Schumacher Mi5
#1351
I believe the factory part numbers are U4339 for the top deck end and U4282 for the top deck spacer...
#1352
Tech Regular
Anyone who can link to the 0.3mm shims ore x-rings to use, when the shocks leaks like crazy.
I have built some shocks in the past, but these I can't get to stop leaking.
Links would be appriciated.
I have built some shocks in the past, but these I can't get to stop leaking.
Links would be appriciated.
#1353
Tech Regular
Anyone know what size springs these take? need to stiffen slightly than kit springs
@ Shock Tower, strange yours are leaking? mine are not, only time they have leaked slightly is from where the cap that covers up the o ring etc at the bottom has un done itself a little.
@ Shock Tower, strange yours are leaking? mine are not, only time they have leaked slightly is from where the cap that covers up the o ring etc at the bottom has un done itself a little.
#1354
Schumacher RED
#1355
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53585-s...?cPath=421_520
and have ended up with these:
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-3mm-...cs_p_1208.html
They are slightly larger than the stock and don't require the shimming. Don't seem to bind either.. no leaks so far. Hope it helps ..
#1356
From Martin's blog:
"When assembling the shocks, I like to add a 0.3mm shim (4mm inner diameter) to the bottom shockshaft guidance. This ensures, that the oring is slightly compressed and seales properly. Very important when running little rebound, as otherwise you suck in a lot of air. And again: air ain’t good in dampers"
-Mike
#1357
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Finished building my shocks up last night, and actually ended up trying something out that feels very nice on the bench, and that was removing te plastic spacer, and putting 2x 3mm o-rings (not x-rings) in the bottom of each shock, along with 0.4mm worth of spacers (I just used 2x 0.2x4 shims, either side of the o-rings). Very smooth action, and doubt wry muh they will leak... And also liberally coated the rings with green slime, which also always seems to help too.
#1358
Those are 3mm ID. You don't want those. They could damage and bind the shock shaft, and the OD might actually be too small to actually improve sealing.
From Martin's blog:
"When assembling the shocks, I like to add a 0.3mm shim (4mm inner diameter) to the bottom shockshaft guidance. This ensures, that the oring is slightly compressed and seales properly. Very important when running little rebound, as otherwise you suck in a lot of air. And again: air ain’t good in dampers"
-Mike
From Martin's blog:
"When assembling the shocks, I like to add a 0.3mm shim (4mm inner diameter) to the bottom shockshaft guidance. This ensures, that the oring is slightly compressed and seales properly. Very important when running little rebound, as otherwise you suck in a lot of air. And again: air ain’t good in dampers"
-Mike
#1359
Tech Champion
iTrader: (165)
My Mi5 is not built and radio gear installed. I will need a new spur as the kit stock is 48P and I prefer 64P gears.
Pros
- the spur holder is trick and it will be a breeze to change a spurs.
- neat body posts will make for a clean body exterior
- diff oil, shock oil, black grease (lots) and Loctite included in the box
- parts that need to be glued into the chassis and arms are done at the factory
Cons
- alloy body post holders but only plastic servo mounts
- purple wheel hexes
- wheel hexes use a smaller pin that anything else I've run
- no servo saver included
- the left vertical upper deck blocks access to the pinion set screw
I had one threaded shock collar refuse to thread onto the shock body due to a defect. The manual could be better and Tamiya are still the best I've seen.
Pros
- the spur holder is trick and it will be a breeze to change a spurs.
- neat body posts will make for a clean body exterior
- diff oil, shock oil, black grease (lots) and Loctite included in the box
- parts that need to be glued into the chassis and arms are done at the factory
Cons
- alloy body post holders but only plastic servo mounts
- purple wheel hexes
- wheel hexes use a smaller pin that anything else I've run
- no servo saver included
- the left vertical upper deck blocks access to the pinion set screw
I had one threaded shock collar refuse to thread onto the shock body due to a defect. The manual could be better and Tamiya are still the best I've seen.
Last edited by SteveM; 09-17-2013 at 05:30 AM.
#1360
Tech Regular
My Mi5 is not built and radio gear installed. I will need a new spur as the kit stock is 48P and I prefer 64P gears.
Pros
- the spur holder is trick and it will be a breeze to change a spurs.
- neat body posts will make for a clean body exterior
- diff oil, shock oil, black grease (lots) and Loctite included in the box
- parts that need to be glued into the chassis and arms are done at the factory
Cons
- alloy body post holders but only plastic servo mounts
- purple wheel hexes
- wheel hexes use a smaller pin that anything else I've run
- no servo saver included
- the left vertical upper deck blocks access to the pinion set screw
I had one threaded shock collar refuse to thread onto the shock body due to a defect. The manual could be better and Tamiya are still the best I've seen.
Pros
- the spur holder is trick and it will be a breeze to change a spurs.
- neat body posts will make for a clean body exterior
- diff oil, shock oil, black grease (lots) and Loctite included in the box
- parts that need to be glued into the chassis and arms are done at the factory
Cons
- alloy body post holders but only plastic servo mounts
- purple wheel hexes
- wheel hexes use a smaller pin that anything else I've run
- no servo saver included
- the left vertical upper deck blocks access to the pinion set screw
I had one threaded shock collar refuse to thread onto the shock body due to a defect. The manual could be better and Tamiya are still the best I've seen.
I am glad it includes plastic servo horns, one impact that would of ruined my savox servo instead stripped the servo horn, a servo saver wouldnt even of saved my servo ..so to that i think schumacher got it right.
pinion set screw is easy to get too depends on how you mount the pinion and where you need it, i struggle a bit when im running 35-36+ pinions but loosening off the brace to allow more flex on the top deck means i can get to the pinion far easier.
Raced my mi5 today indoors, the car is just..so breezy to drive, very forgiving and very quick in the right hands. But does need some knowledge on setup to get the best out of it, other wise its a bit of a handful as i noticed from other peoples mi5's today.
#1362
Tech Champion
iTrader: (165)
I am glad it includes plastic servo horns, one impact that would of ruined my savox servo instead stripped the servo horn, a servo saver wouldnt even of saved my servo ..so to that i think schumacher got it right.
pinion set screw is easy to get too depends on how you mount the pinion and where you need it, i struggle a bit when im running 35-36+ pinions but loosening off the brace to allow more flex on the top deck means i can get to the pinion far easier.
Raced my mi5 today indoors, the car is just..so breezy to drive, very forgiving and very quick in the right hands. But does need some knowledge on setup to get the best out of it, other wise its a bit of a handful as i noticed from other peoples mi5's today.
pinion set screw is easy to get too depends on how you mount the pinion and where you need it, i struggle a bit when im running 35-36+ pinions but loosening off the brace to allow more flex on the top deck means i can get to the pinion far easier.
Raced my mi5 today indoors, the car is just..so breezy to drive, very forgiving and very quick in the right hands. But does need some knowledge on setup to get the best out of it, other wise its a bit of a handful as i noticed from other peoples mi5's today.
#1363
Tech Regular
and how is yours blocked by the upper brace? mine certainly isnt
#1365
Tech Regular