MD

iTrader: (136)

I got this stock number SAK-U316 from parts list on TQ RC Racing for the XI Sport. When i do a search on Integy it comes up low stock. May be I have the wrong part number.

jason w

Awesome. Thank you so much for your help

jcr

anyone find the car a little twitchy on the straight? How did you guys fix it?

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

1' front toe out
#2 swaybar
Spool up front (or 1 million oil diff)
Run a slightly stiffer spring in front vs rear

All in all, pretty standard stuff. If you still find it twitchy, apply only half tire sauce up front and full tire sauce in rear.

Hope this helps.

alex_blais

Completely new to touring cars and many things I would like to know. Thanks in advance guys:

1. Since sway bar kit are all BO. Can I use the ones from Zero S if I buy the arms from Zero S? What else would I need to buy for this to fit? Wheel carriers?
2. Do the arms from Zero S fit this car?
3. What parts are compatible with Zero S and Ultimate? Does anyone have a chart?
4. What the heck does FDR mean?
5. Whats a good setup for diff fluid, shock fluid and shock piston hole size?
6. With 17.5 motor, what pinion should I use on 2S with stock gearing?
7. Any other must have hop ups aside from sway bars?


Hey thanks again guys looking forward to testing this bad boy on an indoor 40 x 80' carpet track.

kamlooper

iTrader: (7)

I have a brand new roller for sale with a few upgrades and extras. Pm me if interested.

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

1: yes the zero swaybars will work. You will need SAK U106 to mount the swaybars, as they directly bolt "into" the XI arms.

2:yes. Front and back arms are a direct bolt on.

3: Everything except the steering system, bulkheads, and diff cams is interchangeable between the two cars.

4: multiply your spur/pinion ratio by 2.0. You achieve 2.0 on the Xi sport by dividing your diff (38 teeth) over your pulley (19 teeth). Aim for a final drive Ratio of 4.2 with a 17.5 motor. It will be slower than other cars, but until you are comfortable with handling the speed, there is no point in crashing faster.

5: use the setting in the kit manual (it's a good universal setup) until you are comfortable and understand the car. Telling you to put softer springs in the back right now would be pointless, until you understand what softer springs do.


6:get a team associated 66 tooth spur, and attach a 29 tooth pinion (both 48 pitch). This will get you to the 4.2 final drive ratio. 48 pitch gears will give you more durability than a 64 pitch, if you are just starting out.

7: fiddle around with a swaybar kit and spring kit when you have a good grasp of the car. Sak U106 is needed, as already mentioned, to mount the swaybars. Get the 66 tooth team associated spur. The stock one is too big. Buy extra knuckles, arms, and c hubs. If you are worried about crashing a lot, buy a diff to put into the front and fill it with 200K. It will make the car easier to drive than the plastic spool, and 10 times less likely to break upon impact.

Welcome to onroad touring cars. Don't feel that your $80 touring car is inferior to others. It's always fun to know that my $80 car can beat guys running 10 times more expensive equipment.

alex_blais

SAK U106 is a battery holder? but I think I see the part that screws in the arm and holds the ball.
What about the arms or links between the sway bar and arm, don't you need to get those or does the kit come with them?
Zero S, XI Sport and Ultimate are compatible aside from steering?


Thanks to all replies. I was gonna buy a turnigy whatever Zero S, after reading went to rcmart, found it, but then the XI for 79$, read about that a bunch. Then buying from dinball (RC mart ebay) my price was 105$USD including shipping (RC mart was 116$).
How the hell can you resist that?
I forgot to mention that I race 1/8 nitro buggy so I have RC car driving experience but just do it for fun. I mostly fly RC airplanes and love my little 32 inch highly DIY modified, glassed, etc flying wing that goes 200mph (clocked with radar gun) and cost me around 200$. Has a 6S setup puling over 100 amps!
Before reading about this, I did not know about 3Racing. Thank God for them

What I really enjoy is pushing the boundaries of speed for as little money as possible ( I fly faster then some guys with beginner turbine models worth 5000$+)

alex_blais

HHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!

FDR has to mean FINAL DRIVE RATIO!!! Eureka!!!!

Yeah the 17.5 is for racing at my local club.
What FRD are those guys using?

alex_blais

Don't you need SAK-45 or something? If using Zero arms? Or something similar if using XI arms?
http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-stabil...=595_1419_1467

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

If you are buying the Xi sport kit, Sak U106 won't be necessary. Just make sure you have some 1mm screws.

Sak 45 is good, if you don't have any extra ball cups and ball ends lying around. The main difference is that the zero front arms require the swaybar to be bolted "on to" the arm, like most traditional touring cars (the link has a ball cup on both ends).

The Xi front arms require the swaybar to be bolted "into" the front arm. That is to say there is a ball cup attached to the swaybar, and a ball joint that directly pops into the middle of the front arm.

If you have spare ball cups and ball ends, you won't need a mounting kit. But if this is your first time with a touring car, getting Sak 45 is not a bad idea.

Again, don't worry too much about swaybars. It's going to be 3 or 4 weeks before your kit arrives to canada (unless you paid for express shipping). Get used to how the car handles and then start tuning with different springs and swaybars. By the time you get the kit, Xi swaybars will probably be in stock again anyways.

Or just pick up Kamlooper's Xi. You'll have it in less than a week and be loaded with goodies. In a month, when your dinball order finally arrives, you'll have the spare parts that you need.

alex_blais

Yes 1st time with touring cars.
So getting the:
1. sway bar kit
2. 1mm screws. This seems small...1mm diameter x what lenght? and what head? Never mind Ultimate manual says M1.6 x 5 SHCS
3. SAk-45

Will let me install the sway bar?

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

If it's your first time with touring cars, learn to drive without a swaybar kit. The basic manual setup is good enough to put a decent driver into a club race A-main.

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

If anything, get spare parts before considering swaybars.

Arms, knuckles, hubs.

You don't even have the car yet, so do some due diligence and see what kind of tire they run in Montreal and stock up on this tire and the available/preferred traction compound.

If it's anything like Western Canada, it's either a Sorex, Sweep, or Gravity tire that people prefer to use.

If you get the car and notice you are breaking parts regularly, i would then recommend that you get a front diff with 200K before slapping a pair of swaybars on. Diffs absorb shock a lot better than touring cars that either push into turns or over-rotate out of turns (this is what swaybars will do to your touring car).

This is also why a 4.2 FDR (or higher) is recommended. Learning to control a slower car is always more productive than smashing a really fast car and burning up a motor.

Btw: there is a hudy setup station in the canada buy/sell for $40. It's a good idea to have one of these too.

alex_blais

Thanks for all the help. I may sound like a real noob but I am not afraid of speed as I raced 1/8 nitro as a kid and started again 2 years ago...Yeah I'm almost 40!!!!!!!!!!!!

And lots of aiplane stuff. Over 25 of them

All the rules to the club I plan to go are here: http://www.circuitctsh.com/reglements.php#sec2
Tires are sweep 28 only or something

Here is a vid of the track: [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDOsL_k-F8k[/url