nitro929

iTrader: (10)

I haven't read all of the post but was wondering how everyone is breaking the nut off of the hinge pins? I have had my d413 for about 3 1/2 months now and have had no issues with the pins other then a nut coming off of the hinge pin in a race..

nv529

iTrader: (53)

Do not tighten down the nuts or they will shear off. I run mine loose with about .5-1mm of play.

nv529

iTrader: (53)

When running 100% full (oil oozing out during diff assembly) I've notice my diffs would "thicken up" after a run. I have a ton of hours on my car (300+) so it maybe a wear related thing. The best solution I've found was to run slightly less diff fluid around 60-75% full and heavier oils to mimic the same "feel" as 100% full.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

anyone know if there is a big difference between the mc electrons and the m4 supersoft electrons? im running on med bite hard packed indoor clay. which should i go with that would be best?

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Lol, yep, the M4 are going to be softer and on clay will wear faster. Have you tried one or the other? We run electrons on packed clay that is almost high bite at times and the M4 work well, but wear quicker. The MC have a tick less grip but last much longer.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

im running the m4 now but will do anything for more traction lol. my track is a hard packed dirt that is moist indoor

Mantis Toboggan

iTrader: (4)

Dude, you run on a medium bite track, there is not some magic setup or set of tires that is suddenly going to make your car have way more traction than everyone else. For the last 6 pages almost every other post has been you asking about making massive changes. If you think your car is that terrible, let a couple fast guys take it for a spin and see what they think. In all likely hood the car is fine, and you just need to be a better driver.

hiangoh

iTrader: (1)

just got my d413 in sunny singapore! one of the rare few guys here running this amazing car. my question is sofar the build has gone well, but i notice the front cvd dogbanes barely touch the drive cups of the differential. in fact when the suspension arms are fully down the top of the dogbone is slightly out of the drivecup. is this normal? I've checked if i've assembled something wrongly but i don't think so.......

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

make sure you have the front bones in the front.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

ur diffs are backwards i did the same thing

hiangoh

iTrader: (1)

omg that stumped me big time..... thanks guys!!!

Tobiasmart

The standard caster block is 10° according the manual.

Do anyone know if there is options available with different angles? Or maybe there are different brand caster blocks that will fit?

Boostgod

iTrader: (8)

I'm building the kit to the tessman carpet setup.

When he says build shocks with no bladder what does that entail?

Is there a special way to do this or do I just not put a bladder in?

Do I cut the bladdersm so there is still a seal?

How do I bleed them? With the screw in the cap?

skyline1015

iTrader: (149)

Go he the 1st page of the thread. There is an explanation on the shock setup.

Boostgod

iTrader: (8)

Thanks,

The carpet setup doesn't mention rebound. Any idea how much if any re abound to put into the shocks?