Robbob

iTrader: (8)

IF Xray fit then I can tell you ARC will too.

hairless_ape

iTrader: (3)

For those of you running VTA: what's your gearing?

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

Gearing is subject to track size. Indoor carpet w/85ft. straights 4.00-3.6 fdr.
Outside w/ 185ft. straights 3.2-2.5 fdr.

hairless_ape

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Mooby, but I was more looking for what size spur/pinion combos fit to achieve that fdr. And what brand spurs fit the TC10.

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

I used Xray spurs. 92t 64p-100t 64p.
I removed the rear chassis brace (in front of the motor mount) in able to use just about any gear combo I may need. Removing the brace gives the chassis a little more flex. With the brace installed, you have a very limited amount of adjustment as for gearing.

hairless_ape

iTrader: (3)

Excellent tip, removing the brace. Appreciate it.

Joe Kimble

iTrader: (19)

Hi guys, went to a club race yesterday. I hadn't raced electric in a year it was lots of fun.

Took TQ and broke the track lap record with a 9.2s.
Finished 2nd in the main.

killeraxemannic

iTrader: (1)

Hi everyone. I got the TR10 version of this and I am liking it a lot. I was able to get into the A main of touring car 21.5 with it on the stock setup in a 3 day event. Only thing I changed was the spur gear and the drive pulleys. I got the upgraded aluminum pullies and the shaft as well as switched to an Xray offset 96T spur gear. This allowed me to run 96/47 gears for 3.88 with no rubbing issues on the chassis brace. You do have to drill 2 holes in the xray gear to get it to fit but it's still perfectly centered around the pulley even if you don't get your holes perfectly lined up. Car was really easy to drive and nothing broke during the 7 races. I was really impressed with how it held up. Definitely feel like I got my moneys worth. Only things I am planning on changing now are getting the aluminum motor and pulley mounts as well as the aluminum servo mount. Both plastic pieces flex a lot. The servo mount flexes enough that it's hard to get the car calibrated perfectly straight, and the plastic motor/pulley mounts flex a bit and will cause the spur gear to get stripped if you run too much tension on the front belt. Overall I don't think the price is too bad. $179 for the car plus about $40 worth of upgrade parts make it pretty darn race worthy.

hairless_ape

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, the servo mount is definitely the first upgrade. It's the only one I did on my son's TR10 that he uses for VTA.

killeraxemannic

iTrader: (1)

Just saw this from a while ago but as I said in my last post the Xray offset 64P spur gears work but you have to drill them. You do kinda have to go with the aluminum T01025, T01026, and T01027 as well as a couple extra bearings and spacers to run the drilled gears. The plastic belt wheel that comes on the TR10 relies on the screws for gear alignment where as the T01027 relies on the shaft so drilled holes don't hurt even if they are drilled much bigger than needed as long as they hold the gear down. I used the stock gear as a pattern for drilling the Xray gear. I put screws through the bottom of the xray gear and then set the stock gear on top and drilled through the stock holes down into the xray gear. If you run the 96 tooth xray gear you can run all the way up to a 50T pinion without hitting the chassis brace which imho is needed because the chassis flexes a lot even with it installed. If you try this with the plastic pullies just make sure that you have everything lined up perfectly when drilling because if you don't the gear will be off center and will strip out.

hairless_ape

iTrader: (3)

I found it unnecessary to add the two extra holes when using an Xray spur (which I only use below 96t). But if you are going to do so, then the proper way would be to make a simple jig with a small piece of MDF. It would only take about 10 mins, and then you know your holes would be lined up perfectly every time.

In order to make this simple jig start with a thin (maybe 1/2") chunk of MDF, smaller than the diameter of you Team C spur. Start by drilling a tiny hole in the MDF through one of the spur mounting holes. Then use a screw to attach the spur at that hole. Repeat this at the opposing corner. You will use these two points to attach your new spurs to the jig. The procedure for the other 2 holes will be different. Find a drill bit that just barely passes through the mounting holes without catching. Wrap all but the first 1/8-1/4" of the bit tightly in a single piece of tape (you don't want to ruin your spur). You are going to put the bit through the 3rd mounting hole and drill all the way out the back of the MDF. Repeat for the 4th hole. Your jig is finished.

Now when ever you get another spur that you need to add the 3rd and 4th hole you simply attach the spur to the front, and then drill through the pilot holes you made. You drill from the back out the front through the spur. Do it with tape on the bit just like you did when you made the holes, this time so you don't distort the holes in the jig.

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

So is the TR10 a clone of the Xray 2015? Or 2014? Or 2013? Also, how much of the graphite is the same?

Conrad

iTrader: (3)

2015 Model Coming Soon
http://www.redrc.net/2015/06/team-c-...on/#more-98073

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

Everyone says soon, but I'm not sure what that means 3 months? 3 weeks?

vicbarzo

I am currently in the process of building a new TC 10. I was just about to fill the diff when I noticed the the diff connecting cup assembly is insanely tight, as the if the whole in the cup side of the diff isn't large enough for the shaft on the connecting cup.

Is this normal? If not how do I fix it? I thought about using sandpaper but I am worried that the enlarged hole will be to coarse possibly out of round, and that it will take forever.

I'd appreciate any guidance you all can offer.