cplus

iTrader: (11)

I use AVID right now. $1 per bearing! Way cheaper than stock. Not appreciably slower.

I also have an RPM bearing blaster. I tried to keep the tamiya ones in good nick, but they died as fast as cheap bearings.

For me it was the 1050's that became gritty first.

Salkin

OK, thanks a lot

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I use the cheapest metal shielded bearings I can get from HK. In fact I got some Arena bearings for $8. Came with 4 diff size bearings and 8 wheel bearings. I replace them anytime I feel it getting gritty. You can also pick up a set of 10 bearings for the double jointed axles 10x5x3? for less than $7. I replace those all the time. Those would be my number one pic on bearings because they are so thin and have a heavy load on them.

Salkin

I have ordered a complete set of bearings and extra of the axle bearings.

Gordie88

iTrader: (2)

Smokem has them.. Tell them Gordie sent you...

They have a good chassis and screws kit aswell!

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

Almost breaking the front swing shaft protector after each run with blinky 17.5 class. Is there a reason why these are always breaking? I been using the pink ones by Mr. Roche

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

That's why I switched to the Spec R Ver.2 spool.

jdawg81

iTrader: (1)

Where is everyone getting their Square aluminum c-hubs from? I haven't raced mine yet so I don't know how easily the c-hubs break but the Square parts look nice a durable.

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

Bad design on the 418 spool outdrives? Seems like it eats up whatever I put on there.

Salkin

I also had the blades coming off after each run on both my 417v5 and 418.

I ordered the 19804512 Direct Cups for both cars and now live happily without blades in the front.

Never popped a blade in the rear, though.

Salkin

Another noob question.

Measuring droop/downstop. In the 418 setup sheets, like this one:

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...urg2014060608/

- the droop/downstop is measured from the bottom of the chassis to the "center" of the arm/pin, as shown in the setup sheet.

I have one of these standard droop measure gauges that measures from the bottom of the chassis to the underside of the arm.

If the setup sheet shows 5mm droop do I then subtract e.g. 2.5mm from this, compensating for the distance from the underside of the arm to the center of the arm/pin?

The setup sheets for e.g. the Xray T4 shows droop measured under the arm:

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/xray...endip20140810/

sosidge

If the measurement is 5mm, it will have been measured under the arm. Measured to the centre of the pin usually comes out in the 8-9mm range.

Salkin

Yes, I know i sounds foolish, but the picture in the setup sheet indicates 5mm measured from the bottom of the chassis plate to the center of the arm/pin.

Maybe this is just an incorrect depiction of how to measure the droop.

So, I place the car on the droop blocks and measure to 5mm on the droop gauge? This will give me the 5mm droop specified in the setup sheet?

It seems logical comparing to the Xray setup sheet linked to, as droop here is also in the 5mm region. But that setup sheet just shows how to measure it correctly (to under the arm).

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Don't get too hung up on the how with droop measurement, just make sure you always measure the same way and it is repeatable.

Unless of course you are simply trying to copy someone else's setup.

Salkin

Guilty as charged.....I'm trying to copy a setup.

But, I can see that most run e.g. 5mm droop, so I want to set mine accordingly.

Was just confused how to measure it as I interpreted the depiction in the 418 setup sheets literally and measured from the bottom of the chassis to the center of the arm/pin.

This will give me a droop approx. 2.5mm less than the specified 5mm.