Kaputttroniker

Why donīt you like these shocks? If you try to explain the problem, I am sure people here can help you. I found, that the shocks are great, but you have to make sure everything else on the chassi is working right, in order to have the shocks work well, too. If the shocks arenīt working right, there might be a problem with the rod ends (make sure they move freely) or the lower suspension arms (use a drill and make the hole a little wider for the hinge pins),......bent hinge pins also are often the reason, why my shocks werenīt doing, what they are supposed to do.

TraumaChaser

What strength servo in oz do you guys recommend for for a 3.0e? I'd love to get a KO PROPO but can't rationalize spending that right now after buying the buggy and tekin rx8 gen 2/t8 1900 combo and spectrum receiver. I have a feeling I'll probably throw a savox 1258 or 1256tg in it but it will be temporary as I just want to get racing. I'm going through withdrawal.

fifi

Using the spindle carrier from the truggy(tlr2444016), how do you place the washers ?

buzz2

iTrader: (1)

Shim it in the rear so the carrier is forward its like 2mm spacer, I just did it, it took steering out though

fifi

Thanks

Vinny Cancilla

iTrader: (2)

What setup seems to work best for outdoor medium to low/medium bite.

waffleNchicken

iTrader: (3)

I have good luck w the Drake outdoor setup. It's pretty easy to find w Google.

I also run the overdrive gear in the front. Def helped the car feel like the power was put down more evenly.... A must (IMO) on a low-med bite track.

spookie

iTrader: (25)

I use the JConcepts Illusion on my 2.0 e buggy. The battery area is a smidgen taller than the original Losi ducted body. Plus I dremeled the louvers open on each side for a bit of air to flow thru. This body was also designed by one of the Losi Team drivers, can't remember who Drake? , for the flat top surface for jumping stability, ie air flow. Designed to help drive down the backside of a jump, nose down, wing up. I run dual 5,000mah laid on edge and with proper wire placement it fits great. I run the wires alongside the outer battery strapped in with the battery straps.

donny939

I have a 3.0e roller. I need all electronics. Any input would be appreciated. I'm leaning towards an SMC motor, as I already have that in my 10th scale n it flys. But I'm not sure about esc. I noticed the sensor less are cheaper. I have never ran sensor less. Any thoughts? I know how they work but what are your pros and cons and what are most of you running as far as esc and are u running sensor less vs sensor

waffleNchicken

iTrader: (3)

You can't go wrong w Tekin..... We only run sensored in our stuff. It just feels better than non sensored...

xyzracer

iTrader: (5)

Sensored motors and speed controls have much better low rpm feel and response, once on the top end it doesnt really matter (tekin's actually switch to sensorless once in high rpm i believe) that being said, i run sensored tekin stuff now in mine and it works flawlessly but did run a sensorless hobby wing pro 120A and it felt smoother than when running my rx8 sensorless with the same motor (castle 3800) but once i got a sensored tekin motor it felt even better. Hope this helps

bigdaddyquale

iTrader: (13)

I have some good friends running the smc motors with great success! I love the smc batteries, they're great. I have a 2 year old hobbywing esc still running great with a 1900 tekin. My son drives that now and I have a RX8 with a tekin motor. good luck

moto775

iTrader: (17)

Has anyone tried some of the new parts from the 8ight 4.0 on their 8ight-E 3.0?

I've been thinking about at least trying the new caps.

waffleNchicken

iTrader: (3)

We have a local who has the 3.0e, and has recently installed 4.0 goodies front and rear. I believe he put the entire assembly from diff case up, on each end of the car.

I'm planning on checking it out next time I see him.... May have to try doing the same on my 3.0

Rich D

iTrader: (1)

I have been running the 4.0 caps, they're awesome, runnin emulsion - u also need the shock standoffs and plastic inserts that go in the hole in the top of the shock cap for them to fit over the standoffs