" and twisting the outdrive, you'll find a tiny bit of play (counter and clockwise) and will help insure a longer life span and a consistent working spool that you can have confidence in.

I strongly recommend this tech tip as this past Sunday I unraveled the battery strap tape from both spool cups. The reason I removed and didn't replace was because the tape was almost 3 months old and was coming off the outdrives. Pure laziness was the reason I didn't replace with new tape and then presto, my spool outdrive spilt in 30 pieces during the main "after 3 months" of abuse with the tape. Hope this helps

erchn

iTrader: (7)

I personally find the larger diameter of the RSD outdrives better. Blades last quite a bit longer.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I run front diffs in my mod and blinky T4's with 2.5 mil Gravity. Haven't bent or broken a shaft all season on carpet, didn't lose much pull on corner exit either. For me, the bonus was gaining some entry and mid corner speed.

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

I run the xray spring steel outdrives with 52mm 2mm pin ecs shafts up front. This has been the most reliable/ durable setup I have used. This is with a boosted 5.0 on an indoor carpet track with hard barriers. I've bent a shaft from a really solid hit, but I have not had a dnf because of them. Xray/ hudy quality is hard to beat. The set im currently running has been in use since December and are as free and smooth as the day I built them. Same set I used at the nats and is the same set I will use at mile high.

bucketboy

The track width does have an effect on load. The outside wheel travels further than the inside, the wider the wheels are apart the more that disparity in distance, running on high grip surface with a spool it will increase the load on the shaft.

Bb

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Our you could just get some Side Piece Racing Nikita outdrives and run 50mm ecs or bones. These won't fail like your stock cups. Combine that with Roche orange blades for the more reliable front end setup.

Skiddins

Check that the pivot blocks themselves are mounted squarely.

When tightening the screws for the split blocks it's very easy for them to twist anti-clockwise slightly when tightening.

Skiddins.

veecee

iTrader: (34)

Get the Smokem spool cups which let you use the Tamiya DCJ's. It's the toughest and smoothest setup out there.

Warren Weaver

iTrader: (49)

There Bullet proof and they look very nice

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

If any of u guys have bought longer turnbuckles for ur camber links what would/did u get
stock length is 26mm long and need (want) some 30mm just incase I need to run long links in rear.
would be nice to use same wrench for these and others on car .
yokomo has some cheap
lunsford
their was a few others brands I seen as well but not aure of the wrench size
any suggestions