jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Will have to investigate. Electrons work really well on my 22-4, but sucked on 22 2.0, and really sucked on the 22SCT 2.0. Don't know what that's about. Using AKA or stock foams?

dynamiteracer

He prefers the stiffer black foams for indoor racing. Outdoors the blue stock foam work good.

JASON671

iTrader: (54)

trying to finish my build and now on the rear diff. I shimmed it per the manual and it feels pretty tight, its recommended in the manual, but do you guys run it like this until it breaks in? will it break in or damage it? thanks

Brian Miskolczi

iTrader: (162)

Jason- You want it to be notchy but not locked up. Run it and if it continues to feel tight take one shim off and try it again.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Mine was notchy like that until 2 packs in, then was fine.

KOULLIT

iTrader: (1)

Hi JASON671,

This is about the LOSA3501 shims.
Why you will not have to use them, and why you may not use them ?

At the beginning, I made the build with many new center diff spurs in stock and was searching for the right ratio. Because I have an other new 8ight for parts, I made different center diff builds. So I don't remember exactly which spur I really used : I have seen some new spurs been like "bad molded"...
But those plastic spurs were not really new, I forgot that I already build them on a center diff, and changed because of different ratios (43,44,45).
In fact, there were no problem with the spurs, but with the LOSA3501 shims.
It's true that the diff is tight with the LOSA3501 shims, but because it was my first Losi, and because I don't really love the idea of a sun directly on an "o-ring", I made the builds with the shims.
It's an error, because the diff is to tight, and because you will see this happened with a plastic spur :



Hope you will understand, because of my poor English !
Bye !

MrTANKem

After all the talking I see about the forward battery mod. I would like to try and see if it is something that will make my buggy better for me. I can find pictures of the finished project, but nothing in depth of what all is needed to do it. Is it as simple as just taping a couple more holes into the chassis? lol, I have the craftsmanship skills to complete it, its just the vision of everything that needs done is what I am lacking...

Any links or tips will be helpful.

Thanks!

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Wow, that mogul section looked nasty... Not a power through 10th scale type like we deal with here... Lol

izquick

Woot buggy is built stoked to play with it ... oh wait i still have to get the electronics . So what to get hmmmmm. so many options ... wait i know

HELP please any suggestions would be nice, i know tekin is the go to system but i don't really want to spend that kind of money. I'm speed and quality without overdrafting my account ... what can i get ???

aarnett

Mr tandem . I just did a forward battery mod was very easy. With my mod just got a tap and drill bit for the same size as the screws that were used on the battery tray and removed some spots on tray to let it fit up front and still use some of the hole already there and drilled and taped were there wasn't. The tray will need a new spot cut was were the diff will be and the front inner screw mount removed some to let it set against the chase brase

aarnett

Mr tandem. Also you will probably need a different body are remove the drop on the stock body for battery to work.. are go and get a leadfingerrc.com body. The Tap was a Irwin #36
.1065
2.71

JASON671

iTrader: (54)

with the stock layout, esc in the front, is the sensor wire that comes with the rx8 too short? would I have to get a longer one?

dynamiteracer

If your looking for a good reliable inexpensive system don't hesitate to get the Dynamite product.

muggy427

Yes you will need a longer sensor wire

rotachoc

Little late but this is what I'm running in my Losi 8ight-e 3.0 Mamba + 2200KV for just bashing around up & down the street I use 19t pinion 43spur on 4s
if Im doing speed runs I use 22-25t pinion 43spur on 6s