From the quick question department: 4 cell battery pack wiring....
#1
From the quick question department: 4 cell battery pack wiring....
The included picture shows how most 6 cell saddle packs are wired up and I assume most 4 cells as well with the bridge just being a piece or wire.
Is there any advantage to this method as I've never seen any packs wired up with the bridge being the plug (assuming not being hard wired that is)?
Just wondering because I've yet to start building my first saddle packs.
Is there any advantage to this method as I've never seen any packs wired up with the bridge being the plug (assuming not being hard wired that is)?
Just wondering because I've yet to start building my first saddle packs.
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
If you have to split your pack (like pictured) you have to use a bridge wire to connect the cells.
If you don't hardwire, you still have to solder the plug wires on the end of the other cells. (Or else solder a battery bar for a tab to hard wire)
If you are running a chassis that you don't have to split the battery, there is no need for the bridge wire. (Battery on one side of the car...radio gear on the other to balance the weight)
I assume if you are splitting the cells, you are running 1/12th scale?
If you don't hardwire, you still have to solder the plug wires on the end of the other cells. (Or else solder a battery bar for a tab to hard wire)
If you are running a chassis that you don't have to split the battery, there is no need for the bridge wire. (Battery on one side of the car...radio gear on the other to balance the weight)
I assume if you are splitting the cells, you are running 1/12th scale?
#3
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
The included picture shows how most 6 cell saddle packs are wired up and I assume most 4 cells as well with the bridge just being a piece or wire.
Is there any advantage to this method as I've never seen any packs wired up with the bridge being the plug (assuming not being hard wired that is)?
Just wondering because I've yet to start building my first saddle packs.
Is there any advantage to this method as I've never seen any packs wired up with the bridge being the plug (assuming not being hard wired that is)?
Just wondering because I've yet to start building my first saddle packs.
I would not place a plug in the jumper wire. If you are going to be using the pack in a 1/12th car, then make the jumper wire long enough to go over the center shock or just pop the shock loose when you want to change battery packs. That way you can keep the jumper wire short and low in the chassis. Makes for better body mounting.
#4
Originally Posted by Crashby
Yes. You would wire a four cell saddle pack the same way as a six cell saddle pack although you do have a few options.
I would not place a plug in the jumper wire. If you are going to be using the pack in a 1/12th car, then make the jumper wire long enough to go over the center shock or just pop the shock loose when you want to change battery packs. That way you can keep the jumper wire short and low in the chassis. Makes for better body mounting.
I would not place a plug in the jumper wire. If you are going to be using the pack in a 1/12th car, then make the jumper wire long enough to go over the center shock or just pop the shock loose when you want to change battery packs. That way you can keep the jumper wire short and low in the chassis. Makes for better body mounting.
#5
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
So it's not that my idea wouldn't work it's just done the other way because it's easier to get the stuff under the body? lol