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Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

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Last edit by: alex4r

Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts (* = required to update ZX6 to ZX6.6 platform)

LA359B - Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)*
LA375 - Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)*
LA375-01 - Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 - Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 - Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)*
LA377 - Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)* (x2)
LA378 - Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)*
LA379 - Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)*
LAW54B-01 - HD Chassis*
LA355B - Side guard set*
UM713B - Rear Arms (from RB6)*
UM561 - Outer rear hinge pins*
LA236-12B - 1.2mm Front sway bar*
LA351B 4-hole front shock tower*

Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals

Lazer ZX6.6
Lazer ZX6

After Market Bodies

JConcepts Silencer

Weight Reduction options for 13.5 Class

Chassis:

UMW711B - Carbon composite rear arms
LAW60 - Carbon composite front upper bulkhead
LAW61 - Carbon composite rear upper bulkhead
LAW52 - Carbon composite front chassis brace
LAW53 - Carbon composite rear chassis brace
LA209HB - Carbon composite gear boxes (pinion bearing retainer & upper gearbox half only, lower half not compatible/saves 4.6g total)

Driveline:

LA211B - Plastic drive cups for center drive shafts coming out of front & rear gear boxes (requires drilling two holes for set screws to secure LA379)
TFW001 - Aluminum blade style outdrives (for ball diff/requires TF013)
LA202 - Aluminum pinion shafts (for ball diff)
TFW126 - VVC outdrives (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
TFW008 - VVC cross pins (for gear diff - front/rear/center)

Misc:

LAB06LW - LW Blade body
SK0402 - Ti screw set (Available at Lunsfordracing.com)
PTK-T-2111 - Ti screw set (cheaper, slightly less durable option)
LNS7765 - Ti ball studs
LNS2688 - Ti Turnbuckles
LNS36107 - Ti Turnbuckles (super duty)
W0201H - Hard anodized lower shock balls
1-N3024A-R - Aluminum M3x2.4 nuts (for shock standoffs)
1-N3033NA-R - Aluminum M3x3.3 locknuts

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08-30-2014, 07:09 AM

#871

njc11

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Quote:

Originally Posted by K_King

Yeah I do like the shock mounting locations. I also prefer the sway bar mount. The downside is they are more expensive. I like the stock arms better though. I think for 4W you need that rear to be a little flatter through corners.

Yeah the RB6 arms seem to give a lot more steering so I don't think necessary on the ZX6...mid corner of power especially... Kit arms gives in my opinion more consistent steering through the whole turn...

In the UK a lot of people on the RB6 run these arms for that reason alone WITH the new inside hole...I guess that's because we all run on high grip astro..

I will be trying however the new hole on the RB6 arms on my RB6..

08-30-2014, 10:15 PM

#872

Rybeau40

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Anyone have a chart for the various suspension holders front and back and what type of degrees each combo entails?

08-30-2014, 11:39 PM

#873

njc11

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rybeau40

Anyone have a chart for the various suspension holders front and back and what type of degrees each combo entails?

Have a look on petitrc under ZX6 and you will see the rear ones.. Then look under RB6 for what I'm sure will be the front ones for the ZX6... ( same inserts etc used)

08-31-2014, 05:41 AM

#874

Rybeau40

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Yea, looked there already, but the link for the chart does not work on the zx-6 sus holders amd RB-6 only has links for it's rear holders, which are different. Can't believe the manual doesn't have a chart.

Last edited by Rybeau40; 08-31-2014 at 06:00 AM.

08-31-2014, 06:27 AM

#875

negatv1

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Yes, should be in the manual - but it's not. I asked about this when I first built my car too.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...olderChart.pdf

That will work for F/R inserts.

Basically allows you to not only change toe-in (or sweep in the front), but also track width depending on which inserts you use to achieve said toe in.

Notice on most setups the front will be C/C, which map out to zero degree toe, using the chart. And the rear will be some combination to achieve toe-in.

08-31-2014, 06:43 AM

#876

Rybeau40

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What handling change occurs going from 3.0 to 3.5? Thanks for that chart.

08-31-2014, 06:49 AM

#877

njc11

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Quote:

Originally Posted by K_King

Some are trying it, I like the stock arms or NCG arms if you want the RB6 style.

Ive had a look and measured different holes on the different wishbones, NCG, KIT and RB6 they all seem the same to me??

08-31-2014, 06:52 AM

#878

negatv1

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Adds more toe-in same as any other car - More forward traction, at cost of some rear side bite. Run less toe-in when the grip is high to free the car up/rotate better in corners.

08-31-2014, 05:07 PM

#879

rcmad2700

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hay guys just wondering how you are attaching the rear sway bar when using the RB6 rear arms

08-31-2014, 05:49 PM

#880

jmoneym

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Quote:

Originally Posted by K_King

If you have the kit you're fine. If you're trying to piece it together you'll need those. There's velvet coated ones as well but I can't find those either lol

Thanks. I'm starting my build tomorrow, doing everything except diffs. The Law50 will be here this week.

08-31-2014, 05:50 PM

#881

teeforb

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What do I suppose to shim for the front center dog bone? Mines is coming out. I see nothing in the instructions of shimming

08-31-2014, 06:31 PM

#882

cnelson3

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I'm curious, why gear diffs? My standard ball diffs are solid and handling great. I check them between runs just to make sure they are tight but I'm not yet seeing the need.

08-31-2014, 06:41 PM

#883

vr6cj

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cnelson3

I'm curious, why gear diffs? My standard ball diffs are solid and handling great. I check them between runs just to make sure they are tight but I'm not yet seeing the need.

High bite sugar tracks will benefit with gear diff due to the added traction and then there's the maintence part.

08-31-2014, 06:57 PM

#884

negatv1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rcmad2700

hay guys just wondering how you are attaching the rear sway bar when using the RB6 rear arms

RB6 MM rear sway bar kit has everything you need.

08-31-2014, 07:04 PM

#885

jmoneym

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cnelson3

I'm curious, why gear diffs? My standard ball diffs are solid and handling great. I check them between runs just to make sure they are tight but I'm not yet seeing the need.

For me it's a maintenance thing. Lazy racer here

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