Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

Soap; Cristian@Reflexracing got Panaracer spurs and pinions now. He has115- 92t in Panaracer and 80- 76t in Xenon spurs. And up to a 60t Panaracer pinion!

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

That's good to know! Wish I would've known, I placed a good size order with beamcat a couple of weeks ago.

Simmi

Hi guys, thanks for your reply but today I was testing without motor bulkhead R.

Have found that the car was very agile to drive directly and fantastic. Has anyone of you ever tested?

Unfortunately, I had no way to measure the times but I felt the TRF was faster.

picture attached

2-Bad

iTrader: (24)

Not what you have done, but yes the Samix conversion (Chassis & motor mount). The Samix runs a single sided mount with a 5mm dia layshaft shaft to support the additional loads.
I've only had one meeting with race times so far and it's an improvement over the kit chassis in mod racing.

In my opinion, the problem with this car is not the motor mount. The Samix is the 3rd chassis I've tried and it's staying on! The two different styles of motor mounts (Tamiya and Samix) I think with yield different handling characteristics that will depend on the circumstances you need at your track conditions. The beauty of the Samix chassis is you can run either motor mount as it has mounting holes for both. But I'm yet to revert back to the Tamiya mount to confirm my opinions.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

That really seems to be a consistent opinion.

13.5/17.5 blinky or otherwise, run the std 418

Mod - needs something else. But even the TRF boys aren't quite sure what yet!

Dusttt

iTrader: (144)

Ok Thanks! I didn't have the shorts to compare so that helps a ton!

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

90T-spur/51-pinion=3.265
90T-spur/51-pinion=3.202

Hermit 713

Was looking to get into some 1/10 onroad racing, and read about (xray, serpernt, Tamiya, associated ect) GOOD LORD..... Are any of the cars just GOOD TO GO?????

"Modify this, replace this with that from Those guys, but use those guys brand for this"..
I don't think I would have all the time to try to fix all what is wrong with EVERY BRAND of car....

I am not knocking you guys....at all... I love ANY rc sport, or racing in general...

It seems that NO MFG. can make a decent car that isn't all Wacked up ....
Plastic brittle...
Car can't turn,
Diffs are Loose, and don't fit tight
The Outdrives ware too fast ect ect

It seems to take the fun out of it for me anyway....
You can't just go out and drive it, you got to change 4 things just to make it driveable...

Perhaps it is that I am tired right now..????
I don't know what to think about this stuff...

Qatmix

Yep all top end cars are great, however the nature of racing is always to strive to improve your times to compete or stay ahead of the competition.

I have raced a lot of cars (see www.TheRcRacer.com ) and they all have pro's and cons. Out of the issues you list above the 418 doesn't have any of those. At my local club its a very successful chassis (17.5 blinky).

But as is the nature of racing, if I can change a part to make it even faster and to help me win by a bigger margin, then lets do it, part of the fun is tinkering with the cars (Such as Simmi running without the motor mount, trying the Samix conversion etc).

If you have any questions feel free to ask, onroad as a class is very friendly and open as we all are here to just have a great days racing

niznai

Take it easy. If you're just after some cheap fun and you find a place near you with a class to suit, get into minis. You can land a Tamiya mini on the track for less than 300$ (including cheap electronics but not radio) and the beauty of it is that it doesn't make any difference what you change on it, it will be absolutely the same. Build it as per manual instructions and go have fun.

Touring cars are expensive, but depending on class I think any of the offerings on the market are good enough out of the box. A lot of complaining comes from people who either want too much or run more powerful classes. For 21.5/17.5 I would say just about anything will do the job out of the box, including even the cheaper Tamiya kits (don't know about other brands' cheap kits).

For faster classes you need a bit of tuning even for a top end kit (depending on track more than anything else), but not necessarily changing or buying extra gear.

Maybe look into a good s/h car perhaps at your local track where you can get more local info?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

I'm new to 1/10th TC as well. I'm 35 and racing RC for the first time since a very small foray when I was 15! Chucking myself in the deepens.

I'm running a TRF418 in 13.5t blinky, as far a changes from box stock I have the following as I wanted to build "my" ultimate 418 (based on the stock chassis anyway);

- Titanium and blue aluminium screws - they look cooler (and save a very marginal amount of weight). I even tracked down some 2.6mm x 8mm ones you don't need these to be under weight!

- Red Orings in the diff - not needed, but apparently leak less. Consumable item.
- 1600wt diff oil - 900 from the kit would probably be okay, but it's a consumable anyway.

- 50wt shock oil - similar to above the 400 from the kit would be okay, consumable.
- Ride Red springs - springs are a tuning tool, and pretty much anyone and everyone is running ride red or HPI silver, so why wouldn't i
- TRF ball nut and titanium hollow set screws - make removing shocks ever so slightly easier to remove. Not required to go fast.
- TRF low friction damper V parts - not even the team guys bother with these, but they are a couple of bucks and I wanted to try them. Not required to go fast.
- Titanium coated suspension shafts. They dropped these from the 418 (417 had them) and again, I wanted them as part of my no compromise build. Not required to go fast.
- Blue O rings for the shocks. Apparently better than the clear ones. Consumable item again.

- Damper spacers on the steering - purely cosmetic. No function at all.
- TRF body mounts. Mildly functional. But they look cool too.
- A pair of 630 bearings - to make a low drag rear lipo stop. The kit should include this I think. $5 worth!

Most of the above only cost a few bucks each (but does add up) but absolutely none of them are either required nor likely to make a novice like me any faster. I also used none of the stock grease etc - again overkill.

I've only has a few runs so far and out of the box it is fast, balanced and so easy to drive. I have a TA06 as well and they are POLES apart even though the TA06 cost just as much by the time I had thrown a few upgrade parts at it - which it DID need.

Actually I forgot two items, and both are essential.
- different spur gear. No way to achieve the FDR I need for 13.5t blinky with the stock spur. 108t for me for now.
- A set of 3,4,5mm shims. I didn't use many, the keys ones are extra under the shock pistons and also in the hubs.

I think you would find a similar story with any of the top chassis.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Talking about the build I undertook has spurned me to take some quick snaps on the desk







Must give some thanks to Kentech and Qatmix for some of the ideas and advice as well

dizope

iTrader: (5)

cplus, you should put holes in the top of the ball cups. I use a body reamer to make a hole just large enough for a 2mm hex driver to fit. Be sure to clean any debris and make sure the cup moves freely on the ballstud afterwards.

This will keep your ballcups free of plier marks during routine adjustments and disassembly.

dizope

iTrader: (5)

I need new diff outdrive bearings. I was thinking about ceramic but don't know which size. The manual just says 1510. Any suggestions?

niznai

Er-1510 perhaps?