Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road
Will a clutch shim kit fix this problem? >

Will a clutch shim kit fix this problem?

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Will a clutch shim kit fix this problem?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-03-2013, 07:34 PM
  #1  
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 75
Default Will a clutch shim kit fix this problem?

I replaced the clutch on my Force .28 from the factory ofna clutch to a JLR clutch which has a smaller flywheel and aluminum shoes. When I put the clutch bell back on I get almost 2mm of play if I move the bell housing in and out. To me this sounds like too much, my LX2 has very little play in it. It feels like it needs another 2 washers totalling 4.

Is this the purpose of a clutch shim kit? Or is there something else wrong that I need to address?

Thanks,
Greg
GregUnd is offline  
Old 03-03-2013, 09:11 PM
  #2  
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
 
azeroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Da Burbs
Posts: 1,130
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

yes that is why they offer the shim kit
azeroth is offline  
Old 03-03-2013, 09:12 PM
  #3  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
 
CurveTracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Suburban Chicago
Posts: 506
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Yes, that is what clutch shims are used for. Get the endplay down to the .1 to .2 mm range.
CurveTracer is offline  
Old 03-08-2013, 05:29 PM
  #4  
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 75
Default

Originally Posted by CurveTracer
Yes, that is what clutch shims are used for. Get the endplay down to the .1 to .2 mm range.
So I shimmed the bell housing out enough to get this amount of play, but the back of the clutch shoes are starting to show about .5mm...... It's like the crank shaft needs to be shorter or something.

How can I fix this? Can I bring the flywheel out more somehow??
GregUnd is offline  
Old 03-08-2013, 06:18 PM
  #5  
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
 
azeroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Da Burbs
Posts: 1,130
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

you can move some of those shims to the outside to get your end play they don't always go to the inside
azeroth is offline  
Old 03-08-2013, 08:27 PM
  #6  
Tech Initiate
 
doctormtx5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 37
Default

is the flywheel is a different size try using different engine cone (collet)
doctormtx5 is offline  
Old 03-08-2013, 08:33 PM
  #7  
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 75
Default

Originally Posted by doctormtx5
is the flywheel is a different size try using different engine cone (collet)
It is smaller in diameter, stock is 38mm and this one is 32mm. I think I used the collet that came with the new flywheel, maybe I should try my stock one.
GregUnd is offline  
Old 03-09-2013, 12:12 PM
  #8  
Tech Addict
 
scary_jerry's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 565
Smile

Originally Posted by GregUnd
It is smaller in diameter, stock is 38mm and this one is 32mm. I think I used the collet that came with the new flywheel, maybe I should try my stock one.
Hopefully you'll have enough 'reach' for the starter box wheel.......that 32mm is smaller than I would try on my GT8/IGT. I just had to replace the wheels on my starter boxes because after 4 seasons they were too short of getting the flywheel contact needed for my 34mm flywheels. (I chamfer the chassis pan to let the wheel get closer to the flywheel)

An 'extreme' fix for that clutch shim problem is to dremmel off the length of crank extension in excess of the threads and install the Kyosho SG crank adapter used on the early kyosho GT motor that had a short shaft. I've tried it a couple times on motors that didn't want to cooperate with an easy engine swap. It works well but not for the 'faint of heart' or those not gifted in 'Dremmelology'.

I made a template that tells me where the clutch bell needs to end up in relation to the closest engine mount bolt and I do repeated 'fittings' to get the clutch and gear mesh happy. You are authorized a 'celebration' once you get that shimmed just right.........
scary_jerry is offline  
Old 03-09-2013, 07:15 PM
  #9  
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 75
Default

Originally Posted by scary_jerry
Hopefully you'll have enough 'reach' for the starter box wheel.......that 32mm is smaller than I would try on my GT8/IGT. I just had to replace the wheels on my starter boxes because after 4 seasons they were too short of getting the flywheel contact needed for my 34mm flywheels. (I chamfer the chassis pan to let the wheel get closer to the flywheel)

An 'extreme' fix for that clutch shim problem is to dremmel off the length of crank extension in excess of the threads and install the Kyosho SG crank adapter used on the early kyosho GT motor that had a short shaft. I've tried it a couple times on motors that didn't want to cooperate with an easy engine swap. It works well but not for the 'faint of heart' or those not gifted in 'Dremmelology'.

I made a template that tells me where the clutch bell needs to end up in relation to the closest engine mount bolt and I do repeated 'fittings' to get the clutch and gear mesh happy. You are authorized a 'celebration' once you get that shimmed just right.........
Ive come to the conclusion that this clutch just isn't for engine.... I can shim it out but I don't like how far i have to shim it out. It gave me justification to buy a new engine and clutch.... Went with a Werks B6 and a werks heavy clutch.

Problem solved.
GregUnd is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.