Speed Passion F1 car - The SP1
#946
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Set some level of preload intially (kit setting).
Load the car, wheels and tires on, level surface.
Check the droop. There will either be space you can see on the king pin and/or a distance you can lift the nose before the tires leave the bench.
Measure ride height Vs. the point where the tires leave the surface and you will have the total droop.
If too much droop, increase preload and check droop again.
***Make sure both front tires are leaving the surface at the same time when you are happy with the setting. The old 1:12 scale guys used to put pennies on each tire, then lift dead center. If they didn't fall off at the same time, they adjusted again.
Now shim ride for ride height. Don't use the suspension to adjust ride height!
#947
Tech Adept
Hi,
Could you let me know what shells fit please ie tamiya,
Thank you,
Mark
Could you let me know what shells fit please ie tamiya,
Thank you,
Mark
#949
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Preload is used for setting droop in this case. Too much preload can limit droop or remove it all together. The softer the front spring, the more preload you can use. With the stock front spring, there is a just a touch of preload on my car. What ends up as about .5 to .75 mm droop is what the weight of the car compresses the spring after setting preload with no weight on the springs.
Set some level of preload intially (kit setting).
Load the car, wheels and tires on, level surface.
Check the droop. There will either be space you can see on the king pin and/or a distance you can lift the nose before the tires leave the bench.
Measure ride height Vs. the point where the tires leave the surface and you will have the total droop.
If too much droop, increase preload and check droop again.
***Make sure both front tires are leaving the surface at the same time when you are happy with the setting. The old 1:12 scale guys used to put pennies on each tire, then lift dead center. If they didn't fall off at the same time, they adjusted again.
Now shim ride for ride height. Don't use the suspension to adjust ride height!
Set some level of preload intially (kit setting).
Load the car, wheels and tires on, level surface.
Check the droop. There will either be space you can see on the king pin and/or a distance you can lift the nose before the tires leave the bench.
Measure ride height Vs. the point where the tires leave the surface and you will have the total droop.
If too much droop, increase preload and check droop again.
***Make sure both front tires are leaving the surface at the same time when you are happy with the setting. The old 1:12 scale guys used to put pennies on each tire, then lift dead center. If they didn't fall off at the same time, they adjusted again.
Now shim ride for ride height. Don't use the suspension to adjust ride height!
#952
where can i find setup sheet from last ETS Rd for SP1? also interested in gearing used on ETS? thinking of buying SP1 roller...
also looking for web shops with parts...
also looking for web shops with parts...
Last edited by roger999; 02-08-2014 at 05:02 AM.
#953
Tech Elite
iTrader: (70)
Well since I'm losing the only track within 2 hrs and the only onroad track in the state I'm selling my brand new SP-1
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...hobbywing.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...hobbywing.html
#954
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
The SP-1 behaved better last night, this was with 30K CRC grease in the side damper and 35 wt oil with a 3.0 Spec-R spring for the top shock. Still, though, the car does't maintain corner speed. It might be my driving, though, so next time I'm going to have to pressure one of our faster F1 guys to test drive it for me. I'm looking at you, Mark
#955
Tech Rookie
The SP-1 behaved better last night, this was with 30K CRC grease in the side damper and 35 wt oil with a 3.0 Spec-R spring for the top shock. Still, though, the car does't maintain corner speed. It might be my driving, though, so next time I'm going to have to pressure one of our faster F1 guys to test drive it for me. I'm looking at you, Mark
#956
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
It seems like you center spring is way too hard. I am still working on my setup but talking to some factory SP drivers they recommend run softer rear spring..... something like 2.4-2.5 to get more rear grip. Soft tamiya front spring, hard side spring. Tried this setup with rubber on out door track. This setup should give you more rear traction for higher corner speed. If you find the rear a bit loose you can try softer side spring.
#958
what is the difference, setup wise, between the shims under the arms and under the plate?
I have seen setups with 4mm under the arms and 1mm under the plate and 3mm under arms and 2mm under plate. both are 5mm total but the shims are in a different place, maybe changing roll center??
I have seen setups with 4mm under the arms and 1mm under the plate and 3mm under arms and 2mm under plate. both are 5mm total but the shims are in a different place, maybe changing roll center??
#959
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
what is the difference, setup wise, between the shims under the arms and under the plate?
I have seen setups with 4mm under the arms and 1mm under the plate and 3mm under arms and 2mm under plate. both are 5mm total but the shims are in a different place, maybe changing roll center??
I have seen setups with 4mm under the arms and 1mm under the plate and 3mm under arms and 2mm under plate. both are 5mm total but the shims are in a different place, maybe changing roll center??
#960
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
If you go under the plate, you don't have to shim the steering posts separately. If you go under the arms you will get more downward tilt toward the servo if you don't shim the steering posts. It would make the most sense to shim under the plate to get it close to ride height, then shim under the arm for small adjustments of 1 mm or less. I have mine under the arms and have shimmed my steering posts to get my turnbuckles more parallel. Either way, once you have it set, it will probably never change much for adjustment.